JMc

I don't know if this has already been covered - I ran a search and found nothing - so forgive me if I am duplicating efforts here, but after having suffered the third failure of an SMT switchback LED in less than a year, I've finally gotten some answers from illumination.com

The first set I had were the 20 stack LED's. They worked great for awhile, then either the white or amber function would cease to function, mysteriously.

So when the second one failed in less than six months, I ordered the 48 LED tower, and liked how it fit easier into the housing. Well, after having to jump my battery the other day, I noticed that the DRL on one side was out ($H@T!!!!)

I just bought these ****'s in October, so I wrote a note to autolumination to see if they were still under warranty. They are not. But they wrote back and said "are you using load levelers"? My reaction: "WTF"? You mean the hyperflass bypass harness? Nope.

According to autolumination:


There are several causes of voltage related failures on leds. Some vehicles chronically cause premature led failures. This is normally related to excess voltage, voltage spikes, high levels of AC current being generated from the alternator, or excessive ambient heat. While glass bulbs are slow to react to rapid surges, leds can be destroyed in milliseconds from a sudden spike or chronic high voltage, or excessive AC current from an alternator that has one or more burned out diodes. Additionally, led bulbs should only be used in areas where the ambient temperature is less than 150F.

If the bulbs are being used in DRL positions, especially GM DRL's, we highly recommend using only our patented 30 led SMT, 20 led tower II or 48 led SMT bulbs in combination with an led protector. If these precautions are not taken, the leds will fail prematurely in most DRL applications.

The GM vehicle DRLs, are problematic. All the truck DRLs have a known circuitry issue with them and the use of leds has to be done exactly right to allow them to hold up.

We are seeing those same issues with the high performance Vettes.

Sounds like in your case it was the charging of the battery that did them in.

Leds cannot tolerate voltage over 14.5 volts. They are destroyed literally in a nanosecond.

The led protectors will increase the voltage they can tolerate.

If the bulbs are being used in DRL positions, especially GM DRL's, we highly recommend using only our patented 30 led SMT, 20 led tower II or 48 led SMT bulbs in combination with an led protector. If these precautions are not taken, the leds will fail prematurely in most DRL applications.

If the bulbs are being used in gauges with a dimmer, always set the dimmer to 80% or less. This minor adjustment will make the leds last ten times as long in some vehicles with chronic voltage issues.

If the bulbs are being used in an application with no dimmer, we have a new led protector that can be spliced into the + wire to protect against minor voltage surges. These work great in vehicles that have high voltage, or are prone to voltage surges. They can also help protect the leds from:

1. Switching on the ignition & starting the engine.

2. Changing or disconnecting the battery.

3. Charging the battery with an auxiliary battery charger, or revving the engine hard with a weak or dead battery.

4. Using jumper cables.

These are +$1.99 each, and can be purchased from the Load Equalizer page here :

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm




So I've ordered another 48 LED stack and a pair of "load protectors" to splice in. I'm hoping this will FINALLY solve the short life span of these otherwise bitchen lights.

I also told the representative that it would be REAL NICE if they posted a disclaimer about the DELICATE nature of these things and the requirement for load levelers at the point of purchase to prevent poor SOB's like me from having to buy NEW BULBS when they fail for reasons that are now WELL KNOWN to autoluminations. Let's see if they make any changes to their web site. Don't hold your breath.

UPDATE: You can disregard all this crap. Read my last posts near the end of this thread for the straight dope, on a couple of real dopes. Me, for getting suckered, and the person I dealt with at Superilluminations/Autoilluminations, for being a hustler and a total jackass.

Patches

Excellent info. Thanks for bringing this to the forum's attention. I have been considering the switch-over for some time.

SSTG

Is this just for DRL's? Or does it also effect the halo tails?

JW Motorsports

They don't offer a warranty?

Just to clear up any confusion for those that have bought from us or thinking about it we do not use the same bulbs as they do.

Ours have been reliable bulbs. We cover them with a 1 year warranty as well if a bulb did happen to go out.

JW Motorsports

Halo tails don't have that problem.

SSTG

I just pm'd you about this. LOL. That's why I bought from you.

MSG C5

If you have a hyperflash bypass harness, does that do the same thing as the load protectors? Also questioning whether the Halo LEDs are OK or if this is just the corner lamps. I regularly use a battery tender so I don't want that to cause any problems.

I have not heard about any issues with the Halo LEDs.

JMc

I thought that they had a patent on these bulbs. Well, if you sell different ones that aren't susceptible to voltage spikes, then terrific.

And just as the header implies, this is with respect to the LED switchbacks for the front corners ONLY. This has nothing to do with HALO LED tail lights. Period. They seem to be quite hardy in comparison.

But for anyone purchasing through autoilluminations, there you go. I guess their warranty is 90 days and I just passed it or some damn thing. Anyway, it sucks. I hope these "load levelers" take the mystery out of these things.

JMc

You're welcome. The first switchbacks I purchased were through Richard at Corvette Enhancements who took care of me with free replacements. But he didn't stock the 48 LED type and after two failures with the 20 LED type, I went direct to autoilluminations.

rpm462

Hmm...I've been through a few sets of these as well and they told me that they just thought that because of all the intricate soldering required on these that the solder joints probably just failed.

So where do you hook those LED protectors up at?

JMc

You just cut the positive wire to the DRL's and the the load protector goes in the middle. Looks like the connectors on the end of the capacitor or whatever it is just crimp down on the ends of the + wire that you just cut to splice it back together.

marinehacker202

sounds like if i make the switch I'll be going to JW.

JMc

Well, he's DEFINITELY got the better warranty, no question about it. I am a little skeptical that the bulbs are designed or manufactured any differently, however. But if no one who has ever purchased a switchback from JW has ever had a failure after jumping their battery, then I will assume that his bulbs are indeed different. But for anyone who has them already and don't want to mess around taking the chance of having to replace an expensive bulb, the load protector might be worth the add $4 total investment. If they really work, of course. Time will tell.

Mr.Bill

The way I read it is you put the protector on the neg wire, I could be wrong.....

SilverC54me

From the information presented for these LED Protectors, it has to be a resistor to drop the voltage a bit since there is no indication of polarity on the device.

Gary

IRON MAIDEN

Glad I bought from JW!!!!! That's why we support our vendors. because they support us ; )

mtndv8

Just jumped mine 3 days ago.
Battery dead, dead, dead.
No issues, so far...

KOZ

OK so what is the 'load leveler'? A resistor of some sort?

tstar

Yep a resistor... I would suspect a very small one but able to handle higher wattages. I'm not a fan of those crimp on vampire connectors so I would cut those off and solder the "Protectors" in JMC... IMHO

VET IT B

I SEE THIS AS ON THE GROUND WIRE AS WELL ???

I am experiencing this problem with my switchback's as well.