Related JackingUp question to tell AutoShop Prior to lifting C5
06-21-2013, 10:02 AM
#1
Related JackingUp question to tell AutoShop Prior to lifting C5
What do you suggest to AutoMechanics that may not be familiar with putting a 01 C5 on a lift prior to doing so? I posted a response on another thread but it really wasn't related. I didn't want to elaborate on another thread topic and hijack it towards my question. I just want to be sure nothing negative happens prior to taking car there. This is the situation;
I have a rotor/pad install, painting calipers coming up this Sunday. Vet is scheduled to remain on the lift all day. The mechanic that is doing it is not Chevy Vet Dealer, just regular mechanics at the local auto repair shop. I would think they know what they are doing but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Am I to understand that of they place it on a lift they may damage something on the body? Does it positively without question need this puck, aluminum rail stuff or can the Vet carefully, cautiously be lifted without causing damage?
This morning I did call for the pucks/rails but cannot get them here overnight so without paying through the nose
Other then telling them to be careful any other suggestions? Use a 2x4 or ?
That's all I need to break my heart the guys un intentionally damage or crack the fiberglass or something worse like drop the car
It's appreciated. Thank you for your post response.
I have a rotor/pad install, painting calipers coming up this Sunday. Vet is scheduled to remain on the lift all day. The mechanic that is doing it is not Chevy Vet Dealer, just regular mechanics at the local auto repair shop. I would think they know what they are doing but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Am I to understand that of they place it on a lift they may damage something on the body? Does it positively without question need this puck, aluminum rail stuff or can the Vet carefully, cautiously be lifted without causing damage?
This morning I did call for the pucks/rails but cannot get them here overnight so without paying through the nose
Other then telling them to be careful any other suggestions? Use a 2x4 or ? That's all I need to break my heart the guys un intentionally damage or crack the fiberglass or something worse like drop the car
It's appreciated. Thank you for your post response.
Last edited by PeterB; 06-21-2013 at 10:04 AM.
06-21-2013, 10:24 AM
#2
Tech Contributor
When I lift mine I stick a floor jack under the rear.
From between the muffler tips.
This will lift the car enough so that the guy at the shop can get the lift under the car.
Go to a sports store and buy 4 hockey pucks. Works just as good as anything for the 4x side jacking locations. Ones made in Canada are the best....
Go to Home Depot to get some Eye Screws. This is optional.
You don't REALLY need the eye screws. They are just used to hold the puck up under the car.
You can sit the pucks on the guys lift, and center them to the jacking location before he lifts it.
Then screw the eye screws into the pucks like below.
From between the muffler tips.
This will lift the car enough so that the guy at the shop can get the lift under the car.
Go to a sports store and buy 4 hockey pucks. Works just as good as anything for the 4x side jacking locations. Ones made in Canada are the best....
Go to Home Depot to get some Eye Screws. This is optional.
You don't REALLY need the eye screws. They are just used to hold the puck up under the car.
You can sit the pucks on the guys lift, and center them to the jacking location before he lifts it.
Then screw the eye screws into the pucks like below.
06-21-2013, 10:31 AM
#4
Thanks Mark for your super post response. Props to you.
I understand if your lifting it in the driveway does that also apply to commercial lifts, you know like they have at all the auto shops with the two adjustable fingers on each side you still need pucks/rails? If you don't what happens those openings collapse?
Sure I can do that today with your diagram it doesn't look that complicated. Thank you.
I understand if your lifting it in the driveway does that also apply to commercial lifts, you know like they have at all the auto shops with the two adjustable fingers on each side you still need pucks/rails? If you don't what happens those openings collapse?
Sure I can do that today with your diagram it doesn't look that complicated. Thank you.
Last edited by PeterB; 06-21-2013 at 10:33 AM.
06-21-2013, 10:41 AM
#5
Tech Contributor
Thanks Mark for your super post response. Props to you.
I understand if your lifting it in the driveway does that also apply to commercial lifts, you know like they have at all the auto shops with the two adjustable fingers on each side you still need pucks/rails? If you don't what happens those openings collapse?
Sure I can do that today with your diagram it doesn't look that complicated. Thank you.
I understand if your lifting it in the driveway does that also apply to commercial lifts, you know like they have at all the auto shops with the two adjustable fingers on each side you still need pucks/rails? If you don't what happens those openings collapse?
