rebuilding the LS1?
05-17-2013, 11:27 AM
#21
Drifting
i did some research on this company after the azzclown called me a moron, seems they have many unhappy customers, he did me a favor.
Southwest Engines , do not use them!
below is the holes reply
ok moron
Thank You,
Parts Department - ext.3
_________________________
Tel. 866-319-1058
Southwest Engines , do not use them!
below is the holes reply
ok moron
Thank You,
Parts Department - ext.3
_________________________
Tel. 866-319-1058
05-17-2013, 11:43 AM
#22
Melting Slicks
Nobody is going to be able to do a cylinder hone or mill the deck and heads in their garage. Have a machine shop do the hone, and check the deck and heads for flatness. Everything else is cake, and can be done at home. Get a service manual, and there are plenty of how-to's.
05-17-2013, 11:56 AM
#24
Race Director
Thanks, I am in no hurry, I am hoping mine will not be to damaged, I will see after I pull it. I responded to the guy at Southwest motors that 46K was too many miles for me but thanks, he replies back " OK moron" Now I would buy a bolt from that azzclown, what kind of way is that to do business? I for sure looking at letting engalnd hook me up, just not sure what yet.
My current motor has 435 RWHP , I want to at least be there, if not a tad more....
My current motor has 435 RWHP , I want to at least be there, if not a tad more....
05-17-2013, 12:00 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
Nobody is going to be able to do a cylinder hone or mill the deck and heads in their garage. Have a machine shop do the hone, and check the deck and heads for flatness. Everything else is cake, and can be done at home. Get a service manual, and there are plenty of how-to's.
I have honed 3 SBC in my garage and 1 in my kitchen.
Rings seated fine in all of them. Just need a good drill.
Aluminum heads do need to go to a shop to be surfaced.
05-17-2013, 12:14 PM
#26
Melting Slicks
I wouldn't use anything but a cnc to hone the cylinders on any car. A drill is kind of a hack job way of doing it if you ask me, but many people have had success with it.
05-17-2013, 12:18 PM
#27
Burning Brakes
each is his own... I raced one of the engines for years.
It all depends on why you are rebuilding it. If a cylinder is scored then yes a machine
shop is need. I think a drill with a good high quality hone will do a very good job and
last for years.
It all depends on why you are rebuilding it. If a cylinder is scored then yes a machine
shop is need. I think a drill with a good high quality hone will do a very good job and
last for years.
05-17-2013, 12:19 PM
#28
Drifting
I disagree with that..with anything if you take your time and pay attention with what goes where..the ls1 is really a simple push rod v8 motor...there are plenty of how to's and books one can buy plus not to mention the forum...and who know's along the way you might learn a few new hidden talents along the way..
I watched my brother who has never installed a cam on anything with very little knowledge install a cam in his 2002 Camaro Z28 with the LS1....not only did he do it right, the car runs amazingly well with zero issues..he took his time and he pay attention to what went were...
I watched my brother who has never installed a cam on anything with very little knowledge install a cam in his 2002 Camaro Z28 with the LS1....not only did he do it right, the car runs amazingly well with zero issues..he took his time and he pay attention to what went were...
05-17-2013, 12:24 PM
#29
Safety Car
Member Since: Aug 2007
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Eg...
EnglandGreen....seems the most practical way to go. He knows your engine, and you're right there, (wish I were). Good luck....
05-17-2013, 12:34 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
I would not go with a stock ls1... I would get the newest ls I could afford and then build from there. Now is the time to make the monster you always wanted.
05-17-2013, 12:47 PM
#32
We have everything from stock replacement to all forged stroker motors with a HUGE selection of blocks, crankshafts, rods, ect in stock. If we dont have it on the floor we can build it in 10-21 days in most cases. We have up to a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty on our motors and our customer service is 2nd to none. Feel free to call us if you need any help with your new motor.
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-0518
Thompson Motorsports
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-0518
Thompson Motorsports
05-17-2013, 02:47 PM
#33
Race Director
i did some research on this company after the azzclown called me a moron, seems they have many unhappy customers, he did me a favor.
Southwest Engines , do not use them!
below is the holes reply
ok moron
Thank You,
Parts Department - ext.3
_________________________
Tel. 866-319-1058
Southwest Engines , do not use them!
below is the holes reply
ok moron
Thank You,
Parts Department - ext.3
_________________________
Tel. 866-319-1058
lot of junkyards have this problem. the good ones have an easy return policy but some sure don't. in most cases those guys don't have the first clue as to the condition of the engines they are selling. a good yard will provide cylinder leakdown numbers showing you what you're buying.
i would be leary as hell buying any engine based on miles. people lie, clusters get swapped and you have no clue how the miles were put on even if they are accurate.
05-17-2013, 07:29 PM
#34
Safety Car
I agree to a point... But you still have the whole top end to deal with as well as all the accessories on the front of the block... Not to mention the machine shop will do all the work and tell you what size of items to order.. Its pretty simple.. Like I said.. With anything as long as one takes their time.. Building engines are easy.. Esp the ls engines!
05-17-2013, 10:09 PM
#35
Safety Car
The goal of a ball or flex hone is to break the glaze. You don't use them to size the cylinder. They are very effective for new rings in a used bore.
As far as decking, you would only deck the block if it were damaged, or for some reason out of square with the crank. My guess is stock, they are just fine, cleaning only needed. Careful cleaning if an alum block. Also, the pistons in these engines stick up above the deck on average of .007". So if you deck one, better cut very little or you will be looking for thick head gaskets.
