OneBadLT123

I need some new shocks as my rear ones are squeaking now and I was reading around that a lot of people were upgrading to Z06 shocks. What I also saw, is a lot have been upgrading to C6 Z06 shocks, but I cant seem to find a lot of info through the search.

What I am asking is what do C6 Z06 shocks have over C5 Z06 shocks, and if I were to use C6 Z06 ones are they pretty much plug and play into a 2000 coupe? The car DOES have the ride control feature, and also am wondering what all I need to do to disable this, if needed...

I just want to make sure I have my ducks in order before I commit to a specific type.
Thanks

OneBadLT123

I was also looking into getting Bilstein Sport Shocks as well, if you have opinions/thoughts on those

8VETTE7

If you have the F45 Ride control you need to either disable it (need a Tech II to do that) or fake it wout with simulators or build your own simulators.

As far as C5Z06 shocks vs C6Z06 shocks, compare prices on the two and you will select the C6Z06. They are a direct replacement for the shocks now installed (once you get by the F45 issue).

If you want to go with the prebuilt resistors (called Simulators) do a search for C5 Simulators.

If you want to build your own, refer to this link and post #6


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-question.html

OneBadLT123

Thanks for the information! Much appreciated

RV13

Fyi: I read a post somewhere on here that suggested removing the piston out of the side of the F45 shock and then just leaving it plugged in. I was able to remove the 'plug' out of the side of the shock and zip-tied it up under the wheel wheel. This worked for me and I am not throwing any codes. Easier than the resistors and no expense.

I am posting this from my phone, so I will add pics and a link to the post I was referring to later on.

vette.mix

please do

madmatt9471

IMHO stay away from the Bilsteins - very, very stiff! many have installed them only to remove and sell them a short while afterward

The C6 Z06 shock newer and better and cost less and the ride will be vastly improved and the handling as well and not overly stiff!

Thanks,Matt

rws.1

RV13

Ok, for some reason I can't find the original post where I had originally heard of this idea, but here goes my version....

I replaced my current F45 shocks on my 1999 Coupe that had 110k miles on them. I couldn't tell the difference between the 3 settings and the car leaned very sloppily when I took ramps or even when I would accelerate hard it would lean back. I upgraded the swaybars and metal endlinks at the same time (Thanks Gene!).

I pulled off the old shocks and noticed that the new C6ZO6 shocks had a rubber bumper on the top. I finally figured out just to pull it off the top of the shock and discard it.



Removing the old shocks wasn't too difficult. Just take out the obvious bolts holding them on the top and bottom. I noticed when I took out the old shocks that I could easily compress them by hand even though they didn't appear to have any leaks. They were extremely soft compared to the new C6Z06 shocks. With the new shocks I had to set one end on the ground and use my body weight to compress them.

I read somewhere on the forum (can't find the post) that suggested an alternate method of avoiding the F45 shock removal error codes (and making it so you can't drive over 80 mph). Instead tuning it out or buying expensive simulators or running to radio shack to purchase resistors to make your own simulators...they suggested just pulling the cylinder out of the old shock, plugging it back in and zip-tying the length somewhere out of the way.



To get the cylinder out (I am not sure what to call it), you just use an awl or screwdriver to catch inside of each of the 4 holes that are facing outward and unscrew the plate. It took a couple of smacks with a hammer on the screwdriver at each indent to get the round plate moving....but once it started going, it just unscrewed counter-clockwise. After a few turns the plate falls out and you can just pull the end of the F45 cable out of it. Then this geta plugged back into the regular harness on the car and zip-tie the bulky end somewhere out of the way.







I will attempt to take some better pictures of the actual removal of the F45 cable from the shock and put them up on my next set of days off...probably Sunday night.

I haven't had a single error code and have had no problems with the F45 delete.

Hopefully that wasn't too confusing. I am still trying to find the original post that mentioned the removal.

I have been driving with my new C6Z06 and C6Z51 sway-bars and metal end-links and so far I am very happy. The new shocks gave my vette a lift though....it looks like it lifted the frame about an inch higher. The car rides a stiffer now, but in a good way. It feels solid and corners much better....and no more leaning in the turns or upon acceleration. I am getting a pop and/or clunk from the front when going over inclined driveways at slow speeds occasionally. I am going to pull the wheels off this weekend and see if I can see where the noise is coming from.

OneBadLT123

Ahh ok, yeah I dont want it to be too stiff. I am already on run flats and it feels like I am riding on stones already so I'll stay away from those. Thanks!

OneBadLT123

Oh and thanks RV13 for the post! This is probably the route I am going to go with if it is working out.

OneBadLT123

Yeah I made that post before I read the rest of the thread lol
Thanks for the info. Looks like C6 Z06 shocks are what I am going to go with.

Now if I can find a non-ride control interior piece.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for some good information.

MSG C5

This is the first I've heard about the Bilsteins being very stiff. I heard they improve performance compared to stock OEM C5 shocks.

I also heard about how the C6Z06 shocks also work well for the C5.

Decisions, decisions...

RV13

Well, I have been living with the "pop" coming from the right side when going up inclined driveways at an angle for quite a while now. But I finally had time to look at the front right shock yesterday while I was replacing the starter (pain in the butt). I was able to tighten down the front right upper shock bolt 5 or 6 turns and now the "pop" is gone. Yippie. I probably should have replace the original rubber spacers when I replaced the shocks.

RonSSNova

Solofast disagrees with the Bilstein comments, I think he would know.

Ron


http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-question.html

Alludc

2004 c5z06 shocks, best bet. most $
c6z06 shocks awesome shock and my choice (and there are no fitment issues, or too long, or bottom out as some small rumors say. i autox and dd my car, and drive it hard, theyre perfect)
bilsteins, similar in feel to c6z's lil more $ but longer life. id still chose c6z.
konis, pfadts, etc if you want to get crazy.

OneBadLT123

I used the above "pull the plug" method and so far no codes either. I ended up going with the C6 Z06 shocks. My F45 shocks were junk, I could easily press them in without much effort, whereas the newer C6 ones were hell of a lot harder to push in.

RV13

Glad the plug method worked...I am still running without any issues and I am still happy with the performance of the C6Z06 shocks and C6Z51 sway bars. Now for my next purchase, MGW Short Shifter or a Vararam CAI.....decisions, decisions.

johnson-rod

Wow! It's really that simple?
Usually something that cheap and easy gets you in trouble down the road.
But as usual it seems worth a try.
Great post.