Sure I can do that today with your diagram it doesn't look that complicated. Thank you.
At a service shop.
Jack up the rear of the car with a jack.
That will give room under the car to swing the shops lift fingers under the car.
Put a puck on all 4 fingers and line it up under the car's jacking location.
Or... if you have the eye screw on the puck then insert into your frame.
Then lift slowly and ensure that the pucks are in there proper place.
Make sense ?
Toque
06-21-2013, 10:45 AM
#7
Tech Contributor
I have the A&A frame savers. They don't cover the frame tie down holes like other frame rail savers do. If you ever have to be towed these holes are left open with the A&A rocker rails.
You can still jack the car in the normal jacking locations and do not need pucks. Easy when getting service done at a shop too.
I lift my car every weekend on these rails to clean my car.
And they stick down slightly lower than the painted rocker. So they help to protect your paint.
http://www.aacorvette.com/performanc...btqvb881fs75h3
You can see the HOLE in the frame above. Your going to have 2 holes on each side of the car (Front/REar).
That is the location that the Pucks will sit when the shop lifts your car.
Toque
You can still jack the car in the normal jacking locations and do not need pucks. Easy when getting service done at a shop too.
I lift my car every weekend on these rails to clean my car.
And they stick down slightly lower than the painted rocker. So they help to protect your paint.
http://www.aacorvette.com/performanc...btqvb881fs75h3
You can see the HOLE in the frame above. Your going to have 2 holes on each side of the car (Front/REar).
That is the location that the Pucks will sit when the shop lifts your car.
Toque
06-21-2013, 10:51 AM
#8
Yeah, very nice! Those other ones are $250. Like everything else Bill does it 1st class. I'm going to opt to save a few bucks on this one, thanks pal. I just called AA they're in SCali wouldn't get here until Tuesday. Its on my future bucket list Sunday it's puck time for the guys at the auto shop. They're letting me do it on a Sunday so I can treat and paint calipers so its going to be a all day ordeal. Beats jacking it here 
Last edited by PeterB; 06-21-2013 at 11:07 AM.
06-21-2013, 10:54 AM
#9
Tech Contributor
I just called AA they're in SCali wouldn't get here until Tuesday. Its on my future bucket list Sunday it's puck time for the guys at the auto shop... They're letting me do it on a Sunday so I can treat and paint calipers so its going to be a all day ordeal. Beats jacking it here
No need for pucks anymore, and easy to stick you jack under there to lift in the future !
Use the pucks on Sunday ... .
Toque
06-21-2013, 11:00 AM
#10
Tech Contributor
These are some other frame rail savers.
The issue I have with these is that they completely cover the holes in the frame.
A tow truck would need to connect to something secure to hold your car firmly.
These holes are better to connect to rather than connecting to your suspension, or who knows what a tow truck might try to connect to.
I like the A&A ones better because they do not cover the frame holes.
Just my opinion though....
The issue I have with these is that they completely cover the holes in the frame.
A tow truck would need to connect to something secure to hold your car firmly.
These holes are better to connect to rather than connecting to your suspension, or who knows what a tow truck might try to connect to.
I like the A&A ones better because they do not cover the frame holes.
Just my opinion though....
Amen brother! We use better rubber up here...
06-21-2013, 02:20 PM
#13
Tech Contributor
06-21-2013, 05:29 PM
#16
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Member Since: Jun 2012
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I made the exact same pucks that Mark did. Difference being I learned the hard way and had a jack slip one day and shattered my fender. Expensive lesson learned lol
06-21-2013, 06:08 PM
#17
Tech Contributor
06-22-2013, 01:13 AM
#19
Instructor
These are some other frame rail savers.
The issue I have with these is that they completely cover the holes in the frame.
A tow truck would need to connect to something secure to hold your car firmly.
These holes are better to connect to rather than connecting to your suspension, or who knows what a tow truck might try to connect to.
I like the A&A ones better because they do not cover the frame holes.
Just my opinion though....
The issue I have with these is that they completely cover the holes in the frame.
A tow truck would need to connect to something secure to hold your car firmly.
These holes are better to connect to rather than connecting to your suspension, or who knows what a tow truck might try to connect to.
I like the A&A ones better because they do not cover the frame holes.
Just my opinion though....
06-22-2013, 04:52 AM
#20
Tech Contributor
I just hope I never need to get towed....
Toque