duramaxsky

Or buy them as a pattern for a new set os SS lines.

RedC5

Anyone have photos of what they consider really bad rusted C5 brake lines?

thisMSGgood4me

Why buy a rusted set? Why not just use your own brake lines for the pattern?

SG Lou

I AM NOT BUYING A RUSTED SET...for the love of God...read the posts before jumping to conclusions !

Marc from Vettenuts said they were rust free....I mistakenly wrote "Fairly Rust Free"

As for using my own as a pattern ? The chances of getting them out intact will be tough ...

duramaxsky

Sounds like his a so bad they wont survive removal. The patterns need to be good so we can all order from who ever he sends them to. Maybe Vette Nuts could start making them.

SG Lou

Been doing some more research and guess what, according to 2 different State Inspectors that I talked to, both say this " flare unions will pass, compression fittings will not When I explained to them what i was thinking of and both of them said it was perfectly safe.
When I replaced the lines on my 03 Silverado, the longest line was actually 2 pieces instead of one long run. Isn't that the same thing ?
If I was to cut back a few inches from the rusted area, re-bubble flare the ends and add a new section to it it shouldn't be a problem.

Reason I'm thinking this is , I'd have to remove the exhaust system, tunnel plate , which I will have to do anyway to cut and splice.If I was to replace the entire run of hard lines I may also have to remove the left header. If I run in to a problem such as a broken exhaust manifold stud or what ever I'd be screwed because I'd be doing all of this work at my place of employment using the lift in the garage, etc, etc. I'd have no means to run out to get parts etc, etc.

Dunno what the hell to do....big job if replacing it all with only less then a 12hr time frame to do it in, without Murphy's Law sticking his nose in !

thisMSGgood4me

I was responding to a comment from duramaxsky, not you, so I wasn't jumping to any conclusions.

jackthelad

Separate reservoirs within the master cylinder - the rear brake reservoir was totally dry, front one just fine.

SG Lou

Then, I stand corrected and apologize

SG Lou

Just got done reading my Factory Service Manual for my 04.
Book 1, Brake Section 5, page 5-43. Replacing section of brake hard line acceptable as long as the proper size line and fittings are used.

For the hell of it I stopped into AutoZone by me to check on parts...Counter guy told me the same thing as I read and was told by the inspectors....compression fittings are a no-no and illegal, flare fittings are perfectly acceptable.

If it's good enough for the FSM to state it can be done then it's good enough for me !

thisMSGgood4me

Good to know...thanks.

thisMSGgood4me

After you've done the repair, let us know how it went.

Marc@Vettenuts.net

We have them rust free in stock for anyone needing them. Not fairly rust free lol. We throw those away.

SG Lou

I misquoted you Marc....My Bad

Black 00 Coup

never never splice lines

norcalace

What do you think T fittings are that split the rear brake line at the differential into the two lines leading to each wheel? What do you think metering blocks are? What about proportioning valves? They are all the same as a union between the hard lines. Same flares, same flare nuts and they all pass brake fluid through them. They are just splices with a function other than straight through flow. The connection at a union is identical to one at the master cylinder. If a connection at a union can leak or fail so can the one at the master cylinder, proportioning valve, wheel cylinder, etc. Lastly would you consider the transition from hard line to rubber/flex line a splice?

SG Lou

So I guess the Factory Service Manual is totally wrong.
If that's the case then we shouldn't refer to ANYTHING in the FSM because it's all wrong.

SG Lou

So I got an update for you guys on my car. This past weekend I had to work. Being it was a "Holiday Weekend" I knew no one was going be anywhere near the place, management wise, except us peons. Purchased the stuff I needed from AutoZone and on Saturday morning I had the car on the lift and all 4 wheels and the mufflers removed by 7am. Ready to jump in and start cutting the lines I grab one of them and a crap load of clumped of dirt and grime come off onto my hands.....90% of what I originally thought was rust was actually crap build up on the lines ! So I took a piece of ScotchBrite pad and began to clean up all of the lines. Very Minimal amount of rust was on it. So much so that pitting of the lines was just about non-existent. Man was I relieved. After I blew off everything with compressed air I wiped a generous amount of WD-40 onto them. There is some rust but nothing near what I originally thought. I think I'm safe to drive to the car the way it is until I can get the replacement lines and change them out in the spring or summer. Thanks for all of your help and input !

HAPPY NEW YEAR !
Lou

JR-01

If it was just surface rust, those lines should last the life of the car.

CaliforniaJack

I grew up in New Jersey and always hated it when it snowed and the salt trucks sprayed their evil corrosive on the roads. I always waited for at least three spring rains before I took my Vette out of the garage. My wife's Honda rusted out from the bottom up! If you replace your brake lines with steel (if SS is not available), coat them with a spray of Zinc Chromate then hose off the underside of your Vette any time it is exposed to road salt. Or move to a better climate!