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Convertible top hatch strut installation.
#41
Intermediate
Wow! Good for you! The first time I called after they had sent me the wrong item, the customer service lady put me on hold to check with "management" and when she returned she claimed "I tried, but they want those back." Yesterday, she agreed to send me the correct ends but never offered to do anything else.
Last edited by whippit; 10-22-2015 at 01:06 PM. Reason: Add a comment.
#43
Racer
I ordered these from Amazon also. I like Amazon's customer service when there is any problem. I received them today.
The two struts I received were jammed solid and would not move. The shafts would also not rotate. They were from some company named Sixity Auto but with the GM part number.
I finally got them broke loose, by laying my full 240 pounds on top of them, but when I tried to install the first one, The clip on the trunk end was too small on the new struts. On the original strut the clip on the trunk or cylinder (non-rod) end is considerably bigger that the end that goes to the tonneau cover. The ones I received had the same size clips and holes on both ends.
Sadly they'll have to go back.
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The company (Sixity Auto) mailed me the correct fitting for the cylinder end (10 mm). The ends just screw on or off on the new cylinders, not on the originals.
With the new ends installed they went on without a hitch. They are about 5/16" shorter, when fully extended, but seemed to hold open the cover far enough anyway.
Jim
The two struts I received were jammed solid and would not move. The shafts would also not rotate. They were from some company named Sixity Auto but with the GM part number.
I finally got them broke loose, by laying my full 240 pounds on top of them, but when I tried to install the first one, The clip on the trunk end was too small on the new struts. On the original strut the clip on the trunk or cylinder (non-rod) end is considerably bigger that the end that goes to the tonneau cover. The ones I received had the same size clips and holes on both ends.
Sadly they'll have to go back.
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The company (Sixity Auto) mailed me the correct fitting for the cylinder end (10 mm). The ends just screw on or off on the new cylinders, not on the originals.
With the new ends installed they went on without a hitch. They are about 5/16" shorter, when fully extended, but seemed to hold open the cover far enough anyway.
Jim
I ordered a set from Sixity Auto (via Amazon) earlier this month and originally received the wrong ones...the struts for the trunk lid. I returned those and a few days later received the correct ones. However, as you've pointed out, the new ones have smaller holes than the original GM struts. I was so disgusted with this company and the hassle of what should have been a simple purchase that I grabbed my drill and enlarged the holes so they would fit. I just finished writing a nasty note to them about their claim that the struts are "manufactured to exacting OEM specifications." The replacements are installed now and working great. I have to admit, they seem stronger than the originals. That cover really springs up now!
Should have ordered them from the link I previously provided. No problems, perfect fit, lifetime warranty and not re-pops.
#44
Racer
I ordered a set from Sixity Auto (via Amazon) earlier this month and originally received the wrong ones...the struts for the trunk lid. I returned those and a few days later received the correct ones. However, as you've pointed out, the new ones have smaller holes than the original GM struts. I was so disgusted with this company and the hassle of what should have been a simple purchase that I grabbed my drill and enlarged the holes so they would fit. I just finished writing a nasty note to them about their claim that the struts are "manufactured to exacting OEM specifications." The replacements are installed now and working great. I have to admit, they seem stronger than the originals. That cover really springs up now!
Last edited by Ceedub53; 11-20-2015 at 02:11 AM.
#46
8th Gear
Use the right tool
I wish I had read these posts before I started to replace my deck cover struts. Let me add two items that are critical. First, you need to use a flat blade screwdriver with about a 3/8 inch blade. Anything else will frustrate you and make the job nearly impossible. I know. Bought the right tool at Advance Auto Parts for $5. Second, you must install the new struts in the trunk first. Then when you close the trunk and open the deck the struts will fit correctly. This allows the correct distance between the trunk and deck mounting studs. Once I had the correct size screwdriver and installed trunk first and deck last it was a breeze. The struts I bought allowed the deck end to be lengthened about 1/8 inch to perfectly mate with the deck studs.
