Aerovette

I have had an annoying growl that has gotten progressively worse. I diagnosed it to be the rear hub on the driver's side...ok, I didn't really "diagnose" it. I read a LOT of posts, did the left/right swerve thing, and took a Corvette Technician for a short ride.

I am just getting started and following this write up...


http://www.c5help.com/C5_Rear_Wheel_Bearing.htm

Item 2 reads as follows:

2.) Loosen and remove the axle nut w/ a 34mm Socket and breaker bar. DO NOT USE an impact wrench. If you do and it cross threads, donŐt come complaining to me. The torque required to break this nut will probably be minimal for bearing which have failed.


I am on the verge of snapping a breaker bar in half trying to loosen the nut. I am afraid I will and damage something in the process when me and the bar go flying. So based on the statement I highlighted, I am now wondering if my diagnosis is all wrong.

There is no play in the wheel when wiggled at 12 and 6. I used a pry bar under the tire and still don't feel play. I am wondering if this is a differential bearing and not at the wheel at all.

Any thoughts?

UPDATE: Ok, very daringly, I put the car in gear up in the air. I listened to the differential on both sides with a stethascope. Sounds ok.

I listened to the passenger side spindle with a stethascope and hear just a wooshing and the friction on the pads.
Sounds ok.

Moved to the driver's side an dthe sound is different. Slight rumble on the lower control arm and a rumble at the spindle near the ebrake cable.

Seems the diagnosis is supported. So how do I loosen this nut ? It is NOT recommended that an impact be used.

I have a 4 foot cheater on the breaker and the thing is going to snap !

red89c4

i have no idea what i am going to say is even close to actuality!!! does it have left handed threads? have to tried to turn it both directions?

just throwing a wild thought out there.

bumble-z

Use an impact wrench to remove.

Don't use the impact on the re install & don't over torque the nut.

If you bought the car used & think it may be possible that someone used loc tite on the threads... You may want to apply a SMALL amount of heat to the nut.
Good luck.

Aerovette

I moved up to a 3/4 drive breaker bar, but unfortunately even SEARS doesn't have a 3/4 drive 34mm socket. I used an adapter and summarily twisted it right in two. @&^% !!!

Parts store didn't have a socket either.

To the other poster, I checked the threads.

Righty-tighty ; lefty loosey applies

Oh well, try again tomorrow. Everything is closing and if Sears didn't have the socket I need, I'm not sure who would.

EVERY freakin thing I work on turns into a project from hell. It never fails. Putting air in a tire becomes an all day ordeal for some reason.

bumble-z

Go to a quality auto parts store, such as NAPA & get a 1/2" drive six point impact socket.

Go to Sears & get a high quality 1/2" drive impact wrench.
That nut will come off quite easily with it.

I have a Sears Professional 1/2" impact & that axle nut removal is a piece of cake.
Make things easy on yourself.
Good luck.

f6john

Since we are going under the assumption that the bearing is bad and the fact that a 4 foot breaker bar has not moved the nut I would resort to heat if it were my car. I would use a torch to heat the nut as much as I dared then I would douse it with water. I have used this method in the past and the rapid expansion and contraction will usually allow removal of the fastener.

Aerovette

I went to O'Riley's and their impact sockets only went to 27mm. I tried that at Sears as well. Sears did not have a 34mm for an impact. The socket I have is sold specifically as an axle nut socket.

bumble-z

NAPA is your friend.

Aerovette

True enough. I couldn't make it their by 9:00.

Back at it tomorrow. Thanks.

GCG

Just out of curiosity, are you sure is a 34mm nut?
I have always read it is 33mm...

Aerovette

Funny you say that because it does feel a bit loose but the write up I am referencing shows 34 and it happens to be the size that specifically is labeled in the store as an axle nut socket. I may pick up a 33, but it won't make it any more loose


Maybe someone else can chime in. For some reason I recall reading somewhere that the factory nut is 34 and the replacement is not. Sounds crazy.

Nope...verified

DORMAN Part # 615144 {#05107, 10257766, 6151441, 6502541} Thread: M27-2.0; Hex Size: 34mm; Height: 17mm
Category: Spindle Nut

bumble-z

I believe you are correct.

However, the 34mm in my tool box fits quite snug on that nut.

Turbopower87

The nut is 33mm. I was able to remove them with a $10 HF breaker bar and a little bit of muscle, no cheater necessary. Sorry I can't be of more help but I would definitely get a 33mm on there instead. If you get enough torque onto it you are just going to strip it and then you'll be in an even more difficult situation. Wait until you have the right tools to try it again.

Aerovette

Any idea why this one is so tight? The part decription for the nut ( I bought two new ones for the new hub install) clearly says it is a 34mm.
Regardless of 33 or 34 mm, I am using a cheater bar (floor jack handle) and a breaker bar and it is not even THINKING about moving.

I hate putting heat to it. I may have no option. It was saturated with liquid wrench 3 times before I even took a socket to it. I wire brushed the threads too.

OkieBikerDude

I had a rear hub bearing fail on a C2 while running down the Interstate at 75+ mph and the spindle got hot enough to weld the nut in place. A cutting torch was required by a professional to remove the nut and get the spindle out. I know that the C5 is different but when a hub bearing fails things can go bad, very quickly.

Good luck,

OBD

Aerovette

After a restless night thinking about this..here are a couple concerns.

I don't know at what point there will be a thread failure. My concern with an impact is that I will simply shear the threads inside the nut and be stuck like Chuck. because of that, I am going to go get 3/4 drive socket and a longer cheater pipe and go that route.

As for applying heat, I don't have an acetylene set up. Only a propane torch and the heat soak will be faster than any benefit the heat will provide. In other words, the heat will be slower and therefore heat the nut and halfshaft as a unit. Anyone disagree ?

If I still can't get any motion, I'll be asking for the name of a reputable shop in Houston that can get these off.

Now, what happens if I take it to a shop and they screw it up ?

If they strip it, or do some other damage, is that my dime?

GCG

I hear your pain... We probably belong to the same club! that's exactly what my wife says to me every time I'm doing something

I understand your concerns... Going the 3/4 route might be a safer next step. In any case, good luck and let us know how it goes.

Aerovette

SUCCESS !!! (well partially....see edit)

First and foremost **** GM !! The nut fits PERFECT as stated in another post, in a 33mm socket. look up part 10257766 for yourself and see that it is WRONG !

Secondly, I have only one word...

LEVERAGE !!

I bought a steel pipe 1 1/4 x 60" long and a 33mm 3/4 drive socket.

I crossed my fingers and started pushing. I was flexing a 3/4 breaker like a freaking BOW. Then I heard the musical sound of torque snap.

It's all good now. Thanks for the input from everyone.



Edit: The lower ball joint TURNS when I try to remove the nut !! WTF !!

Aerovette

More than one way to skin a cat. I took the spindle loose from the TOP ball joint and wrestled the half shaft out. That allowed me to access the top of the lower ball joint with an allen wrench to hold the ball joint in place while I loosened the nut. Back on course...for now.

GCG

I'm glad you finally managed to disassemble everything without more problems or damage and I see it was a 33mm nut after all, as I thought.

Good luck!