Easy A/C belt replacement?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Easy A/C belt replacement?
As the title states, does anybody have any tips for easily changing the A/C belt from above? I don't have a way to get under mine right now and don't want to give the dealership $170.00 to change a $20.00 belt. They want to use theirs and want $82.00 for it!!!!!
DSTURBD
DSTURBD
#3
Instructor
I am with you guys on this one. I bought both belts last fall. I still have the small one sitting on the tool box as i couldn't figure out how to get to it. I will put in on in a couple of weeks when i install headers. If there is a simple way to do it, i sure couldn't figure it out.
#4
I'm not entirely sure it can be done from above. I did install a new a/c belt but the brain has a way of blacking out very bad incidents. This belt is a biotch.
I remember trying it from above and below and sideways. I think the final result was a combination of all three. The final thing was to remove the bolt holding either the compressor or the tensioner, putting the belt on and then pushing the bolt back home and start turning. I remember it was a relief when the treads bit and pulled everything together. It's been on now for 5 years. I'll sell the car before I change that belt again.
You guys are in my prayers. Good luck.
I remember trying it from above and below and sideways. I think the final result was a combination of all three. The final thing was to remove the bolt holding either the compressor or the tensioner, putting the belt on and then pushing the bolt back home and start turning. I remember it was a relief when the treads bit and pulled everything together. It's been on now for 5 years. I'll sell the car before I change that belt again.
You guys are in my prayers. Good luck.
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
WOW!!! Not encouraging, but at least I'm not alone, LOL!!!!
I was a mechanic for years and I guess I got really spoiled with having a lift to do stuff like this. That was many, many years ago though and all of the Snap On tools I had got me through my post-divorce costs and bills. Sure wish I still had them now!!!
Hang in there guys and we'll get through it!!
Thanks for the replies!!
DSTURBD
I was a mechanic for years and I guess I got really spoiled with having a lift to do stuff like this. That was many, many years ago though and all of the Snap On tools I had got me through my post-divorce costs and bills. Sure wish I still had them now!!!
Hang in there guys and we'll get through it!!
Thanks for the replies!!
DSTURBD
#7
Safety Car
i did it from the top with some of the hoses out of the way. it was very difficult. i probably made 50 attempts before it finally went on. it seemed like if the belt was just a fraction longer, it would go on easier but still have the proper tension. i tried from below also but that was a no go for me. i still don't know exactly how i did it. for the amount of cussing and frustration it may be worth paying somebody.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for all of the replies, guys!!! Still looking for more. Surely someone out there has stumbled upon a secret!?!?!?!? Bring on the ideas guys!!
DSTURBD
DSTURBD
#9
Le Mans Master
It was easy when I did mine, but had rad, fans, and water pump out. I tried from top and bottom, but think i did most from top. Thre is a how to video on YouTube, and think he does from bottom.
#10
Drifting
I'm not sure it is the worth the effort to try it from the top - the main belt can be done easily from the top but the a/c belt not so much.
But as has already been said it can be done fairly easily from the bottom, and you don't need to get the car off the floor much to do it. All you have to do is get the front end up about a foot. Drive on ramps, stacked 2x6s, or jack and jack stands are ways most do it if you don't have a lift. If your car has the Z51 option, there is a small power steering cooler that is somewhat in the way but it can still be done without much effort.
But as has already been said it can be done fairly easily from the bottom, and you don't need to get the car off the floor much to do it. All you have to do is get the front end up about a foot. Drive on ramps, stacked 2x6s, or jack and jack stands are ways most do it if you don't have a lift. If your car has the Z51 option, there is a small power steering cooler that is somewhat in the way but it can still be done without much effort.
#11
Race Director
I'm not sure it is the worth the effort to try it from the top - the main belt can be done easily from the top but the a/c belt not so much.