Last edited by On the rocks 1947; 12-09-2015 at 10:04 PM.
#47
Heel & Toe
Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Boca Raton Florida
Posts: 16
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Just completed my installation of the vert hatch struts. I used a mirror to look up to the strut and see it. About 10 minutes for both. The instructions were great, thanks.
#48
Racer
#49
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2008
Location: Red city in deep blue Oregon
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St. Jude Donor '17
MAX1...Hope this helps...Ya just pry them off with a screwdriver, see step #2
Best Way to Change the Struts
1. Open the trunk. Look under the sides and you will see the struts.
2. Pry off both the spring clips with a screwdriver.
3. Close the trunk.
4. Open the top hatch and prop it up in the fully raised position. The strut is now in the fully extended position and not under pressure.
5. Reach down and pull the strut off the ball joints.
6. Close the top hatch.
7. Open the trunk and snap the new strut on the aftermost ball joint, making sure that the rod end is positioned toward the front of the car.
8. Close the trunk.
9. Open the top hatch and snap the rod end on the forward ball joint. The hatch will now stand up by itself.
10. Repeat for the other side.
Doesn’t take long at all.
2004 Chevrolet Corvette
Best Way to Change the Struts
1. Open the trunk. Look under the sides and you will see the struts.
2. Pry off both the spring clips with a screwdriver.
3. Close the trunk.
4. Open the top hatch and prop it up in the fully raised position. The strut is now in the fully extended position and not under pressure.
5. Reach down and pull the strut off the ball joints.
6. Close the top hatch.
7. Open the trunk and snap the new strut on the aftermost ball joint, making sure that the rod end is positioned toward the front of the car.
8. Close the trunk.
9. Open the top hatch and snap the rod end on the forward ball joint. The hatch will now stand up by itself.
10. Repeat for the other side.
Doesn’t take long at all.
2004 Chevrolet Corvette
04 convertible here as well. I'm not seeing the back end of the struts from the trunk, suggestions?
#52
Just replaced mine. Took about 30 minutes and needed someone to hold roof and cowl up. The struts are located further back than I initially thought. Not a hard job. I did stick the awl into my thumb. Superglue to the rescue.
#53
Instructor
I originally u-tubed and watched a guy use a belt to compress them and tried that unsuccessfully for 10 minutes. Then I independently found out if I put the back on first and lift the lid the struts are not compressed! I was about to post how smart I am, but then found this post! I should of googled this site first.
#54
Pro
Member Since: Dec 2017
Location: Carol Stream (Chicago suburbs) IL
Posts: 515
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I replaced my struts today- they are difficult to see and the photos really helped! My suggestions:
Open the trunk lid- feel underneath the top of the fender (I found feeling for them was the best way for me to find them- reach up underneath the rear quarter panel and feel around and eventually you will feel them).
Prying the spring steel clip off of the strut socket to release from the ball was the most difficult part of the job for me--- and it wasn't all that hard- it just required a flashlight and a bit of bending. I removed both of the struts where they connected to the bracket in the trunk, then closed the trunk lid.
Next I opened the deck lid, propped it with a broom stick, and again feeling for the struts found them and simply pulled them off of the ball of the deck lid (this can be done by hand).
The new struts are very easy to get back on (no need to go into the trunk)- with the deck lid propped open, take the cylinder (thick end) in your hand (left hand for driver side, right hand for passenger side) and reach back through to the rear most ball, feeling for the ball, once you feel it, simply snap the new strut on (no need to fiddle with the clips to snap struts on), then move your hand up to the socket of the smaller rod end and snap that onto the deck lid ball.
The only things I add, to the above suggestions by others is that you might want to feel for the struts first- and that you can snap on the new struts via the propped open deck lid by feeling for the rear most ball with the strut in your hand. No need to go back into the trunk.
Once you have new struts on, you will be rewarded with a deck lid that will automatically pop all the way open and stay up!
Open the trunk lid- feel underneath the top of the fender (I found feeling for them was the best way for me to find them- reach up underneath the rear quarter panel and feel around and eventually you will feel them).
