Which Year C5 is the Most Reliable?
02-21-2013, 08:11 AM
#42
Instructor
2004 Z06 bought new that now has 61,200 miles on it. Took it back to the dealer for the column lock issue and it's never been back to the dealer again except for the electric passenger window lift going out. It's been very reliable and I just can't part with it.
Look closely at the cars history and maintenance records and if you can buy your C5 from the original owner that's a plus too, because you have a better grip on its history. In general, I would say buy the newest and lowest mileage C5 you can afford. I agree that the C5s are the most reliable, however, so far my C6 has done very well.
Look closely at the cars history and maintenance records and if you can buy your C5 from the original owner that's a plus too, because you have a better grip on its history. In general, I would say buy the newest and lowest mileage C5 you can afford. I agree that the C5s are the most reliable, however, so far my C6 has done very well.
10-30-2014, 05:41 PM
#45
My wife and I are soon going to be buying a C5 or one year or another. I was about to start a new thread with this one's exact title, so I thought it would be better to resurrect this one.
I only have a couple of additional questions to add to the ones already mentioned in this great thread.
First, I have recently driven a dealership's 2004 Z06. Its VIN falls within the range of VINs (Oct 8, 2003 45110258 -- March 18, 2004 45125500) that might or might not experience the fuel crossover/connector crack/leak that is descibed in the GM's "10150 Special Coverage Adjustment (August 13, 2010)". The documents the dealership gave me with regard to what has been done to the vehicle over the years give no indication that the "fix" has been perfomed on this vehicle. My question is simple. Should one buy this or any other vehicle whose VIN falls within the affected range if it can be definitively determined that it has not had this possible issue corrected by that, for lack of a better expression, "Adjustment"?
Second, as far as the Z06 goes, which years are the least likely to experience valve-spring failures and, to go along with this, is it possible, by using the increasingly ubiquitous optical examination probes, to determine whether the springs that are present in a particular vehicle are of a type or brand that are more prone to failure?
Thanks for the opportunity.
I only have a couple of additional questions to add to the ones already mentioned in this great thread.
First, I have recently driven a dealership's 2004 Z06. Its VIN falls within the range of VINs (Oct 8, 2003 45110258 -- March 18, 2004 45125500) that might or might not experience the fuel crossover/connector crack/leak that is descibed in the GM's "10150 Special Coverage Adjustment (August 13, 2010)". The documents the dealership gave me with regard to what has been done to the vehicle over the years give no indication that the "fix" has been perfomed on this vehicle. My question is simple. Should one buy this or any other vehicle whose VIN falls within the affected range if it can be definitively determined that it has not had this possible issue corrected by that, for lack of a better expression, "Adjustment"?
Second, as far as the Z06 goes, which years are the least likely to experience valve-spring failures and, to go along with this, is it possible, by using the increasingly ubiquitous optical examination probes, to determine whether the springs that are present in a particular vehicle are of a type or brand that are more prone to failure?
Thanks for the opportunity.
10-30-2014, 07:23 PM
#46
Drifting
Consumer Reports data shows the 2004 to be the most reliable, although all C5s score decently on their metrics.
Last edited by Koufax; 10-30-2014 at 07:24 PM. Reason: typo
10-30-2014, 10:25 PM
#49
Safety Car
I purchased my '97 (#502) almost eight years ago when it was ten years old. Maybe one of the first three owners fixed any issues as they came up. I don't know. I got minimal service records with the car.
I have had no problems except for the usual "rocking chair" syndrome, sticky fuel sending unit and dim HVAC display. Oil sending unit is still original. Also, one of the previous owners addressed the column-lock problem. The car now has almost 63K on it.
I know that I broke the rule of never buying the first year of a new model, and buying a car that's had three owners in ten years. However, my '97 has been very good to me so far. Hope it continues that way.
I have had no problems except for the usual "rocking chair" syndrome, sticky fuel sending unit and dim HVAC display. Oil sending unit is still original. Also, one of the previous owners addressed the column-lock problem. The car now has almost 63K on it.