But as has already been said it can be done fairly easily from the bottom, and you don't need to get the car off the floor much to do it. All you have to do is get the front end up about a foot. Drive on ramps, stacked 2x6s, or jack and jack stands are ways most do it if you don't have a lift. If your car has the Z51 option, there is a small power steering cooler that is somewhat in the way but it can still be done without much effort.
But as has already been said it can be done fairly easily from the bottom, and you don't need to get the car off the floor much to do it. All you have to do is get the front end up about a foot. Drive on ramps, stacked 2x6s, or jack and jack stands are ways most do it if you don't have a lift. If your car has the Z51 option, there is a small power steering cooler that is somewhat in the way but it can still be done without much effort.
I have a Z51 and it does make it tight,,,, but from below is the only way to go!
#12
Drifting
I found this write up either on this forum or another one about 8 years ago and used it when I changed both belts on my 98 A4.
If I recall, it was pain in the backside, but doable.
---------------------------------------
I have an A4 which seems to have a different setup than the M6. The only real difference is the cooling lines that cross infront of the a/c tension pully. I used a 15 MM socket to do all of the work. I also did everything from the top of the motor. You will need an offset socket handle to deal with the a/c belt. A regular socket wrench hits the water pump pulley so you need a flexible wrench.
The first step is to remove the large serpentine belt this is pretty straight forward. Simply put the socket wrench on the belt tension pulley located on the passenger side at the top of the motor. Push the wrench towards the drivers side of the motor and the belt will slip off pretty easy. Remove the belt from the motor. I have a 2000 which has a large ABS pump so I had to do some twisting of the belt to get it out from between the power steering pulley and the abs pump.
With that out of the way it is time to tackle the a/c belt. The belt runs from the a/c compressor and the drive shaft pulley and is squeezed tight between two pulley's. The lower pulley is the one that needs to be moved to relieve the tension.
On mine there are two steel cooling lines that cross right in front of the tension pulley bolt. There is a clip holds the two lines together. I popped the clip off one of the lines and was able to spread them apart enough to get the socket onto the bold. I had to put the socket on the bolt first and then insert the handle.
This is where you need to use the offset handle. Put the handle on and push the wrench towards the drivers side. The tension will relieve and you will be able to slip the belt off with relative ease. (the keyword being relative).
Ok that's the easy part. at the point you should have all the belts off.
At this point I took a wire brush and cleaned all the pulleys. This seems to be one of the key reasons why belts squeal. GM also advises against belt dressing. So I didn't use any.
Putting the a/c belt on is where the challenge came.
Slip the a/c belt onto the drive shaft pulley first. I then put the belt OVER the tensioner pulley. I also put the belt OVER the upper guide pulley. this allowed enough tension for me to slip the belt over the ac compressor.
Now after much trial and error I learned that it was smart to close my eyes and use my fingers to follow the path of the belt and make sure that it is on the drive shaft pulley all the way around. There is NO room for error. If it is off by the smallest amount the rest of this project is a nightmare.
Once you are sure that the belt is on its track it's time to reattach the socket and handle. Relieve the tension again and start to work the belt under the upper pulley. To visualize this the belt will be in an hourglass shape as it follows its path. This is where I had my biggest problem. I thought I had pushed the tensioner as far as it would go, but I still couldn't get enough slack to slip the upper part of the belt into place. Finally I pushed just a little further. The belt slipped into place and that was all she wrote. Once you are happy with the position of the belt. I would start the engine briefly and check to make sure the belt is tracking properly.
Then be sure to put the coolant lines back together and replace the clip so that they are back the way they were from the start.
Next it is time to put the serpentine belt back in place. Start at the alternator and then over the power steering pump etc. Finally back to the upper tensioner. Relieve the tension as before and slip the new belt into place.
That's it. Start it up and you are done. I have attached a picture of the belt path just in case you don't have one. I hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me or post here. I am happy to help.
If I recall, it was pain in the backside, but doable.