Prying the spring steel clip off of the strut socket to release from the ball was the most difficult part of the job for me--- and it wasn't all that hard- it just required a flashlight and a bit of bending. I removed both of the struts where they connected to the bracket in the trunk, then closed the trunk lid.
Next I opened the deck lid, propped it with a broom stick, and again feeling for the struts found them and simply pulled them off of the ball of the deck lid (this can be done by hand).
The new struts are very easy to get back on (no need to go into the trunk)- with the deck lid propped open, take the cylinder (thick end) in your hand (left hand for driver side, right hand for passenger side) and reach back through to the rear most ball, feeling for the ball, once you feel it, simply snap the new strut on (no need to fiddle with the clips to snap struts on), then move your hand up to the socket of the smaller rod end and snap that onto the deck lid ball.
The only things I add, to the above suggestions by others is that you might want to feel for the struts first- and that you can snap on the new struts via the propped open deck lid by feeling for the rear most ball with the strut in your hand. No need to go back into the trunk.
Once you have new struts on, you will be rewarded with a deck lid that will automatically pop all the way open and stay up!
Last edited by wdcraig; 05-02-2018 at 07:48 PM.
#55
My vert top hatch struts needed replaced as the hatch would no longer stay up by itself. I did a search on changing them, but wasn't satisfied with the results I got. So, here is how I changed them.
1. Open the trunk. Look under the sides and you will see the struts.
2. Pry off both the spring clips with a screwdriver or scratch awl.
3. Close the trunk.
4. Open the top hatch and prop it up in the fully raised position. The strut is now in the fully extended position and not under pressure.
5. Reach down and pull the strut off the ball joints.
6. Close the top hatch.
7. Open the trunk and snap the new strut on the aftermost ball joint, making sure that the rod end is positioned toward the front of the car.
8. Close the trunk.
9. Open the top hatch and snap the rod end on the forward ball joint.
The hatch will now stand up by itself.
10. Repeat for the other side.
Once I figured this method out, it took less than 5 minutes to complete the job. I didn't take any pictures, but when you look under the sides of the trunk, it is all pretty obvious.
1. Open the trunk. Look under the sides and you will see the struts.
2. Pry off both the spring clips with a screwdriver or scratch awl.
3. Close the trunk.
4. Open the top hatch and prop it up in the fully raised position. The strut is now in the fully extended position and not under pressure.
5. Reach down and pull the strut off the ball joints.
6. Close the top hatch.
7. Open the trunk and snap the new strut on the aftermost ball joint, making sure that the rod end is positioned toward the front of the car.
8. Close the trunk.
9. Open the top hatch and snap the rod end on the forward ball joint.
The hatch will now stand up by itself.
10. Repeat for the other side.
Once I figured this method out, it took less than 5 minutes to complete the job. I didn't take any pictures, but when you look under the sides of the trunk, it is all pretty obvious.
Last edited by golfbum1932; 06-21-2018 at 12:11 PM.
#56
Racer
Worked!
[QUOTE=Ultimate ride;1578697941]My vert top hatch struts needed replaced...
Followed your instructions. Just completed. Took no time at all. I would add that you reach through the open tonneau (hatch) lid to pop on the front part of each strut.
Your instructions were easier than what I've seen elsewhere. Thanks for the help!
Followed your instructions. Just completed. Took no time at all. I would add that you reach through the open tonneau (hatch) lid to pop on the front part of each strut.
Your instructions were easier than what I've seen elsewhere. Thanks for the help!
#58
When I open the trunk on my C5 , there are two plastic pieces(cowling),I can remove to replace the strut's. Whats the secret? Is there a video that goes through the steps to change the Tonneau cover struts?
#59
I'm trying to see some instructions mainly pistes of the exact location inside the trunk. The only thing I see are two plastic covers, one on the right and left inside of the trunk, but can't remove them. Don't want to break them trying to remove them. Is that were the strut hooks up to the Tonneau cover..