GK

I know this is a topic that is constantly discussed. I came across this video in hopes that it may assist you if you ever need to swap your oil sender.

Road Runner

Very impressive!
rr

corvettedaddy11

65GGvert

I tried it last year, the socket wouldn't even go in the gap. It's not as easy as it looks, a tube has been moved in the video.

2slicks1vette

Good luck with that crap, he removed the PCV hose before starting the video.

Either remove the manifold or just do the cut out method.

Vetteman Jack

Good luck if you try that.

wamara

Can the plastic air inlet/cowl/tray (I'm not sure what its proper name is) at the base of the windshield be removed for easier access to the sender unit? I realize you would then need to take off the windshield wiper arms to remove it, but still - at least everything is up top and easy to get to....

Qweklain

I used this method a month ago when I bought my 02' Z06, and it worked just fine without issues. The only real issue I had was getting the damn pigtail plugged back in! The sensor itself snugged into the socket slid right in perfectly to the block with no hitch whatsoever.

kris6868

Underneath that plastic cowl/tray is a the top of the firewall.
The firewall runs horizontal for 4-6" or so for that plastic cow/tray to sit on an attach too then bends straight down forming the firewall...

An no removing the PVC Hose will not able you to get to the sender...
Or didnt for me...

Here is the PVC hose off my car for the fact i tried to change my sender unit two nights ago...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1578775273

An still no room to get behind the intake...

2slicks1vette

TNX ZORA

99% wishful thinking. No way I would remove the manifold for such a "simple" task as replacing an oil sender. After making a minimum size hole to allow access it made me feel better to fabricate an aluminum plate with two screws that covers the hole very nicely. When the brass bodied sender started leaking within 2 or 3 months I bought and easily installed an aluminum bodied sender. That was over a year ago.

LoneStarFRC

Nice pvc.

Chicago1

Any pics?

cdkcorvette7

What is all the hesitation about removing the intake manifold? If you can't remove your intake manifold you shouldn't be anywhere near your engine bay with a wrench (much less a hole-saw). It's NOT COMPLICATED. There are only two "tricks" you need to know.

1. Tape the two rearmost bolts to the top of the cowl after loosening them so they don't fall back down and keep you from pulling the manifold out.

2. Be careful not to break the very small vacuum line of the back of the manifold under the MAP sensor. There are three things you need to disconnect at the back of the manifold that you can't see very well. One is the MAP sensor and the other two are vacuum lines. GM build precisely ZERO slack into the little on and it's one of the harder plastic lines so it's easy to break.

The first time you do it you might have to go a little slow so budget 1.5 - 2 hours for removal, RR of the sender, replacement of the manifold and putting your tools away.

It's really not a bad idea to pull you intake every once in a while on these cars anyway just so you can clean up under there. You wouldn't believe the amount of crap that can accumulate. Also, given the huge amount of PCV oil blow-by in these cars it's a great opportunity to clean some of the crap out of your intake.

Just sayin...

cdkcorvette7

PVC = Poly Vinyl Chloride (I had to look that one up)

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation

madmatt9471

I have this saved as a favorite!

Thanks,Matt

kevpull

I agree... Removing the intake manifold on these cars is way easy. Plus it allows you to:
1. clean the inside of the manifold for better performance (with Carb Cleaner
2. Relocate the oil pressure sensor if so desired
3. Change the check valve that gets dirty and triggers check engine codes
4. Clean around the intake valves
5. Replace the intake gasket

All of this can be done with just one removal and you may never have to remove it again. Just sayin...

Evil-Twin

AS I have posted many many times.. its a 45 minute job start to finish, without removing the manifold..take off the throttle body, remove the manifold bolts tapping the two under the cowl... lift the manifold and pull forward 4 inches.. enough to get in there replace the sender and add a length of rubber windshield washer line ( connect it to the 1/8 black plastic vacuum line and the other end to the vac plug on the back of the manifold... make the length about 8 inches long in the event you have to replace the sender again.. Ive done this 4 times with no issue...

Jet-Jock

First time I removed it via the FSM method, second time I follow ETs & Curlee's advise. Except I still swapped out the gasket before I slid it back into place. I just cannot see how you could with confidence insert and start the pressure sender when trying to do it like in this video. I know how much room there is when the manifold is out of the way. And if you are using a oil pressure sender socket, you cannot get it in there with the video method. You have to use a regular socket. No way would I risk damaging the engine like that. And how are you going to torque it properly using the video method. Can't.

01vetter

I removed my intake manifold to replace a faulty knock sensor and while I was at it I installed a oil pressure sending unit relocation line. Now if mine goes it is a piece of cake to replace.

The only problem I had was removing the vacuum line from the back of the manifold. The line is plastic with a rubber right angle connection to the manifold. Even with the manifold loose I could not get much grip on the line connection. After 7 years it was frozen to the intake manifold. I finally managed to get a small bladed screw driver between the male nipple on the manifold and the rubber female connection to free it up. The rubber connector got beaten up but was still serviceable. Be very careful with this connector. If it brakes I don't know how you can replace it as it appeared to be glued to the vacuum line!