jjc508520

I changed mine using the "turkey baster method" (remove what you can, refill, pump the pedal 40 times, repeat). After 4 cycles it was much better. While I was at it pulled what I could from the brake reservoir and refilled it as well.

So how does "dust" get into the clutch fluid to begin with?

I read in my FSM about accessing the bleed fitting from below but it sounds like a pain to access (remove floor pan and part of exhaust?) - and I guess this is why people can make a living selling remote bleeder kits.

Took it for a spin after and the clutch feels better - catches higher and seems to stay there.

When I depress the clutch there is a squeak that sounds like its coming from the engine side of the firewall but didn't bother to chase it down.

bjones7131

I have done the baster method a couple of times with no issues. Hope U find the squeak.

QCVette

As I understand it, the dust is actually friction material from the clutch. The throwout bearing is inside the bell housing and the clutch dust can collect on it and be dragged back into the fluid area when the clutch is cycled in and out. Over time, the dust that is dragged back into the throwout bearing is what turns the fluid black. I also read that it happens more quickly if there are high rpm shifts since there is more turbulence in the bell housing and can move the dust around more to collect on the throwout bearing.

rrwirsi

Thanks QCVette. Now I understand why my clutch fluid was black when I changed it.

4drturbo

Just another **** poor design by GM. One of MANY flaws these cars have.
http://www.corvettemods.com/Motive-F...or_p_6446.html
This is what I use^^^

john8642

Here's a link that explains the clutch issue.

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/

4drturbo

That is a link to the main site. This is the direct link you need:

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

Mike Beck

I still want to know how the dust gets into the fluid. To me, you need to have a leak for this to occur. Now I know how black my fluid was and have purged it twice with the turkey baster method. It certainly gets dark much faster than brake fluid, but that fluid does it too over time.

john8642

Didn't you bother to read the link in the post above yours?

Mike Beck

Yes I did, and still don't understand how a closed system can get anything into it. These types of fluids attract water, a lot, so why don't we have a problem with that? How is dust getting into it without fluid leaking out?

john8642

The slave cylinder piston extends and retracts past the cylinder seal. When the piston extends, the clutch dust from the bell housing sticks to the piston, and some of that dust then is pulled back into the cylinder reservoir, contaminating the clutch fluid. When enough dust accumulates in the fluid, it will damage the seal, making the problem worse and allowing even more dust to enter the fluid. GM improved the design of both the clutch master and slave cylinders for the 2004 model year, so all new OEM replacements are the improved 2004 version. That's about as simple as I can explain it.

Mike Beck

Gotcha! I guess those particles are fine enough. Obviously the fluid gets contaminated, no doubt about that. So, if I decide to put headers on this car in the springtime, I should also replace the slave cylinder at the same time, probably master also while I have it apart.

jjc508520

Thanks for all the replies and I think I too now understand the issue...