As far as decking, you would only deck the block if it were damaged, or for some reason out of square with the crank. My guess is stock, they are just fine, cleaning only needed. Careful cleaning if an alum block. Also, the pistons in these engines stick up above the deck on average of .007". So if you deck one, better cut very little or you will be looking for thick head gaskets.
05-18-2013, 12:47 AM
#36
Melting Slicks
We have everything from stock replacement to all forged stroker motors with a HUGE selection of blocks, crankshafts, rods, ect in stock. If we dont have it on the floor we can build it in 10-21 days in most cases. We have up to a 1 year unlimited mileage warranty on our motors and our customer service is 2nd to none. Feel free to call us if you need any help with your new motor.
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-0518
Thompson Motorsports
Thank you,
Kyle
972-853-0518
Thompson Motorsports
05-18-2013, 07:17 AM
#37
Team Owner
Speaking from the perspective of BTDT
yes it is $$$$ but looking at the big picture if you plan on keeping the car it is still less than a years payments on a new one.
your LS1 block is probably toast and the internals probably have some issues so....
do what I did....ask yourself...."self what do I want to do with this car?"
Answer: I want a dependable driver with some power at least what I had before.
How much do I want to spend?
Answer: (in your head) as little as possible but you know that won't work jackass so suck it up
Answer: my options are GM crate motor can be had for about $6K depending on which one and it can be dropped in with a warranty..the LSX376 is nice and is ready for FI if I want to do that
Answer part2: buy a new LS6 block and go with forged internals and have it built with a nice cam for about the same $$
I did option #2 and it allowed me to keep my Maggie and I picked up some HP.
Good luck Bill....its never easy
your LS1 block is probably toast and the internals probably have some issues so....
do what I did....ask yourself...."self what do I want to do with this car?"
Answer: I want a dependable driver with some power at least what I had before.
How much do I want to spend?
Answer: (in your head) as little as possible but you know that won't work jackass so suck it up
Answer: my options are GM crate motor can be had for about $6K depending on which one and it can be dropped in with a warranty..the LSX376 is nice and is ready for FI if I want to do that
Answer part2: buy a new LS6 block and go with forged internals and have it built with a nice cam for about the same $$
I did option #2 and it allowed me to keep my Maggie and I picked up some HP.
Good luck Bill....its never easy
05-18-2013, 07:21 AM
#38
Team Owner
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Member Since: Jan 2004
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15, '19
yes it is $$$$ but looking at the big picture if you plan on keeping the car it is still less than a years payments on a new one.
your LS1 block is probably toast and the internals probably have some issues so....
do what I did....ask yourself...."self what do I want to do with this car?"
Answer: I want a dependable driver with some power at least what I had before.
How much do I want to spend?
Answer: (in your head) as little as possible but you know that won't work jackass so suck it up
Answer: my options are GM crate motor can be had for about $6K depending on which one and it can be dropped in with a warranty..the LSX376 is nice and is ready for FI if I want to do that
Answer part2: buy a new LS6 block and go with forged internals and have it built with a nice cam for about the same $$
I did option #2 and it allowed me to keep my Maggie and I picked up some HP.
Good luck Bill....its never easy
your LS1 block is probably toast and the internals probably have some issues so....
do what I did....ask yourself...."self what do I want to do with this car?"
Answer: I want a dependable driver with some power at least what I had before.
How much do I want to spend?
Answer: (in your head) as little as possible but you know that won't work jackass so suck it up
Answer: my options are GM crate motor can be had for about $6K depending on which one and it can be dropped in with a warranty..the LSX376 is nice and is ready for FI if I want to do that
Answer part2: buy a new LS6 block and go with forged internals and have it built with a nice cam for about the same $$
I did option #2 and it allowed me to keep my Maggie and I picked up some HP.
Good luck Bill....its never easy
lot of junkyards have this problem. the good ones have an easy return policy but some sure don't. in most cases those guys don't have the first clue as to the condition of the engines they are selling. a good yard will provide cylinder leakdown numbers showing you what you're buying.
i would be leary as hell buying any engine based on miles. people lie, clusters get swapped and you have no clue how the miles were put on even if they are accurate.
i would be leary as hell buying any engine based on miles. people lie, clusters get swapped and you have no clue how the miles were put on even if they are accurate.
Last edited by mojo1; 05-18-2013 at 07:25 AM.
05-20-2013, 01:56 PM
#39
Don't be scared.
If you can rebuild a gen 1 small block, you can do an LSx. It's an engine. They are all essentially the same. I freshened mine up last summer, honed it with a drill in my garage and cleaned up the surfaces of the block and heads with a large wet rock. Even flycut my pistons myself using the LS1 tech sandpaper method for the new cam. I did drop off the rods at the machine shop to get resized for ARP bolts, however. Anyway, it's been daily driven for about 8,000 miles since and spun up past 7k rpms without any problems.
If you can rebuild a gen 1 small block, you can do an LSx. It's an engine. They are all essentially the same. I freshened mine up last summer, honed it with a drill in my garage and cleaned up the surfaces of the block and heads with a large wet rock. Even flycut my pistons myself using the LS1 tech sandpaper method for the new cam. I did drop off the rods at the machine shop to get resized for ARP bolts, however. Anyway, it's been daily driven for about 8,000 miles since and spun up past 7k rpms without any problems.
06-23-2013, 06:19 AM
#40
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15, '19
Motor is out,finally, I will pull the heads in the next week or two to see what it looks like. Sooner or later it will make its way back to englandgreen. It was actually pretty fun pulling it, the only hold up was the top 2 bolts on the housing, man they were hard to get too, finally was able to up to stick an air ratchet up there and get them out. 
