A/C on Driver's side, Heat on passenger side..
06-29-2011, 11:01 PM
#1
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A/C on Driver's side, Heat on passenger side..
Noticed the other day, my '99 coupe's a/c was putting out ice cubes on the driver side, but the passenger side was throwing nothing but hot air. Worked for me, but the wife wasn't happy.
I pulled the codes and I was throwing a code B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND for the HVAC. A quick search pointed me to clearing the code to reindex the actuator ( I could hear the actuators running..) and to try pulling the #27 fuse in the right footwell which I did to no avail.
The condition still exists, not a huge deal as I normally have the roof off for my 'airconditioning' but I'd rather have it working correctly. I've found through searches that the actuator is under the dash to the left of the passenger airbag. The dash needs to be removed in order to remove/repair/replace it. Now I don't mind doing that if that is all that can be done, but I'm curious if anyone has a schematic of the circuit they can post or email to me so I can prove the failure of the actuator before pulling the dash, or have any other methods of getting it to the proper position for cool air?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
I pulled the codes and I was throwing a code B0365 Right Actuator Feedback Short to GND for the HVAC. A quick search pointed me to clearing the code to reindex the actuator ( I could hear the actuators running..) and to try pulling the #27 fuse in the right footwell which I did to no avail.The condition still exists, not a huge deal as I normally have the roof off for my 'airconditioning' but I'd rather have it working correctly. I've found through searches that the actuator is under the dash to the left of the passenger airbag. The dash needs to be removed in order to remove/repair/replace it. Now I don't mind doing that if that is all that can be done, but I'm curious if anyone has a schematic of the circuit they can post or email to me so I can prove the failure of the actuator before pulling the dash, or have any other methods of getting it to the proper position for cool air?
Thanks in advance.
Jeff
06-30-2011, 09:14 AM
#2
Burning Brakes
If your pass. side is blowing hot, Your actuators need re-calibrating, not re-indexing. The #27 fuse will fix it. If you hear a clicking sound from you actuators, that could mean cracked or missing teeth on the actuator. That's another problem that can be repaired, do a search.
Turn off the ignition.
Remove the Fuse of the HVAC control module located in the floor of the pass. side fuse box (fuse #27 only). There is another HVAC fuse (don't recall the #), it does not need removing.
Important: The module memory will not clear if the fuse is re-installed in less than 60 seconds (59 won’t reset it & you don't have to wait 5 minutes either). Wait 60 seconds minimum.
Re-install #27 fuse.
Start car, turn on AC
I have seen it take several tries with the fuse & I’ve heard reports this can be done with the car started & AC on. I’ve had to do mine several times until I learned about spinning the temp ****.
One thing that will throw your actuators out of whack is spinning the temperature selection **** (driver side) too fast (learned this the hard way). If you turn the dial from 90 degrees all the way to 60 degrees in one quick spin, it sometimes doesn’t give the computer that controls the HVAC time to react correctly. This can sometimes cause one side to blow hot and the other side to blow cold. You can often reset this problem by turning the temperature all the way up or down, turn the HVAC off, then back on again, and then SLOWLY rotate the **** all the way in the opposite direction.
You can also try resetting your hvac code in the dic. Turn your key on, turn air on. pull codes in dic, reset code(s), turn air off, restart car. I've seen this work and as usual it may take 3-4 tries.
Hope this helps.
tracer1
Turn off the ignition.
Remove the Fuse of the HVAC control module located in the floor of the pass. side fuse box (fuse #27 only). There is another HVAC fuse (don't recall the #), it does not need removing.
Important: The module memory will not clear if the fuse is re-installed in less than 60 seconds (59 won’t reset it & you don't have to wait 5 minutes either). Wait 60 seconds minimum.
Re-install #27 fuse.
Start car, turn on AC
I have seen it take several tries with the fuse & I’ve heard reports this can be done with the car started & AC on. I’ve had to do mine several times until I learned about spinning the temp ****.
One thing that will throw your actuators out of whack is spinning the temperature selection **** (driver side) too fast (learned this the hard way). If you turn the dial from 90 degrees all the way to 60 degrees in one quick spin, it sometimes doesn’t give the computer that controls the HVAC time to react correctly. This can sometimes cause one side to blow hot and the other side to blow cold. You can often reset this problem by turning the temperature all the way up or down, turn the HVAC off, then back on again, and then SLOWLY rotate the **** all the way in the opposite direction.
You can also try resetting your hvac code in the dic. Turn your key on, turn air on. pull codes in dic, reset code(s), turn air off, restart car. I've seen this work and as usual it may take 3-4 tries.
