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Whats the safest way to jack my car up on jack stands?

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Old 05-24-2011, 11:48 PM
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Razzputon
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Default Whats the safest way to jack my car up on jack stands?

So it's time to do a little DIY work under my vette. I bought my pucks, low profile jack, 4 jack stands and made some ramps with 2x12 lumber.

I have jacked up cars before but never front and back at the same time and never a vette. I would rather be safe then sorry so I thought I would get some mentoring from you guys first.



Any advice is appreciated.

Last edited by Razzputon; 05-25-2011 at 12:48 AM.
Old 05-24-2011, 11:58 PM
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nickolbag
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Jack up one end, put jackstands under car. Proceed to other end and jack that end up and put jackstands under car. Works every time! Have fun.
Old 05-25-2011, 12:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nickolbag
Jack up one end, put jackstands under car. Proceed to other end and jack that end up and put jackstands under car. Works every time! Have fun.
Cool. I saw picture on where to jack it up from the front end using a block of wood. I'm not clear on where to jack it up from the rear though.

This is from a Junkman diy post for jacking up the front end properly:
Old 05-25-2011, 01:17 AM
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GM Fan
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Very similar crossmember at the rear as well.

Unlike the image/instructions above, I use a 2x6 board to jack up on the crossmembers, around 18-20 inches long on each crossmember. That is long enough for the jackstands to go under the wood so the stands aren't on the crossmember directly. Second piece of wood on the other crossmember.

Might want to start with the front but only lift a little bit before moving to the rear, otherwise you can't get the jack and wood under the rear crossmember as the car tilts backwards. Get it up on stands and then back to the front and lift more if necessary.

Last edited by GM Fan; 05-25-2011 at 01:22 AM.
Old 05-25-2011, 01:31 AM
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Razzputon
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Originally Posted by GM Fan
Very similar crossmember at the rear as well.

Unlike the image/instructions above, I use a 2x6 board to jack up on the crossmembers, around 18-20 inches long on each crossmember. That is long enough for the jackstands to go under the wood so the stands aren't on the crossmember directly. Second piece of wood on the other crossmember.

Might want to start with the front but only lift a little bit before moving to the rear, otherwise you can't get the jack and wood under the rear crossmember as the car tilts backwards. Get it up on stands and then back to the front and lift more if necessary.
Very nice. Thanks!
Old 05-25-2011, 03:16 AM
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dhowdy
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If the crossmember is only about 20" long, how stable is the car really with the jack stands sitting that close together? I don't know that I'd feel comfortable jumping in the car or really wrenching on it with them sitting so close.

I've thought about jacking the front, placing jack stands under the board on the front crossmember, then jacking the back, and putting stands at the rear puck locations. Seems like this would provide more stability to me... I just picked up the car this weekend though and it hasn't been in the air yet, so I would love to hear thoughts on this from those that have tried various methods.
Old 05-25-2011, 04:01 AM
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MT0911
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Originally Posted by Razzputon
Cool. I saw picture on where to jack it up from the front end using a block of wood. I'm not clear on where to jack it up from the rear though.

This is from a Junkman diy post for jacking up the front end properly:
Since you noted in your first post that you bought new jacking pucks, you could always just jack the car from the puck areas (#3 on the diagram below). That is my preferred method personally since there is a wider area of coverage which for one makes me feel safer plus naturally there is more room to move comfortably underneath the car. I also like to put the wheels partially under the car with me for extra safeness lol. Here's a quick diagram so you can see the safe areas to jack the Vette up.

Old 05-25-2011, 06:07 AM
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baxsom
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the only problem with using the puck areas is that you can jack it there but then how are you going to put the stand in. There are a few threads here on jack stand placement and using boards under the crossmembers etc. Put a board under each crossmember, jack from the center, put your jackstand at each end. It is very stable. Each time I have mine up in the air, I shake it pretty good and cant budge the thing. I wouldnt do it on a unlevel surface though.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:26 AM
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MT0911
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Originally Posted by baxsom
the only problem with using the puck areas is that you can jack it there but then how are you going to put the stand in. There are a few threads here on jack stand placement and using boards under the crossmembers etc. Put a board under each crossmember, jack from the center, put your jackstand at each end. It is very stable. Each time I have mine up in the air, I shake it pretty good and cant budge the thing. I wouldnt do it on a unlevel surface though.
Well, with just jack stands and a floor jack I would imagine you would just need a lengthy low profile floor to jack to reach the cross member to get the jacks under the pucks. Another alternative is ramps, and then jack from the cross member and place jack stands under the pucks. Some type of brace would be beneficial as well whether it be a 2x4 or something similar for the cross member.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:40 AM
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baxsom
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I have to drive mine up on ramps and then push the jack up under the front after taking off the air dam to get to the cross member. rear is a considerably easier. That is why I put the frame rail protectors from elite engineering on. Now I just take it to the base hobby shop and use their lift.
Old 05-25-2011, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by baxsom
I have to drive mine up on ramps and then push the jack up under the front after taking off the air dam to get to the cross member. rear is a considerably easier. That is why I put the frame rail protectors from elite engineering on. Now I just take it to the base hobby shop and use their lift.
That also would be a very nice alternative .

