MSG C5

Hoping for some guidance on the required tools for this fix. I was all set to perform the fix this afternoon after removing the seats from the car. I am using the excellent write-up instructions posted on this forum for the fix per the link below:

http://www.lieblweb.com/c5seatfix.html

The instructions are for a 2001 Corvette Coupe and the tools required includes - 15mm socket w/ratchet, T-20 torx socket, T-25 torx socket, T-40 torx socket, 1/4" wrench, small screwdriver, pliers.

I have all these tools, however after reaching Step 12, I think GM pulled a fast one and changed the hardware on the seats between 2001 and 2004. First I don't have a track cover as outlined in Step 12A and now in Step 12, I realized that GM used a different type of torx bolt. (Pictures Below)

2001 Original Hardware:


2004 New Hardware:


Can anyone who has performed this fix on a 2004 confirm what size sockets I need to complete the fix? Can someone also confirm the name of this type of socket I will need to use? Is it called a female E-Torx socket? My current torx sockets are similar to those required in the write-up that have torx-type screw heads that insert into the sockets. I need a socket that covers and turn these bolts (6 star pattern) plus any other sockets that are used later in the process. Would these Lisle Master Torx Sockets (Sears) work? They list sizes E5-E20.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDi...=1316386387510

I'm hoping someone who performed this mod on a 2004 can chime in. Any help is appreciated!

Thanks!

homewrecker

Nothing vise grips can't handle. Don't know the size, ttt for ya.

Drop Top

ttt for a fellow 04 owner

pewter99

Mr.Bill

Did you by chance try a 12PT socket on it? Just a thought.

jaguar5822

I googled female torx, if you only want the one that fits, buy approximate sized ones from autozone and return the ones you didn't need. I have to admit I've never seen another use for a female torx bit.

MSG C5

It kept slipping.

I love the world of Torx. I only use them when I play with GM Parts.

Off to Autozone and maybe find something economical considering I will probably not use them again...

...unless I buy an old Astro Van.

MSG C5

...first time for me as well! I swear GM does this so we don't fix our own cars. I remember trying to find extra screws for my tail lights. $8.00 each at GM!

baxsom

make sure when you put everything back together that you get the left worm gear on the actual left side. i got mine mixed up and now my switch works backwards. not enough to make me do it over again but still annoying

MSG C5

Thanks for the tip. I am doing one rod at a time.

$$$frumnuttin'

They are called 'external Torx' as well. I bought a set of the most common sizes from Harbor Freight online, the stores don't have it. Funny thing, I also saw a set at my Ford dealer body shop...they sell a lot of unusual stuff in display racks...try your local Ford dealer!

$$$frumnuttin'

Also, I guess you didn't see my 'lazyman's fix' for this problem...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-seat-fix.html

...have not had any issues since I did this repair...

MSG C5

OK, I finally got my female torx socket and I'm working on the fix, now I get to Step 16 (removal of lead screw assembly) in the directions outlined in the fix below and I cannot get the assembly out as it keeps catching on "something".

http://www.lieblweb.com/c5seatfix.html

Now, I've already realized that GM changed the hardware/bolts since this fix was originally published for the 2001 C5, so I'm wondering if there is a missing step that is needed for my 2004.

I'm hoping someone who performed this fix on a late C5 production 2004 can chime in.

After having my seat out for the last 3 weeks, I'm getting to the point of just re-installing it as is. Ugh. Frustrated!

johnson-rod

Another reason to stay away from the 2004s.

Hee Hee..

MSG C5

I'm doing this as preventive maintenance since I'm installing new leather skins and installing new foam and since the seat is out of the car, I thought it would be the time to do it. However, I'm beginning to wonder whether or not GM actually fixed this problem after the recall up through 2002. Perhaps the fact that I can't remove the drive might be the actual fix. I know the hardware is different. Hmmmm....

03newjersey

Read Step 17 for the trick by LIEBLWEB. Also I just completed the fix on my 03 Coupe and I used a 5/16 12pt socket for those two bolts and had no problem getting them out.
But where I made my mistake was putting them back in.... Note when putting those two bolts back in remember that the aluminum block is ALUMINUM! I accidentally over tightened the bolts and stripped the threads. I had to run a tap through the threads and use regular hexhead bolts with a little teflon tape to get it tight again. Also when you are sanding down the nylon washers to fit in the aluminum block do a little each time and make sure they fit in tight. I oversanded one and after putting the aluminum block assembly together I was able to feel play in it when I worked the threaded rod back and forth a little. So get a few extra nylon washers in case you loose one or you over sand one.
Good Luck.

BTW after doing this fix my Easy Access In/Out Seat Feature works again. It hasn't worked properly for almost a year.

MSG C5

Thanks, but I've read it about 10 times. There is something blocking the screw mechanism from releasing through the back of the track. I really think GM changed the seat frame/tracks between the time this fix it thread was released in 2001 and 2004.

03newjersey

Did you complete all the previous steps and remove all the bolts? If so then as long as you have the seat on the ground in the position like the picture on LIEBLWEB, allow the track to slide down (towards the ground) all the way, then stick your screwdriver in the threaded holes of the aluminum block that is visible through the black seat track, and while the screwdriver is in the hole push up the black seat track and the track will catch the screwdriver and pop out the aluminum block and worm gear assembly. Maybe you have to push up on the seat track a little harder than you are currently doing, maybe you got to jolt it out.
I know you said you read it, but did you try it?
You should have the two torx-25 screws out, the one t-40 bolt out and the two t-20 screws out, correct? If so there is nothing holding the mechanism in there.

MSG C5

Yep! I have all the bolts out per the instructions. The worm assembly moves, however it won't move all the way out. I've tried it about 10 times utilizing the screw driver method described. That's why I'm wondering if the hardware has changed. I know the bolts have changed. For example, I do not have two torx 25 screws, rather two torx 25 bolts (original photo above). There is a second bolt near the t-40 bolt that connects the frame to the tracks and that is where is the worm assembly stops.

03newjersey

Just a thought, what if you turned the seat upright so its sitting on the ground in the normal upright position. Then lift up the one side that you are working on (maybe put something under the bottom of the seat to hold it off the ground, but not under the sliding track). Then put a short screwdriver in the same spot in the aluminum block and slide the black seat track towards the back of the seat and pop out that aluminum block.
My thought is that if there is a little lip on the inside of the track that is preventing the aluminum block assembly from sliding out easily while the seat is upside down, maybe if the seat is rightside up the aluminum block will come out easy? Note: mine was upside down on the ground and it popped out with the screwdriver. But the reason for putting the screwdriver in the block is because there is a little lip/obstruction that prevents it from sliding out easily. Give it a try and don't worry about being so gentle while sliding that track, give it a little slam this time.

That second t-40 bolt can you take it out? Or is it a rivet? If you shine a flashlight down the track what do you see that might be obstructing it? Also that square shaft flexible gear drive that inserts into the threaded rod on the aluminum block assembly is that popped out? Does the assembly rattle around inside the track?