Hope this helps.
tracer1
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06-30-2011, 05:53 PM
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tracer1, well, that is pretty much what I did the first time, with the exception of leaving the fuse out for at least a minute. I did what you said about 4-5 times, and I think there is an improvement. Nothing what I would call cold coming out, but an improvement.
I appreciate the assistance, I'm going to dig a little deeper and see what I can find out.
I appreciate the assistance, I'm going to dig a little deeper and see what I can find out.
06-30-2011, 06:14 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
Hi Jeff..
If the air is blowing equal on both sides, you might want to check the freon. I would put gauges on it (not the ones on the cans) & check it that way. If the air is equal on both sides, then the actuators should be OK. Only thing the fuse does is reset them to allow the same amount of air (cool or hot) to flow evenly, won't control the temp. So, have the freon checked. Might help, won't hurt.
tracer1
If the air is blowing equal on both sides, you might want to check the freon. I would put gauges on it (not the ones on the cans) & check it that way. If the air is equal on both sides, then the actuators should be OK. Only thing the fuse does is reset them to allow the same amount of air (cool or hot) to flow evenly, won't control the temp. So, have the freon checked. Might help, won't hurt.
tracer1
07-09-2011, 02:57 PM
#5
Instructor
If your pass. side is blowing hot, Your actuators need re-calibrating, not re-indexing. The #27 fuse will fix it. If you hear a clicking sound from you actuators, that could mean cracked or missing teeth on the actuator. That's another problem that can be repaired, do a search.
Turn off the ignition.
Remove the Fuse of the HVAC control module located in the floor of the pass. side fuse box (fuse #27 only). There is another HVAC fuse (don't recall the #), it does not need removing.
Important: The module memory will not clear if the fuse is re-installed in less than 60 seconds (59 won’t reset it & you don't have to wait 5 minutes either). Wait 60 seconds minimum.
Re-install #27 fuse.
Start car, turn on AC
I have seen it take several tries with the fuse & I’ve heard reports this can be done with the car started & AC on. I’ve had to do mine several times until I learned about spinning the temp ****.
One thing that will throw your actuators out of whack is spinning the temperature selection **** (driver side) too fast (learned this the hard way). If you turn the dial from 90 degrees all the way to 60 degrees in one quick spin, it sometimes doesn’t give the computer that controls the HVAC time to react correctly. This can sometimes cause one side to blow hot and the other side to blow cold. You can often reset this problem by turning the temperature all the way up or down, turn the HVAC off, then back on again, and then SLOWLY rotate the **** all the way in the opposite direction.
You can also try resetting your hvac code in the dic. Turn your key on, turn air on. pull codes in dic, reset code(s), turn air off, restart car. I've seen this work and as usual it may take 3-4 tries.
Hope this helps.
tracer1
Turn off the ignition.
Remove the Fuse of the HVAC control module located in the floor of the pass. side fuse box (fuse #27 only). There is another HVAC fuse (don't recall the #), it does not need removing.
Important: The module memory will not clear if the fuse is re-installed in less than 60 seconds (59 won’t reset it & you don't have to wait 5 minutes either). Wait 60 seconds minimum.
Re-install #27 fuse.
Start car, turn on AC
I have seen it take several tries with the fuse & I’ve heard reports this can be done with the car started & AC on. I’ve had to do mine several times until I learned about spinning the temp ****.
One thing that will throw your actuators out of whack is spinning the temperature selection **** (driver side) too fast (learned this the hard way). If you turn the dial from 90 degrees all the way to 60 degrees in one quick spin, it sometimes doesn’t give the computer that controls the HVAC time to react correctly. This can sometimes cause one side to blow hot and the other side to blow cold. You can often reset this problem by turning the temperature all the way up or down, turn the HVAC off, then back on again, and then SLOWLY rotate the **** all the way in the opposite direction.
You can also try resetting your hvac code in the dic. Turn your key on, turn air on. pull codes in dic, reset code(s), turn air off, restart car. I've seen this work and as usual it may take 3-4 tries.
Hope this helps.
tracer1
Thanks to this post, and tracer 1, I tried pulling #27 fuse for a quick fix and it solved the problem the first try.
I would note that after pulling the fuse(with the ignition off) I turned both drivers and pass HVAC controls to hot. After the one minute waiting period I installed the #27 fuse and started the car. I turned the fan on high and after the car warmed up I got heat on both sides. I then SLOWLY turned the HVAC ***** to cold and the AC blew cold air. I then SLOWLY turned the ***** to heat and the heat came on both sides.
