Headlight Motor Cover Question
10-30-2012, 12:47 PM
#1
Corvette C5 Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Headlight Motor Cover Question
I'm installing RadioFlyer's modified ACA's and although I'm not currently having any problems, I thought I would go ahead and replace the headlight motor gears at the same time. Appears much easier with the headlights completely out of the way.
Here's my question. The directions for the gears I have (through Mid-America) suggest I have to pry the gear cover off and then reglue. (I have a 2000 C5), however the cover on my setup is held on with 3 bolts. Am I missing something or was there a change from bolts to glued covers? Is there any reason I need to glue the cover if the cover is setup with bolts? Thanks for the assist.
Here's my question. The directions for the gears I have (through Mid-America) suggest I have to pry the gear cover off and then reglue. (I have a 2000 C5), however the cover on my setup is held on with 3 bolts. Am I missing something or was there a change from bolts to glued covers? Is there any reason I need to glue the cover if the cover is setup with bolts? Thanks for the assist.
10-30-2012, 05:38 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
You have the OLD STYLE motors
I'm installing RadioFlyer's modified ACA's and although I'm not currently having any problems, I thought I would go ahead and replace the headlight motor gears at the same time. Appears much easier with the headlights completely out of the way.
Here's my question. The directions for the gears I have (through Mid-America) suggest I have to pry the gear cover off and then reglue. (I have a 2000 C5), however the cover on my setup is held on with 3 bolts. Am I missing something or was there a change from bolts to glued covers? Is there any reason I need to glue the cover if the cover is setup with bolts? Thanks for the assist.
Here's my question. The directions for the gears I have (through Mid-America) suggest I have to pry the gear cover off and then reglue. (I have a 2000 C5), however the cover on my setup is held on with 3 bolts. Am I missing something or was there a change from bolts to glued covers? Is there any reason I need to glue the cover if the cover is setup with bolts? Thanks for the assist.
10-30-2012, 05:46 PM
#4
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I think the older gear cases were bolted together and the later ones were glued together. I know there was a small change in the design of the casings.
I also bought the brass gear replacement kit because it's not a matter of "if" the OEM nylon gears will fail, rather a question of "when".
When the time comes for me to swap out my gears, I plan to follow this excellent write-up by Patches...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...orialized.html
I also bought the brass gear replacement kit because it's not a matter of "if" the OEM nylon gears will fail, rather a question of "when".
When the time comes for me to swap out my gears, I plan to follow this excellent write-up by Patches...
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...orialized.html
Last edited by MSG C5; 10-30-2012 at 05:52 PM.
10-30-2012, 05:54 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '10-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
97 through some early production 2000's had the older aluminum case motors with the 3 screw covers. Later production 2000's through 2004 have the plastic motor case and the glued covers.
10-30-2012, 06:18 PM
#6
Racer
Bolted vs Glued headlight motors
I have a late '99 LS1. It has the later 2000 glued headlight motors. Apparently, GM used either motor during the switch over from the bolted to the glued motors. Unfortunately, each type has it's own specific framework requirement. When I finally discovered my '99 used the "glued" 2000 motor the replacement fit right in. Both motors use a 3 bolt mount, but, of course, they are different one from another.
To get at the gears in a glued motor you have to use something like a dremel tool to split open the case. (The older "non-glued" motor simply unbolts.) If you split the "glued" case you should glue (epoxy) it back together to keep debris from getting into the little gear case and causing additional failure. However, depending how well (neatly) you split the cases you will have a "kerf" (saw blade width) removed from the width of the case. This can/may affect the intersection of the worm/drive gear with the bull/output gear. You may have to insert a spacer washer on one side of the output shaft or the other to get the proper worm gear alignment..obviously, before you glue it back together. (Does GM want to sell replacement parts??? Durn right!)
Two better/easier(?) solutions; 1) replace both with new motor assemblies
, or, 2) do nothing until the motors tell you they have a problem. When that happens, go into the mechanism just far enough to disengage the swing arm on the headlight assembly - the one that raises to headlights - with the swing arm disengaged from the output drive shaft of the headlight drive motor, manually rotate the (the **** on the back of the motor) drive motor until the output shaft has rotated 180 degrees. Then reinstall the motor assembly onto the swing/actuating arm, button every thing up, and test. The most common point of failure is not the worm gear, but the output/bull gear. In actual usage the bull gear makes less than a 180 degree rotation. By rotating the output gear, as noted above, you actually bring a new/unused part of that gear into play. If you have experienced a "normal" headlight motor failure this solution gives you twice the life on a motor.
After that you will have to replace the output gear by de-glueing the case, etc., or, by a new or rebuilt headlight motor assembly.
If you are not having any problems with the headlight motors, I'd leave them alone. When you finally experience some problem, rotating the output shaft is about a 30 to 45 minute job per side. (2 hours for me because I'm fumble fingered and old and half blind.)
Hope this helps a little,
Best Regards,
Gunny John
To get at the gears in a glued motor you have to use something like a dremel tool to split open the case. (The older "non-glued" motor simply unbolts.) If you split the "glued" case you should glue (epoxy) it back together to keep debris from getting into the little gear case and causing additional failure. However, depending how well (neatly) you split the cases you will have a "kerf" (saw blade width) removed from the width of the case. This can/may affect the intersection of the worm/drive gear with the bull/output gear. You may have to insert a spacer washer on one side of the output shaft or the other to get the proper worm gear alignment..obviously, before you glue it back together. (Does GM want to sell replacement parts??? Durn right!)
