When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I was in the same position as you about 6-8 months ago. My rear passenger side line rusted and had a hair line crack on the bend. I went to a dozen shops and all wanted a ton of money to do the lines and some shops said no because of the tight spaces. NO ONE MAKES STOCK fitment replacements.
After talking to shops and doing some research I went to napa auto store and bought two lines that were bubble flares and two adapters for then I cut them down to fit correctly. To be honest, it wasn't a bad job. I'm not a mechanic either.
Take off the lines and take them to napa for the same gauge lines and couplings. The workers should be able to help you out.
The toughest part is bending them yourself to match the existing. Note: make sure you done over bend or have the lines resting on any metal or axles where it can rub and wear away the new lines.
Let me know if you have questions.
Tom, I scanned this picture from the parts catalog. I have the lines I need circled. The arrows are pointing to where the rusted out areas are. I dunno if NAPA has tubing that long ?
As for bending the tubes ? I got access to several different size tube benders at work so that's not an issue !
Here's another thing I was pondering...bare with me on this.
I wonder how close a fit C6 tubing would be? I heard it said that the chassis and running gear on a C6 is almost identical to a C5....emphasize the word ALMOST
NEVER MIND...Just looked. Totally different !
Take notice...C6 lines look to be sleeved or coated.
And millions of cars with brake lines of the same material are constantly driven wet.
I'm wondering if the problem is more one of humid storage conditions on rarely-driven cars, especially in road-salt states.
Another reason to put a vapor barrier down under the car before putting it away. The car with the rusted lines was probably driven in winter sometime in it's past.
Tom, I scanned this picture from the parts catalog. I have the lines I need circled. The arrows are pointing to where the rusted out areas are. I dunno if NAPA has tubing that long ?
As for bending the tubes ? I got access to several different size tube benders at work so that's not an issue !
I may be mistaken, are your lines rusted from the front to back or from the two separate rear lines from ebm to each caliper? My repair was ebm to the calipers.
This is a problem on GM trucks as well. They use cheap steel lines. There are companys that make SS replacement kits for the trucks. They cost less than the junk from GM. Maybe they make them for C5s. There may be a recall on the trucks as there have been many wrecks because of them. Most Vettes don't go out in the rain so not as big a problem.
Was under the C5 recently - no issues, thank goodness, but I have had two failures due to rust on my Chev K1500. Both times somewhere in the rear line let go - rusted clear through. Still had the front brakes so it would stop - although it was unnerving!
The last time I had all the lines replaced by my local guy. He has a roll of brake line material in his shop and all the fittings.
Also had the fuel lines rust out on that truck, found that when I had to have a new fuel pump and the line just disintegrated as the fittings were undone.
Was under the C5 recently - no issues, thank goodness, but I have had two failures due to rust on my Chev K1500. Both times somewhere in the rear line let go - rusted clear through. Still had the front brakes so it would stop - although it was unnerving!
The last time I had all the lines replaced by my local guy. He has a roll of brake line material in his shop and all the fittings.
Also had the fuel lines rust out on that truck, found that when I had to have a new fuel pump and the line just disintegrated as the fittings were undone.
Hopefully, someday stainless lines will be mandatory on all new cars.
Was under the C5 recently - no issues, thank goodness, but I have had two failures due to rust on my Chev K1500. Both times somewhere in the rear line let go - rusted clear through. Still had the front brakes so it would stop - although it was unnerving!
The last time I had all the lines replaced by my local guy. He has a roll of brake line material in his shop and all the fittings.
Also had the fuel lines rust out on that truck, found that when I had to have a new fuel pump and the line just disintegrated as the fittings were undone.
Lose enough brake fluid through those rusted lines and you wouldn't have had front brakes either. Then your e-brake would be the only thing that would stop you.
Last edited by thisMSGgood4me; 12-18-2014 at 10:05 PM.
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
Originally Posted by mrlmd
Cutting and splicing brake lines together is illegal in some states and many mechanics and brake shops won't do it, for safety reasons. Better to replace the entire line.
But best of luck finding someone to fabricate the lines for you.
And millions of cars with brake lines of the same material are constantly driven wet.