I was curious if its a factor regarding the position of the HVAC *****, HOT or COLD on the drivers or pass side, and the specific problem of heat on one side and cold on the other or vice versa prior to starting the car after the fuse pull?
Anyway thanks to you guys I was able to fix this problem myself avoiding the stealership and a monster bill!
07-09-2011, 03:45 PM
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I may try the procedure you outlined as it's probably the only way I haven't tried it!
07-09-2011, 04:19 PM
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my 1999 had b0365 & b0367 codes, so i removed fuse #27, waited a couple mins. replaced, and turned key on for a couple mins. now code b0446 ( out of range )
also if i don't drive the car for 3 to 4 days battery goes dead, anyone have any answers
also if i don't drive the car for 3 to 4 days battery goes dead, anyone have any answers
07-09-2011, 10:41 PM
#11
Burning Brakes
I assume that's a duralast gold w/115rc. First, I'm not a battery guy but I would have the battery checked (disconnected with a full load put on it). I don't know how qualified Autozone employees are on doing this.
The c5 has a nominal amps pull even in the sleep mode but it shouldn't kill it within 4-5 days, at least it doesn't mine. Check the chassis ground (#9, I think) for a corroded ground, check the terminals on the battery for corrosion & tightness (but don't over tighten), they have a torque spec also. As I said the C5 is notorious for battery drain but with a little common sense and ground connector cleaning, works wonders.
That's where I would start first at least. There are so many other variables, alternator, ipod connection, shorts, etc to just mention a few. A lot of guys will say, just put a battery tender on it, which you can. That may treat the problem but it won't be the cure. Personally, I like to know what is killing it, but hey, that's me.
A lot of guys are more knowledgeable on this than I am, so if any are out there, chime in. I'm always willing to learn also.
Good luck
tracer1
The c5 has a nominal amps pull even in the sleep mode but it shouldn't kill it within 4-5 days, at least it doesn't mine. Check the chassis ground (#9, I think) for a corroded ground, check the terminals on the battery for corrosion & tightness (but don't over tighten), they have a torque spec also. As I said the C5 is notorious for battery drain but with a little common sense and ground connector cleaning, works wonders.
That's where I would start first at least. There are so many other variables, alternator, ipod connection, shorts, etc to just mention a few. A lot of guys will say, just put a battery tender on it, which you can. That may treat the problem but it won't be the cure. Personally, I like to know what is killing it, but hey, that's me.
A lot of guys are more knowledgeable on this than I am, so if any are out there, chime in. I'm always willing to learn also.
Good luck
tracer1
Last edited by tracer1; 07-09-2011 at 10:44 PM.
05-03-2013, 07:54 AM
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After pulling the number 27 fuse over and over again and even disconnecting the battery for over an hour plus clearing the DIC B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open code many times with it instantly returning I just ordered Air Door Actuator; Temp w/ Automatic control for my 1998 with automatic temperature control.
Not looking forward to spending a few hours pulling the dashboard but with saving hundreds of dollars it seems worth spending a few hours taking screws in and out.
Not looking forward to spending a few hours pulling the dashboard but with saving hundreds of dollars it seems worth spending a few hours taking screws in and out.
Last edited by TerriZeee; 05-11-2013 at 10:11 AM.
05-11-2013, 09:29 AM
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After pulling the number 27 fuse over and over again and even disconnecting the battery for over an hour plus clearing the DIC B0367 Right Actuator Feedback Open code many times with it instantly returning I just ordered Air Door Actuator; Temp w/ Automatic control for my 1998 with automatic temperature control.
Not looking forward to spending a few hours pulling the dashboard but with saving hundreds of dollars it seems worth spending a few hours taking screws in and out.
Not looking forward to spending a few hours pulling the dashboard but with saving hundreds of dollars it seems worth spending a few hours taking screws in and out.
The new actuator was $90 with shipping.
I had to take apart the new actuator in order to rotate the gear so that it lined up with the shaft but that was the only issue that I ran into. Taking the dash apart is actually pretty easy to do.
The new actuator is a lot different inside that the old one. The shaft and gear are one piece all made out of plastic unlike the old one that was a plastic gear around a metal shaft and the potentiometer is part of it unlike the old one that the potentiometer was part of the blue gear. New one was also a lot lighter than the old one.
I took the old one apart and you can see the broken gear in the picture.
Last edited by TerriZeee; 05-11-2013 at 09:57 AM.