I know that I broke the rule of never buying the first year of a new model, and buying a car that's had three owners in ten years. However, my '97 has been very good to me so far. Hope it continues that way.
10-30-2014, 10:28 PM
#50
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owned 2 '99's! damn good year!
After a number of years on this forum, I have come to realize a couple of things.
1. The first year of any generation of any car has bugs and glitches to be worked out after the cars finally become available to the masses and are exposed to all of the different uses to which people put them.
2. Mods change the entire question as it depends entirely on the expertise of the person doing/choosing the mods and how complimentary those mods are to each other. (Driveability & reliability)
So, this thread is basically about stock cars and those with mods which are basically cosmetic and don't significantly change the basic operation of the vehicle. Mods such as Cat-back exhaust, CAI's, ect.
Since our cars were introduced in '97 (which had numerous new-model issues) and then '98's which still had a few, and then progressed to the '99's (which I personally think had most of the issues worked out), after that, GM started making significant changes and upgrades.
We have all read the numerous posts as to issues with various members' cars (which to that particular owner were not minor or irrelevant).
It is my contention that the '99's are by far and away the most reliable and "sorted out" of all of the C5's!!
I have owned two of them now, and the only thing I have had to do to either of them is drive, enjoy, and provide routine maintenance to them. Any mods I have done have been purely by choice and never by neccessity.
I would like to hear other owners' opinions as to this topic and see just how many other years of C5's can match the flawless performance and reliability of the '99's.
I think that '99 was the magic high point of the C5, tell me what you think. (Caveat, we all know about diminishing parts availability as models get older, EBCM's, etc. I am not talking about these things.) I am talking about things such as the piston-slap/oil usage of the later engines and other factory attributable issues that effect the inherent reliability/owner satisfaction of a particular model year. I also understand that all of these changes were made in a sincere effort to improve our cars. It's just that things don't always work out the way they were envisioned.
Sooooo..... now, tell me what you think. I am anxious to here all viewpoints!!
DSTURBD
1. The first year of any generation of any car has bugs and glitches to be worked out after the cars finally become available to the masses and are exposed to all of the different uses to which people put them.
2. Mods change the entire question as it depends entirely on the expertise of the person doing/choosing the mods and how complimentary those mods are to each other. (Driveability & reliability)
So, this thread is basically about stock cars and those with mods which are basically cosmetic and don't significantly change the basic operation of the vehicle. Mods such as Cat-back exhaust, CAI's, ect.
Since our cars were introduced in '97 (which had numerous new-model issues) and then '98's which still had a few, and then progressed to the '99's (which I personally think had most of the issues worked out), after that, GM started making significant changes and upgrades.
We have all read the numerous posts as to issues with various members' cars (which to that particular owner were not minor or irrelevant).
It is my contention that the '99's are by far and away the most reliable and "sorted out" of all of the C5's!!
I have owned two of them now, and the only thing I have had to do to either of them is drive, enjoy, and provide routine maintenance to them. Any mods I have done have been purely by choice and never by neccessity.
I would like to hear other owners' opinions as to this topic and see just how many other years of C5's can match the flawless performance and reliability of the '99's.
I think that '99 was the magic high point of the C5, tell me what you think. (Caveat, we all know about diminishing parts availability as models get older, EBCM's, etc. I am not talking about these things.) I am talking about things such as the piston-slap/oil usage of the later engines and other factory attributable issues that effect the inherent reliability/owner satisfaction of a particular model year. I also understand that all of these changes were made in a sincere effort to improve our cars. It's just that things don't always work out the way they were envisioned.
Sooooo..... now, tell me what you think. I am anxious to here all viewpoints!!
DSTURBD
10-30-2014, 11:25 PM
#51
Burning Brakes
You, sir reside in the same golden zone in which I find myself. It was pure happenstance the first time around for me as to year of the car, but I am not blind to good fortune. Soooo, when I was looking for my next C5 and saw a black, Z51, coupe with upgraded interior, '99,.....I wasted not one second brfore doing my due research and diligence on the car prior to buying it and bringing it home!!!!!!