I'm wondering if the problem is more one of humid storage conditions on rarely-driven cars, especially in road-salt states.
That would not explain why its such a problem on trucks.
My C5 is on the hoist now so I looked at it and there is no rust. I have the tools to make the lines if I need them. Another problem is brake fluid attracts moisture. So if you don't flush the system including the ABS they will rust from the inside out. Rust is what makes the fluid brown. I have Autoenginuity that will do the ABS flush procedure. I flush all our vehicles once a year. I have never had an ABS or caliper failure on any of them.
I may be mistaken, are your lines rusted from the front to back or from the two separate rear lines from ebm to each caliper? My repair was ebm to the calipers.
Sorry for the confusion.
Both of them Tom...Or should I say all 4 of them. Both left and right lines from EBM to the Unions above the Differential and then from the Unions back to left and right caliper.
So yes, from from the EBM to the Calipers.
I shot off an email to Marc at VetteNuts and he told me he's got a nice, fairly rust free set. Looks like that's the route I'm going to take.
My heart fell into my stomach earlier this evening. I got called in for OT on Wed.Night, knew nothing was going on at work, so I purchased new bulbs for the front directional and marker lights. Right side bulb was burnt out. Put the car up on the lift, pulled the access panels and replaced the bulbs. Co-Worker comes out to the garage to see what i'm up to, turns on his flashlight and starts looking at the underside of the car. Next thing I hear is "Louie, come here" Directing the flashlight beam up over the differential he says, 'Look at those rusted lines" What Lines Jerry ?
"Brake line you moron" So i look at what he's talking about. Where the 2 lines, coming from the ABS unit to the rear, that are threaded together above the Differential are all rusted away. I mean, the right side line is less then 1/2 the diameter of the left one. Panic set in . At first I thought, ok, I can replace the lines from the connections , back. Then I look closer, the other side is just as rusted away. SO now I'm looking at replacing all of the lines, from the ABS unit right back to the calipers on both sides.
If it was just the 2 lines from the fittings back, it would be pretty easy.
But damn......those lines are really tucked up there along side the torque tube. Not to mention what a nightmare it will be to disconnect them from the ABS unit and remove them all the way back !
Has anyone ever had to do this before? I haven't even begun to look online and see if I can get new lines.
One thing I did think about was, being the accessibility is easy I can cut the lines back past the rust, get new fitting and re-flare the ends so I don't have to mess with trying to remove the lines all the way back to the ABS unit .
Good Idea or no ?
Added note : I AM NOT GOING TO SPLICE ANYTHING...It was just a thought !
Thanks for the heads-up big guy.... Just bought my '99 and not sure if previous owner drove a lot in rain (not that THAT 'necessarily' matters). and #2: I'm not a mechanic. I'll check it out next time she's up on a lift, which is coming up soon.
Thanks for the heads-up big guy.... Just bought my '99 and not sure if previous owner drove a lot in rain (not that THAT 'necessarily' matters). and #2: I'm not a mechanic. I'll check it out next time she's up on a lift, which is coming up soon.
Guess I should check mine soon too. My car origianally came from Wyoming and then it went to Omaha. Then I bought it and brought it to Arizona. Been here for the last 7+ years now and haven't had any braking issues, knock on wood......Thanks for the heads up.
No brake line problems with my Vette, but I've had rusted brake lines on two Chevy trucks. As a matter of fact, I will be repairing rusted lines on my current S-10 in the near future. Right now I can enhance braking by dropping the plow blade. I'm only using it to plow my driveway so it isn't getting much use anymore which is probably contributing to its rusting. The Vette sits in a dry garage with painted floors which probably helps its not rusting.
Both of them Tom...Or should I say all 4 of them. Both left and right lines from EBM to the Unions above the Differential and then from the Unions back to left and right caliper.
So yes, from from the EBM to the Calipers.
I shot off an email to Marc at VetteNuts and he told me he's got a nice, fairly rust free set. Looks like that's the route I'm going to take.
FAIRLY rust free? I wouldn't buy used brake lines unless they were COMPLETELY rust free. But that's just me.
12-18-2014, 02:36 PM
Then your e-brake would be the only thing that would stop you.
But best of luck finding someone to fabricate the lines for you.
