pics of my diy side skirts and front splitter / chin spoiler
03-11-2012, 07:21 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so im back on the forum. to answer some of the question:
there were two threads because it got removed the first time due to me offering to make them for people and im not a vendor. so i reposted the thread just to show people what they look like, and the next day i was banned from the forum. i spoke to them, and the thread and my access was reinstated. at this time, i cant offer these for sale on my thread until i become a vendor. if there are enough people that are interested in them, maybe ill go that route.
the wheels are donz columbo 20x10 rear and 20x8.5 front. custom painted matte black. they dont sell them like that. there is a thread if you search donz columbo under parts for sale, youll see a thread from d2 autosports. they were running a special on them for $1100 shipped. great deal and they are awesome to work with.
the stripe is painted by back mask under clear coat and then wet sanded the edges. yes, i had to repaint the entire top of the car and front and rear.
the material is 3/4" azek pvc board. it is used in construction as a rot free alternative to wood. it is flexible, but not enough to really bend around a corner. i started with a sheet of 4'x8' special ordered from a lumber yard. i made templates out of foam board, then cut the azek. i used the six mounting locations under the sides where the fiberglass is all held together (3 on each side), and drilled three additional holes on each side for a total of six mounting locations on each side. the front splitter is help on by the mounting locations of the right and left air dam pieces. i dont have them on my car anymore. i did keep the center air dam for the neccessary air flow to the radiator. then i drilled four holes in the underside of the front bumber to hold the front of the splitter against the bumber. these are the only four holes i used nuts and bolts instead of screws. i also used all stainless hardware underneath for a rust free finish. the edges of the board were routed and sanded to achieve the round edge. very messy and time consuming process. all in all, probably about a weeks worth of very hard work. probably 6-8 hours a day. im not trying to say its impossible, just have to have a real sense of perfection and patience. the board is very expensive and you wouldnt want to have to buy another piece. the pieces were then painted in my father's body shop using his gravity feed paint setup and ppg paint.
i dont have any shots from the underside, and the car is a pain to get in the air high enough to get any. i should have taken them while it was on jack stands, but i didnt think about it. i was also in a hurry to get it on the ground and be done with the project. i will try and get some of the front at least, i think i can get under there enough.
the car is lowered using a corvette lowering kit purchased from mid america motorworks. however, all it really is are longer grade 8 bolts for the rear end. in the front end, i just took out the rubber bushings on the torsion bars, and cut them down to about 1/8" and put them back. i dont suggest removing the bushing, as you never want metal on metal for a suspension part.
i think that was all the questions i have had so far, but feel free to pm me if you have any specific question and ill try to help you out the best i can. thanks for looking, and for all the interest, and the kind words.
there were two threads because it got removed the first time due to me offering to make them for people and im not a vendor. so i reposted the thread just to show people what they look like, and the next day i was banned from the forum. i spoke to them, and the thread and my access was reinstated. at this time, i cant offer these for sale on my thread until i become a vendor. if there are enough people that are interested in them, maybe ill go that route.
the wheels are donz columbo 20x10 rear and 20x8.5 front. custom painted matte black. they dont sell them like that. there is a thread if you search donz columbo under parts for sale, youll see a thread from d2 autosports. they were running a special on them for $1100 shipped. great deal and they are awesome to work with.
the stripe is painted by back mask under clear coat and then wet sanded the edges. yes, i had to repaint the entire top of the car and front and rear.
the material is 3/4" azek pvc board. it is used in construction as a rot free alternative to wood. it is flexible, but not enough to really bend around a corner. i started with a sheet of 4'x8' special ordered from a lumber yard. i made templates out of foam board, then cut the azek. i used the six mounting locations under the sides where the fiberglass is all held together (3 on each side), and drilled three additional holes on each side for a total of six mounting locations on each side. the front splitter is help on by the mounting locations of the right and left air dam pieces. i dont have them on my car anymore. i did keep the center air dam for the neccessary air flow to the radiator. then i drilled four holes in the underside of the front bumber to hold the front of the splitter against the bumber. these are the only four holes i used nuts and bolts instead of screws. i also used all stainless hardware underneath for a rust free finish. the edges of the board were routed and sanded to achieve the round edge. very messy and time consuming process. all in all, probably about a weeks worth of very hard work. probably 6-8 hours a day. im not trying to say its impossible, just have to have a real sense of perfection and patience. the board is very expensive and you wouldnt want to have to buy another piece. the pieces were then painted in my father's body shop using his gravity feed paint setup and ppg paint.
i dont have any shots from the underside, and the car is a pain to get in the air high enough to get any. i should have taken them while it was on jack stands, but i didnt think about it. i was also in a hurry to get it on the ground and be done with the project. i will try and get some of the front at least, i think i can get under there enough.
the car is lowered using a corvette lowering kit purchased from mid america motorworks. however, all it really is are longer grade 8 bolts for the rear end. in the front end, i just took out the rubber bushings on the torsion bars, and cut them down to about 1/8" and put them back. i dont suggest removing the bushing, as you never want metal on metal for a suspension part.
i think that was all the questions i have had so far, but feel free to pm me if you have any specific question and ill try to help you out the best i can. thanks for looking, and for all the interest, and the kind words.
Last edited by badger6299; 03-11-2012 at 08:46 PM.
03-14-2012, 07:11 AM
#26
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,873
Received 19,277 Likes
on
13,957 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Car looks great and you did a fantastic job making those pieces. 
03-19-2012, 07:49 PM
#36
Instructor
Thread Starter
Member Since: Jan 2012
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i used a single stage black dp primer with a mixture of black paint. the mixture gives it the matte finish. dp primer is very flat, so the paint mixed in gives it just a little shine and the added durability of single stage paint