You, my friend should harbor no worries whatsoever!!!
DSTURBD
You, my friend should harbor no worries whatsoever!!!
DSTURBD
My response to the original question is, the one that doesn't break !!!!!I do share your statement though, when I began my search to buy a C5 I was looking for a Z06, and wasn't having any luck finding the right 'ONE', I ended up by chance at Tustin Chevrolet one night with the wife and kids and found what I wanted, a stock Torch Red, 99' Z51/FRC, all options, fairly low mileage, ran great, it's my love (next to the wife and kids of course) and then on my drive home with my new love (I couldn't stop smiling) I encountered a new BMW M3 and and smoked him. It's not the ultimate C5, but it doesn't matter, it's still the best looking model made with the best Aerodynamic styling that GM has done, even to this day. Sorry C6 and C7 owners, that's fact !! It's had a few of the normal gremlins, but overall it has been a VERY dependable car and it still makes me feel 'Good' driving it or having someone say, " Is that new". I gotta sign out, I could just keep going on. Those of us who own ANY model C5, knows what I am saying.
10-31-2014, 12:17 AM
#52
10-31-2014, 12:33 AM
#53
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10-31-2014, 01:51 AM
#54
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
There's a sticky on the valve springs failure. Here is the link:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-failures.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-failures.html
10-31-2014, 03:21 AM
#55
After being a mechanic for a number of years who made his rep by tackling electrical issues because of knowing how many other mechanics avoided them like the plague. I would make a couple of statements. Track down that grounding issue NOW!!!!! A bad ground causes voltage to go down, which causes amperage to go up!!! When amperage goes up, so does temperature. Temperature is what damages most electrical circuits. You could very well have a completely sound EBCM. However, a bad ground could give it a lethal heart attack if left undiagnosed!!
I don't begin to claim that I understand our computer components, but some electrical laws do not change.......when voltage goes down, amperage goes up. Did you ever wonder why your '60's hot rod's starter would stick in "crank" mode if you pushed a low battery while trying to start it? Heat made the contacts stick and they could not release when you let off of the key. It continued to crank until lots of things melted!!!!!! Not a fun situation!!
DSTURBD
I don't begin to claim that I understand our computer components, but some electrical laws do not change.......when voltage goes down, amperage goes up. Did you ever wonder why your '60's hot rod's starter would stick in "crank" mode if you pushed a low battery while trying to start it? Heat made the contacts stick and they could not release when you let off of the key. It continued to crank until lots of things melted!!!!!! Not a fun situation!!
DSTURBD
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...g+caused+wreck
I decided to cut out the ground terminals that are on the frame rails on both sides of the engine under the hoses and solder all the wires to washers instead.
These terminals on 2002 had only 20k miles but you can see them start to turn green slightly already.
This is an easy thing to do and probably a good start to try and fix grounding gremlins, or even something to do as a preventative measure.
I also added a Big 3 kit for my 1100 watt rms stereo and it has an extra big ground wire as well that helps smooth out the circuitry.
It seems the only was to permanently turn off the AH is to disconnect the SWPS steering wheel sensor which throws a code but if you are having problems that is better than your car randomly trying to kill you!
Turning it off at the console does not prevent it from acting up while driving.
Last edited by StrangelovesM6Vert; 10-31-2014 at 03:50 AM.
10-31-2014, 03:45 AM
#56
Race Director
I got a chance to drive my brothers 99 Vette FRC when it was fairly new and I just couldn't imagine a better all around car...............
I picked up a high mileage 1997 Corvette about 18 months ago for 11k and its been regular maintenance until about two weeks ago when it started making some kind of noise. The car runs fine and the noise goes away when the car gets hot
I picked up a high mileage 1997 Corvette about 18 months ago for 11k and its been regular maintenance until about two weeks ago when it started making some kind of noise. The car runs fine and the noise goes away when the car gets hot
10-31-2014, 09:34 PM
#58
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St. Jude Donor '16-'17,'22,'24
When I was buying the almost unanimous advice from this forum was
"buy the newest, lowest mileage, best condition C5 you can afford" I don't see why that's changed. My vote, 2004.
