2 post car lift?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2 post car lift?
I'm thinking of purchacing a 2 post lift for maintainance of my cars. Will the 2 post lifts, lift the C-5, in a non damaging and safe manner. There are so many different brands and variations, I'm trying to make sure I buy one that will best fit the C-5, being so low, and the way the body wraps up under the car. Thanks
#2
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used a 2 post lift on my C5. No damage but its not as easy as driving onto a four post and lifting the car. I had to drive the C5 onto ramps to clear the 2 post arms. Then you have to match up the arms w/your lifting pucks. To do this you need two people, one drives the car back & forward onto the home made wooden ramps and the other tells you to stop, go back, come forward, etc etc. Then when you get the C5 into the air you have to support the rear w/a tall jack stand. Did not the C5 rocks back & forward, up & down on the lift. Very scary. Your better off w/a 4 post.
#3
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
Posts: 18,762
Received 4,551 Likes
on
2,160 Posts
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C8 of the Year Finalist Unmodified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C1 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2017 Corvette of the Year Finalist
2016 C2 of Year
2015 C3 of Year Finalist
I also prefer the 4 post for the C5. Alot easier for day to day use as well as storage. If you prefer the 2 post, just make sure your cement floor is at least 5 or 6 inches thick or it will be unsafe.
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Oklahoma City OK
Posts: 58,259
Received 1,675 Likes
on
1,298 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
A friend of mine has one and it's very easy to use. It wouldn't damage a car if you use it right.
#5
Pro
i am awaiting delivery of my first C5 should be here this week,i have a 2 post lift and want to know what i need to do to lift my car with out harming it,don't want to find out the hard way i did somthing wrong,the lift arms have adjustable pads that rise about 3-4 inches above the lift arm,will this be enough to clear the body? or will i still need to use the pucks,any insight from the guys that know?
#6
Lepus-temperamentalus
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've been going back and forth between the 4 post and 2 post. Storage is not an issue, my slab is thick enough to support either. The down side of the 4 post for myself is that if I need to remove the wheels while a car is lifted, I would have to go though another process to lift the front or rear tires while on the 4 post. Yet i don't want to go though what Jims79 explained either. Maybe 4 post is more practicle. Thanks All
#8
Le Mans Master
Most of the four post drive on's have jacking trays that are included or optional. I got one with my Backyard Buddy and the thing is heavy and solid,and does help with jacking or placement of jack stands. My only experience with two posters are commercial shop lifts,,and if home unites are the same,, the lifting arms swing out of the way to drive through,,and adjust for positioning to you lift points,,,and should NOT be a problem. In a worst case scenario you would have to position 4 pieces of 2X12 to drive up on to add enough clearance to position the arms. I'm quite happy with my BB,,,but I do see times when a 2 poster would be handy as well!! Enjoy whatever you get!!
#9
Advanced
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Leduc Alberta
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a Directlift 2 post car hoist in my 40x80 homebased shop and it works fine. Some good advise from others though, make sure your floor is at least 5-6" thick for one. A four post is great but once again hard to drive on to since corvettes are so low.
I had my vette up in the air once already with the 2 post and no you don't need two people. I did it myself, I used some hockey pucks on the pads for the lift points but I am going to machine some proper pads once I bring my lathe to my new shop. Just to let you know the Direct Lift arms are low profile, I paid $2699 here in Alberta and there ads can be seen in most hot rod magazines. Only thing I don't like about mine is the lock releases are manual but for the price I couldn't really complain. Nice this the lift pucks are not huge like my ALM 2 post at my other shop. The lift also comes with a book that shows all the lift points on over a 100 cars at least.
Just thought I would let you know my experience with the 2 post, here's a picture of my lift.
I had my vette up in the air once already with the 2 post and no you don't need two people. I did it myself, I used some hockey pucks on the pads for the lift points but I am going to machine some proper pads once I bring my lathe to my new shop. Just to let you know the Direct Lift arms are low profile, I paid $2699 here in Alberta and there ads can be seen in most hot rod magazines. Only thing I don't like about mine is the lock releases are manual but for the price I couldn't really complain. Nice this the lift pucks are not huge like my ALM 2 post at my other shop. The lift also comes with a book that shows all the lift points on over a 100 cars at least.
Just thought I would let you know my experience with the 2 post, here's a picture of my lift.
Last edited by SNOTRKT; 01-10-2010 at 11:41 AM.
#11
Race Director
The concrete does not have to be 5-6" thick. BEND PAK recommends 3 1/2" to 4" of fully cured concrete unless the lift will be supporting the heaviest of commercial vehicles (12k, 15k, 18k# lifts), then 5-6" is recommended.
For a home shop with typical cars/trucks/SUV and a 7k-9k# two post lift, 3 1/2" to 4" of 3,000 psi if just fine.
http://www.bendpak.com/frequently-asked-questions/ Scroll down towards the bottom with recommendations according to lift style/lifting weight.
Another option is that the concrete can be saw cut and excavated beneath where the two post uprights will be bolted down. Use 3,000 psi concrete and reinforcing rebar and allow it to fully cure.
Measure twice (or more) and cut once with lots of thought if you do this. All of my shops have had two 24-36" square footers/rebar poured with the slabs whether I used a two post or four post lift. It's not that expensive to do during new construction, a little more labor intensive later.
I've had one two post (FORWARD MANUFACTURING) and two four post lifts (SUPERLIFT and BEND PAK) in twelve years. Both styles have their advantages and disadvantages. I went back and forth when we built our new home/shop about which type of lift I would chose this time.
