jim993

I got it on there Saturday, naturally there is a tale to tell.

I used an AC Delco filter and gasket, not the cork gasket that came with the B&M pan. The AC Delco gasket which was on the car had been drip tight for two years with the OEM pan.

The physical configuration of the C5 automatic reduced but did not eliminate the initial splurch. No mater how I do it, I always get transmission fluid all over the place when changing fluid. The C5 trans pan has a fill/level plug in the side which allows draining of fluid which flows back to the pan after shutdown, so the total volume of splurch is thereby reduced. Nonetheless, when lowering the still mostly full pan, an inadvisable tilt to the West sent a red wave toward the garage door.

Doing this kind of work with the car on jack stands- lots of squirming on an old back. The tool you need is always somewhere you can't see it, like between your legs or just out of reach above your head. Or on the bench.

The C5 automatic transmission has no combination fill tube/dip stick tube. Once the filter and pan are on, you have to use a hand pump of some kind to fill the transmission. That leads to additional spills and blurching. Unlike a manual trans which takes several of pints, I need to get seven or eight quarts into the automatic. I used an "oil suction gun" as the hand pump, but it was unfortunately slightly miss assembled, with a gasket out of place, so it sucked a little air and dripped more than usual, adding to the mess.

After filling to the point where there is fluid dribbling out the fill hole, the engine is then started and the trans cycled through the gears, foot on the brake so that the trans can be filled again. Fluid is drawn up into the works and held there as long as the engine is running.

You then select "TRANS FLUID" on the DIC and monitor transmission temperature as the engine idles with the car on jack stands. When the fluid hits 122 degrees F, open the fill/ drain plug and allow the excess fluid to spill out, new volume created by the increased fluid temperature, splattering your glasses and face. Getting the plug back in is a challenge, as it is next to one exhaust pipe, with about 2" clearance, so there are a few scorches and slight burns on the hand trying to get the plug started into what is now a hot transmission. A check of the DIC with the plug back in indicates 187 degrees. You can shut down the engine ONLY after the fill/ level plug is in- or face a cascade of hot fluid erupting out the open hole.

One would almost think that the fluid loop to the radiator is a transmission heater, not a cooler.

Cleanup the remaining fluid, off the jack stands and done. Several big rags and half a roll of paper towels. Next time the blurch will be smaller, because the new trans pan has an actual drain plug.

While it only took 15 minutes on the jack stands for the fluid temperature to hit almost 190 degrees, the 30 minute drive to town over 17 miles of curvy road on Monday resulted in a fluid temperature of 155 degrees.

thetaxman

It's never been that messy for me
loosen pan and leave 2 bolts in after pulling the plug
then hold the pan and take out the last 2
rarely a drop spilled

Munch

Only mishap I had was fluid dripping in my hair as I entered mortal combat with the filter seal. If I did it again I would get some kind of puller for that.

Vetteman Jack

Sounds like you had a real experience with that project. Like you said though, next time should be better.