Replacing wheel studs
04-25-2011, 05:51 PM
#1
Race Director
Thread Starter
Replacing wheel studs
Has any one replaced wheel studs. How hard/easy was it and what all do I need.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
04-25-2011, 06:30 PM
#2
On the front or rear? Front is easy. Take the rotor and caliper off and turn the hub so the stud will come out the backside. Hit the stud with a mallet till it comes out. Put the new stud in and use a washer and lug nut with a impact to suck it in tight. Make sure to re-check the torque of the lug nuts after driving... Not too sure how to do the rears on these cars as I haven't really looked.
04-25-2011, 09:01 PM
#3
Race Director
Thread Starter
On the front or rear? Front is easy. Take the rotor and caliper off and turn the hub so the stud will come out the backside. Hit the stud with a mallet till it comes out. Put the new stud in and use a washer and lug nut with a impact to suck it in tight. Make sure to re-check the torque of the lug nuts after driving... Not too sure how to do the rears on these cars as I haven't really looked.
04-25-2011, 09:17 PM
#4
Here's a thread to check out then. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...eel-studs.html It's for longer wheel studs but I would imagine the process is the same since they just don't pop out like the front.
04-26-2011, 09:32 AM
#5
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,678
Received 19,219 Likes
on
13,929 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Great info. Thanks for the links to the procedure.
04-26-2011, 10:23 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
Posts: 5,213
Received 184 Likes
on
133 Posts
FYI
I did this last summer and it is a PITA if your going to do it without removing the rear wheel hub assembly. The information provided in the link on how to drill through the backing plate is correct, but what they don't tell you is that it's not a straight shot in and you actually have to tap them on a slight angle due to the spindle blocking the path. If using ARP long studs (like I did) the tensile strength is strong but did manage to slightly flatten the ARP threads. I was able to remedy this by using the APPROPRIATE file that matched the thread size in order to "sharpen" them up again so the lug nut would go on properly.
In order to get a straight shot in you would have to drill a notch out of the spindle and I actually did take a few MM off but did not drill or remove more then that! It might not harm it but I managed to do it without but the choice is up to you. Good luck!
I did this last summer and it is a PITA if your going to do it without removing the rear wheel hub assembly. The information provided in the link on how to drill through the backing plate is correct, but what they don't tell you is that it's not a straight shot in and you actually have to tap them on a slight angle due to the spindle blocking the path. If using ARP long studs (like I did) the tensile strength is strong but did manage to slightly flatten the ARP threads. I was able to remedy this by using the APPROPRIATE file that matched the thread size in order to "sharpen" them up again so the lug nut would go on properly.
In order to get a straight shot in you would have to drill a notch out of the spindle and I actually did take a few MM off but did not drill or remove more then that! It might not harm it but I managed to do it without but the choice is up to you. Good luck!
04-26-2011, 10:54 AM
#7
Burning Brakes
depending on the circumstances (at track, at home) I've used the hammer it out approach or used one of these
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Univ.../dp/B0002SRFOY
I've also removed the front bearing assembly and supported the hub in a vise and hammered out the fronts -- depends on your comfort level of hammering on a bearing assy
and Lou's tip is the only way to put longer studs into a Miata rear so should work fine on vettes too
for replacement studs, NAPA sells same length studs that have threads all the way to the end
stock studs do not have threads for the last 10mm or so
Doug Rippie Motorsports sells 1/2" longer studs that are threaded all the way
and ARP has 1" longer studs
http://www.amazon.com/OTC-7315A-Univ.../dp/B0002SRFOY
I've also removed the front bearing assembly and supported the hub in a vise and hammered out the fronts -- depends on your comfort level of hammering on a bearing assy
and Lou's tip is the only way to put longer studs into a Miata rear so should work fine on vettes too
for replacement studs, NAPA sells same length studs that have threads all the way to the end
stock studs do not have threads for the last 10mm or so
Doug Rippie Motorsports sells 1/2" longer studs that are threaded all the way
and ARP has 1" longer studs