"buy the newest, lowest mileage, best condition C5 you can afford" I don't see why that's changed. My vote, 2004.
10-31-2014, 10:02 PM
#59
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I look at it this way. They're all C5's and there's no clear winner. If your not happy with the model year C5 you own, then switch it out for one you "feel" is a better example. I love my 2000 and feel it represents that model year quite well for reliability. The next guy who owns a 2000 might not share the same opinion and that goes for any model year.
11-01-2014, 12:18 AM
#60
If the repair was done by GM at their cost under the "adjustment" then it would show in the GMVIS for the vehicle. I don't know exactly what the dealer showed you but it very possibly was the GMVIS for the car. If the repair was not listed then the failure 1) has not yet occurred or 2) the failure occurred and a previous owner paid out of pocket and never went back to GM for reimbursement. GM did not own up to the problem until mid 2010 despite knowing about it many years earlier. Entirely possible that some owners paid out of pocket and had sold the car before GM offered reimbursement to owners that had paid out of pocket. 
The car is now past the 10 year or 100K mile (which ever occurred first) extended warranty that GM provided for VIN's in the affected range, so IF/WHEN a failure occurs, it will be payed for by the then present owner and NOT GM.
Can't comment on the valve spring issue.
The car is now past the 10 year or 100K mile (which ever occurred first) extended warranty that GM provided for VIN's in the affected range, so IF/WHEN a failure occurs, it will be payed for by the then present owner and NOT GM.
Can't comment on the valve spring issue.
There's a sticky on the valve springs failure. Here is the link:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-failures.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-failures.html
===========
For my wife and I -- a dedicated DIYr -- I'm starting to think that the finanically "safest" C5s to buy would be one of the following, listed in their order of financial "safety" (greatest inherent reliability) from best to "iffyest".
1. A 2001 or 2002 automatic. (Easier to service/replace fuel tank innards with virtually no chance of crossover cracking/leakage. EBCM can be repaired. No clutch replacement. Reliable GM automatic transmission. But not as much fun as a manual, IMO.)
2. A low-km 2001 Z06. (For same reasons as above, along with low/normal risk/likelihood of valve spring failure. But rather expensive clutch replacement at some point down the road.)
3. A low-km, 2002 to mid-2003 Z06 that has already had its valve springs replaced. (All reasons as above, along with normal low possibility of future valve spring failure and possible resulting engine damage. Again, if the fuel tank innards need service or replacement, this is a pretty straightforward job without lowering the tanks. )
4. A post-fuel-tank/crossover-VIN 2004 C5 manual or Z06, (Reduced possibility of of tank/crossover failure/leakage in the future, but a manual transmission allows fuel tanks to be lowered for their innards' servicing or replacement should it become necessary without lowering rear drivetrain; still probably a real PIA, but doable for the DIYr.)
5. A low-km, mid-2003 to last-affected-2004-VIN C5 automatic, manual or Z06 that has already had the fuel tank/crossover "adjustment" performed and, in the case of the Z06, if it's an '03, its valve springs already replaced; if it's an '04, springs are probably already low risk.
Because I'm so bone ignorant on the C5, I'd welcome any to hear any other possible candidates as the most financiallly safe C5. At least I'm starting to understand the kinds of major issues that any buyer should know about before they seriously consider any C5 vehicle.
Edit And because I'm still learning, unless it can be proven that it has been re-ringed, I'm scratching off number 2 for the following reason:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ml?forum_id=49
In my 48 years of driving, I've never owned a vehicle that had anywhere close to that kind of oil consumption. I definitely don't want to start now, nor do I want to pay for a re-ring.
Last edited by Tony1M; 11-01-2014 at 11:39 AM.