---------------------------------------
I have an A4 which seems to have a different setup than the M6. The only real difference is the cooling lines that cross infront of the a/c tension pully. I used a 15 MM socket to do all of the work. I also did everything from the top of the motor. You will need an offset socket handle to deal with the a/c belt. A regular socket wrench hits the water pump pulley so you need a flexible wrench.
The first step is to remove the large serpentine belt this is pretty straight forward. Simply put the socket wrench on the belt tension pulley located on the passenger side at the top of the motor. Push the wrench towards the drivers side of the motor and the belt will slip off pretty easy. Remove the belt from the motor. I have a 2000 which has a large ABS pump so I had to do some twisting of the belt to get it out from between the power steering pulley and the abs pump.
With that out of the way it is time to tackle the a/c belt. The belt runs from the a/c compressor and the drive shaft pulley and is squeezed tight between two pulley's. The lower pulley is the one that needs to be moved to relieve the tension.
On mine there are two steel cooling lines that cross right in front of the tension pulley bolt. There is a clip holds the two lines together. I popped the clip off one of the lines and was able to spread them apart enough to get the socket onto the bold. I had to put the socket on the bolt first and then insert the handle.
This is where you need to use the offset handle. Put the handle on and push the wrench towards the drivers side. The tension will relieve and you will be able to slip the belt off with relative ease. (the keyword being relative).
Ok that's the easy part. at the point you should have all the belts off.
At this point I took a wire brush and cleaned all the pulleys. This seems to be one of the key reasons why belts squeal. GM also advises against belt dressing. So I didn't use any.
Putting the a/c belt on is where the challenge came.
Slip the a/c belt onto the drive shaft pulley first. I then put the belt OVER the tensioner pulley. I also put the belt OVER the upper guide pulley. this allowed enough tension for me to slip the belt over the ac compressor.
Now after much trial and error I learned that it was smart to close my eyes and use my fingers to follow the path of the belt and make sure that it is on the drive shaft pulley all the way around. There is NO room for error. If it is off by the smallest amount the rest of this project is a nightmare.
Once you are sure that the belt is on its track it's time to reattach the socket and handle. Relieve the tension again and start to work the belt under the upper pulley. To visualize this the belt will be in an hourglass shape as it follows its path. This is where I had my biggest problem. I thought I had pushed the tensioner as far as it would go, but I still couldn't get enough slack to slip the upper part of the belt into place. Finally I pushed just a little further. The belt slipped into place and that was all she wrote. Once you are happy with the position of the belt. I would start the engine briefly and check to make sure the belt is tracking properly.
Then be sure to put the coolant lines back together and replace the clip so that they are back the way they were from the start.
Next it is time to put the serpentine belt back in place. Start at the alternator and then over the power steering pump etc. Finally back to the upper tensioner. Relieve the tension as before and slip the new belt into place.
That's it. Start it up and you are done. I have attached a picture of the belt path just in case you don't have one. I hope this helps. If you have any questions please feel free to PM me or post here. I am happy to help.
Last edited by MAC5; 03-25-2014 at 08:16 AM.
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Rocky48 (09-07-2021)
#15
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '05-'10
DSTURBD , Come over I'll help you do it! it might be a bit of a drive though. It's not that bad from underneath, I just changed both belts and all four pulleys.
#16
Melting Slicks
I bought my belts at Advanced Auto and took them to a Penzoil quick lube place that was across the street. They charged me $15 to install both belts.
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The Former (09-07-2021)
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I did go ahead and change the main belt this evening (just got through with it), but I may have to set something up with you at a later date for the other one if that is okay.
I definitely want to get it taken care of before needing the A/C regularly!!
It would sure be fun to hang out with another forum member and work on the cars!!
Thanks again,
DSTURBD
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#19
Melting Slicks
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St. Jude Donor '13
If you still have the plastic A/C pullies you should consider changing them. They sell a metal upgraded pulley. The plastic get badly worn. As another member mentioned, the only trick I remember its easier to put the belt around the pulley and then start the bolt. It was the only way to get the belt to go on. I'd also bet its impossible to do only from the top.