Two better/easier(?) solutions; 1) replace both with new motor assemblies
, or, 2) do nothing until the motors tell you they have a problem. When that happens, go into the mechanism just far enough to disengage the swing arm on the headlight assembly - the one that raises to headlights - with the swing arm disengaged from the output drive shaft of the headlight drive motor, manually rotate the (the **** on the back of the motor) drive motor until the output shaft has rotated 180 degrees. Then reinstall the motor assembly onto the swing/actuating arm, button every thing up, and test. The most common point of failure is not the worm gear, but the output/bull gear. In actual usage the bull gear makes less than a 180 degree rotation. By rotating the output gear, as noted above, you actually bring a new/unused part of that gear into play. If you have experienced a "normal" headlight motor failure this solution gives you twice the life on a motor.After that you will have to replace the output gear by de-glueing the case, etc., or, by a new or rebuilt headlight motor assembly.
If you are not having any problems with the headlight motors, I'd leave them alone. When you finally experience some problem, rotating the output shaft is about a 30 to 45 minute job per side. (2 hours for me because I'm fumble fingered and old and half blind.)
Hope this helps a little,
Best Regards,
Gunny John
10-30-2012, 10:14 PM
#8
Safety Car
I have a late '99 LS1. It has the later 2000 glued headlight motors. Apparently, GM used either motor during the switch over from the bolted to the glued motors. Unfortunately, each type has it's own specific framework requirement. When I finally discovered my '99 used the "glued" 2000 motor the replacement fit right in. Both motors use a 3 bolt mount, but, of course, they are different one from another.
To get at the gears in a glued motor you have to use something like a dremel tool to split open the case. (The older "non-glued" motor simply unbolts.) If you split the "glued" case you should glue (epoxy) it back together to keep debris from getting into the little gear case and causing additional failure. However, depending how well (neatly) you split the cases you will have a "kerf" (saw blade width) removed from the width of the case. This can/may affect the intersection of the worm/drive gear with the bull/output gear. You may have to insert a spacer washer on one side of the output shaft or the other to get the proper worm gear alignment..obviously, before you glue it back together. (Does GM want to sell replacement parts??? Durn right!)
Two better/easier(?) solutions; 1) replace both with new motor assemblies, or, 2) do nothing until the motors tell you they have a problem. When that happens, go into the mechanism just far enough to disengage the swing arm on the headlight assembly - the one that raises to headlights - with the swing arm disengaged from the output drive shaft of the headlight drive motor, manually rotate the (the **** on the back of the motor) drive motor until the output shaft has rotated 180 degrees. Then reinstall the motor assembly onto the swing/actuating arm, button every thing up, and test. The most common point of failure is not the worm gear, but the output/bull gear. In actual usage the bull gear makes less than a 180 degree rotation. By rotating the output gear, as noted above, you actually bring a new/unused part of that gear into play. If you have experienced a "normal" headlight motor failure this solution gives you twice the life on a motor.
After that you will have to replace the output gear by de-glueing the case, etc., or, by a new or rebuilt headlight motor assembly.
If you are not having any problems with the headlight motors, I'd leave them alone. When you finally experience some problem, rotating the output shaft is about a 30 to 45 minute job per side. (2 hours for me because I'm fumble fingered and old and half blind.)
Hope this helps a little,
Best Regards,
Gunny John
To get at the gears in a glued motor you have to use something like a dremel tool to split open the case. (The older "non-glued" motor simply unbolts.) If you split the "glued" case you should glue (epoxy) it back together to keep debris from getting into the little gear case and causing additional failure. However, depending how well (neatly) you split the cases you will have a "kerf" (saw blade width) removed from the width of the case. This can/may affect the intersection of the worm/drive gear with the bull/output gear. You may have to insert a spacer washer on one side of the output shaft or the other to get the proper worm gear alignment..obviously, before you glue it back together. (Does GM want to sell replacement parts??? Durn right!)
Two better/easier(?) solutions; 1) replace both with new motor assemblies
, or, 2) do nothing until the motors tell you they have a problem. When that happens, go into the mechanism just far enough to disengage the swing arm on the headlight assembly - the one that raises to headlights - with the swing arm disengaged from the output drive shaft of the headlight drive motor, manually rotate the (the **** on the back of the motor) drive motor until the output shaft has rotated 180 degrees. Then reinstall the motor assembly onto the swing/actuating arm, button every thing up, and test. The most common point of failure is not the worm gear, but the output/bull gear. In actual usage the bull gear makes less than a 180 degree rotation. By rotating the output gear, as noted above, you actually bring a new/unused part of that gear into play. If you have experienced a "normal" headlight motor failure this solution gives you twice the life on a motor.After that you will have to replace the output gear by de-glueing the case, etc., or, by a new or rebuilt headlight motor assembly.
If you are not having any problems with the headlight motors, I'd leave them alone. When you finally experience some problem, rotating the output shaft is about a 30 to 45 minute job per side. (2 hours for me because I'm fumble fingered and old and half blind.)
Hope this helps a little,
Best Regards,
Gunny John
Thanks
10-31-2012, 12:24 AM
#9
Team Owner
Be sure to lube the pivot points for the headlight mechanism. Very important and likely neglected by most Vette owners. I do it about once a year and I currently have 180K+ miles on my OEM nylon gears which still work fine. I'm not going to say for 100% sure that by lubing is the reason I have gone this long on the OEMs, but I know it sure can't hurt either. 
Oh, and btw, yes I bought the car new and I drove it as a DD back and forth to work, including coming home at night every night when I got off work, so it has not been some garage queen or had gears replaced by some PO.
HTH
Oh, and btw, yes I bought the car new and I drove it as a DD back and forth to work, including coming home at night every night when I got off work, so it has not been some garage queen or had gears replaced by some PO.
HTH