One of these days I'll invest money into a nice garage setup with a 4-point lift and all the nice extras.... That'll be the day . Yes.... I can dream lol .
Old 05-25-2011, 01:26 PM
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TorchRedRocket
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Jack up the front end first since the front wheels are not locked from the parking brake or transmission.
Old 05-25-2011, 01:57 PM
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I purchased a set of 2 ton cross beam adapters from ToolzUnlimited.com for $34 each. Much more secure than any piece of wood and you can place your jack stands on the sides by the jacking pucks.


Initially I took the directions that were posted on the Forum to make the wooden adapters to use on the crossbeams. The thing I didn't like is the sides of the adapter touch the crossbeams but the center - where the jack is and all of the lifting is taking place - there is a couple inch gap. I always felt the wood could snap like a wishbone!

IMO the best $68 I've spent.
Old 05-25-2011, 02:03 PM
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It looks precarious but seems solid for me.



The wood 2x12's help get the jack under it. The angled/pointed cut on the blocks help the wheels grab them while driving up on them so they don't scoot.
And the wood under the crossmembers helps bite into the frame and the stands so there is no slippage.
Old 05-25-2011, 02:53 PM
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Is it OK to only use one jack stand? For example, I plan to remove one front wheel/tire in order to install some new side cove screens. I know I can do this by turning the wheel, however I want to remove the wheel well liner for other reasons as well. Once I jack up the car and remove the wheel, can I install one jack stand and then lower the car back down or do I need to install the second one under the other front wheel?

It might be a stupid question to seasoned pros, however I've never used jack stands before.
Old 05-25-2011, 03:52 PM
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TheBigDog
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Originally Posted by Razzputon
So it's time to do a little DIY work under my vette. I bought my pucks, low profile jack, 4 jack stands and made some ramps with 2x12 lumber.

I have jacked up cars before but never front and back at the same time and never a vette. I would rather be safe then sorry so I thought I would get some mentoring from you guys first.



Any advice is appreciated.
I put my low profile jack under on side at the lifting spots where the pucks go. Jack up one side put in the stand and repeat on the other side. Then I jack up the rear and put both jacks there

The Big Dog
Old 05-25-2011, 04:49 PM
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Oh 2 Fun
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[QUOTE=MSG C5;1577708252]Is it OK to only use one jack stand? For example, I plan to remove one front wheel/tire in order to install some new side cove screens. I know I can do this by turning the wheel, however I want to remove the wheel well liner for other reasons as well. Once I jack up the car and remove the wheel, can I install one jack stand and then lower the car back down or do I need to install the second one under the other front wheel?

QUOTE]

I just like to jack each "axle" or end up at a time so it's not twisting the frame rather than one corner at a time. It's probably of no consequence but that's why I just do each end altogether.

But if you do a corner just far enough to remove a wheel, it probably doesn't hurt anything.

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Old 05-25-2011, 05:44 PM
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chill99
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Haven't read all the posts, but since I just finished learning this myself and doing it a few times, I thought I'd throw some pics on here. Feel free to PM me if I can help answer any questions.

With this setup, I have tried rocking the car and it doesn't budge. I open doors and have even started the car - no problem. Still scares me to get underneath it though, so when I do I lay spare wheels under the rocker panels just in case.






below, looking from the front toward the rear:


Front:


Rear:


Rear:


Old 05-25-2011, 05:51 PM
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Here's some great info:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...ting-pads.html
Old 05-25-2011, 09:24 PM
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nj02vette
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You can put jack stands at either the lifting puck locations, or under the crossmembers, as mentioned. Neither is incorrect. To put jackstands at the lifting puck locations, jack up using the crossmember, and vice versa if you want the jackstands at the crossmember.

However, what you should do depends on what work you want to do. Jackstands at the crossmember are a pain in the azz if you want to change a swaybar, for example. My car is up with the lifting pucks right now for the supercharger install. I have to drop the cradle somewhat, so that's out as a lift location. As I said, no right answer, just depends on being out of the way.

But some words of caution. Jackstands on the lift locations are going to be more stable than on the cradle crossmembers. Just because they are more outboard. And be very careful with wood. Do not put the grain of the wood along with length of the crossmember. It can split, the car can become unstable and kill you. Not going to sugarcoat it.

Whatever method you use, when taking the tires off, put the tires under the frame for some additional safety. And never get under a car with just a jack.


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