The two post requires more effort on your knees to position the arms (consider also symmetric or asymmetric arms) under a regular height perimeter type frame. When I considered that I'd be lifting both my Z16, and perimeter type frames, the four post became the best option. I also didn't want to be using wood ramps to drive the Corvette up on.
With a jack bridge, bottle jack and tripod jack, I can do anything beneath a four post lift that I could with a two post. And all I have to do is drive the car up onto the runways and lift them...
For a home shop with typical cars/trucks/SUV and a 7k-9k# two post lift, 3 1/2" to 4" of 3,000 psi if just fine.
http://www.bendpak.com/frequently-asked-questions/ Scroll down towards the bottom with recommendations according to lift style/lifting weight.
Another option is that the concrete can be saw cut and excavated beneath where the two post uprights will be bolted down. Use 3,000 psi concrete and reinforcing rebar and allow it to fully cure.
Measure twice (or more) and cut once with lots of thought if you do this. All of my shops have had two 24-36" square footers/rebar poured with the slabs whether I used a two post or four post lift. It's not that expensive to do during new construction, a little more labor intensive later.
I've had one two post (FORWARD MANUFACTURING) and two four post lifts (SUPERLIFT and BEND PAK) in twelve years. Both styles have their advantages and disadvantages. I went back and forth when we built our new home/shop about which type of lift I would chose this time.
The two post requires more effort on your knees to position the arms (consider also symmetric or asymmetric arms) under a regular height perimeter type frame. When I considered that I'd be lifting both my Z16, and perimeter type frames, the four post became the best option. I also didn't want to be using wood ramps to drive the Corvette up on.
With a jack bridge, bottle jack and tripod jack, I can do anything beneath a four post lift that I could with a two post. And all I have to do is drive the car up onto the runways and lift them...
Last edited by hotwheels57; 01-11-2010 at 06:11 PM.
#12
Lepus-temperamentalus
Most of the four post drive on's have jacking trays that are included or optional. I got one with my Backyard Buddy and the thing is heavy and solid,and does help with jacking or placement of jack stands. My only experience with two posters are commercial shop lifts,,and if home unites are the same,, the lifting arms swing out of the way to drive through,,and adjust for positioning to you lift points,,,and should NOT be a problem. In a worst case scenario you would have to position 4 pieces of 2X12 to drive up on to add enough clearance to position the arms. I'm quite happy with my BB,,,but I do see times when a 2 poster would be handy as well!! Enjoy whatever you get!!
#15
Advanced
Member Since: Dec 2009
Location: Leduc Alberta
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A 4 post is a pain in the a$$ if you want to change tires unless you get the jack. I sold my used 4 post before building my new shop for only $400 and only one guy called. I use my 2 post for more then a usual service, I take bodies off frames, I service my tractor, heck I have even lifted my skidoo to check the track. It's a decission you will have to make as to if you just want it to lift your car so you can park something under it or do an oil change. Once again I'll say it again the 4 post takes up alot of room.
#16
Le Mans Master
A 4 post is a pain in the a$$ if you want to change tires unless you get the jack. I sold my used 4 post before building my new shop for only $400 and only one guy called. I use my 2 post for more then a usual service, I take bodies off frames, I service my tractor, heck I have even lifted my skidoo to check the track. It's a decission you will have to make as to if you just want it to lift your car so you can park something under it or do an oil change. Once again I'll say it again the 4 post takes up alot of room.
#17
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2004
Location: Oklahoma City OK
Posts: 58,259
Received 1,675 Likes
on
1,298 Posts
C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
#18
CF "Young" Senior Member
I purchased a Rotary lift. I initially was worried when, in order to lift it, the rear arms actually set in quite a ways (I'm using custom made pucks, so no resting on the body). I talked to a friend who owns a shop and works on 'vettes quite frequently, and he said that's how they lift them as well.
So far I've done a tunnel plate and x-pipe install, and an oil change isn't far off. It's also quite handy for getting the wheels off and cleaning them thoroughly after washing the rest of the car.
In order to get the car on my lift, I drive forward into place between the posts, get out, and use a jack under the rear axle pumpkin to raise the car up high enough so that the lift's front arms clear. Then I just set it back down on the rear arms, raise the car up a foot, shake it to make sure it's solid, and up it goes.
#19
Safety Car
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i am awaiting delivery of my first C5 should be here this week,i have a 2 post lift and want to know what i need to do to lift my car with out harming it,don't want to find out the hard way i did somthing wrong,the lift arms have adjustable pads that rise about 3-4 inches above the lift arm,will this be enough to clear the body? or will i still need to use the pucks,any insight from the guys that know?
#20
Lepus-temperamentalus
I purchased a Rotary lift. I initially was worried when, in order to lift it, the rear arms actually set in quite a ways (I'm using custom made pucks, so no resting on the body). I talked to a friend who owns a shop and works on 'vettes quite frequently, and he said that's how they lift them as well.
So far I've done a tunnel plate and x-pipe install, and an oil change isn't far off. It's also quite handy for getting the wheels off and cleaning them thoroughly after washing the rest of the car.
In order to get the car on my lift, I drive forward into place between the posts, get out, and use a jack under the rear axle pumpkin to raise the car up high enough so that the lift's front arms clear. Then I just set it back down on the rear arms, raise the car up a foot, shake it to make sure it's solid, and up it goes.