A/C belt help
01-26-2015, 07:47 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
A/C belt help
Having trouble getting belt back on after repacking bearings in the AC idler. I am convinced this belt will not go back on the car... Anyone else have this issue? I read something somewhere where someone bought a belt that was 1 inch longer and it was able to fit.
This AC belt and idler pulley repair has been the biggest PITA I've experienced since owning a c5.
This AC belt and idler pulley repair has been the biggest PITA I've experienced since owning a c5.
Last edited by wardamncorvette; 01-26-2015 at 08:23 PM.
01-26-2015, 08:01 PM
#2
I feel your pain, I just went through this today. I was also convinced that the belt was the wrong size, but I verified it with the belt that was already on it and it was the same length.
Make sure to alight the belt perfectly on the crank, the compressor, and the tensioner. Then push the tensioner down and push the belt down under the top pulley. You have to be careful when trying to push the belt under the pulley because as you try to maneuver it under the pulley, it will get out of alignment on the crank and/or the compressor. You basically have to force it under the pulley wile trying to keep everything in alignment. It is a huge PITA but it will just fall into place after many tries.
Make sure to alight the belt perfectly on the crank, the compressor, and the tensioner. Then push the tensioner down and push the belt down under the top pulley. You have to be careful when trying to push the belt under the pulley because as you try to maneuver it under the pulley, it will get out of alignment on the crank and/or the compressor. You basically have to force it under the pulley wile trying to keep everything in alignment. It is a huge PITA but it will just fall into place after many tries.
01-26-2015, 09:05 PM
#3
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Having trouble getting belt back on after repacking bearings in the AC idler. I am convinced this belt will not go back on the car... Anyone else have this issue? I read something somewhere where someone bought a belt that was 1 inch longer and it was able to fit.
This AC belt and idler pulley repair has been the biggest PITA I've experienced since owning a c5.
This AC belt and idler pulley repair has been the biggest PITA I've experienced since owning a c5.
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
AS far as the belt goes, a proper length belt will go on the pulley set, you just need to pry it on using a small tire iron or drift key. the belt has to be buried deep in the crank pulley and over the tensioner, then you just pry the belt over the idler..
I've done this for a few friends and on my own car and the whole job took less than a half hour..
Last edited by Evil-Twin; 01-26-2015 at 09:11 PM.
01-26-2015, 10:52 PM
#4
Not that its relevant to your problem... you cant repack the pulley bearings.. first of all it requires a very " Special " high heat and High RPM rating, this grease is extremely expensive 40 dollars a pint can. its not wheel bearing grease.. that you can by for 4 dollars a can.
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
...waste of time. Just install new ones if the old ones are causing problems. Fix it right the first time. 
01-27-2015, 02:49 PM
#5
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Not that its relevant to your problem... you cant repack the pulley bearings.. first of all it requires a very " Special " high heat and High RPM rating, this grease is extremely expensive 40 dollars a pint can. its not wheel bearing grease.. that you can by for 4 dollars a can.
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
AS far as the belt goes, a proper length belt will go on the pulley set, you just need to pry it on using a small tire iron or drift key. the belt has to be buried deep in the crank pulley and over the tensioner, then you just pry the belt over the idler..
I've done this for a few friends and on my own car and the whole job took less than a half hour..
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
AS far as the belt goes, a proper length belt will go on the pulley set, you just need to pry it on using a small tire iron or drift key. the belt has to be buried deep in the crank pulley and over the tensioner, then you just pry the belt over the idler..
I've done this for a few friends and on my own car and the whole job took less than a half hour..
The reason why I did this was because my main idler pulley started squeaking bad. I then went to autozone and they didn't have the right pulley (the belt tensioner one doesn't fit with the dust shield and everything). Same with oRiley's, Napa, and advance. So I got to thinking and repacked the bearings with the 5$ lithium grease in a can. It's been like this for 2 weeks and it's been fine. So I did the same with the AC pulley as well because it too was squeaking. There is zero squeaking coming from my car right now. I also installed a gatorback belt.
01-27-2015, 03:04 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
The pullies will work if you don't install the dust shield.I was told that it wasn't required as the pulley has a sealed bearing.No issues with mine after about 6k miles.
01-27-2015, 06:04 PM
#7
The reason why I did this was because my main idler pulley started squeaking bad. I then went to autozone and they didn't have the right pulley (the belt tensioner one doesn't fit with the dust shield and everything). Same with oRiley's, Napa, and advance. So I got to thinking and repacked the bearings with the 5$ lithium grease in a can. It's been like this for 2 weeks and it's been fine. So I did the same with the AC pulley as well because it too was squeaking. There is zero squeaking coming from my car right now. I also installed a gatorback belt.
01-27-2015, 06:45 PM
#8
FYI you can buy GM replacements for under $30 on Amazon. I don't know why people fool around with the aftermarket stuff that won't take the dust covers when you can buy OEMs for a few dollars more.
01-27-2015, 08:19 PM
#9
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Sometimes spending a little bit more can save a whole lot of aggravation.OP - hope what you did works well for you, but if not, just get the OEM part.
04-25-2018, 03:24 PM
#10
Advanced
I know this thread is three years old but it remains open so here's my version of replacing the A/C belt on the C5:
A/C belt replacement: From above, route belt so it is on TOP of tensioner's lower wheel. Get under car, if car is auto, remove clip (10mm bolt) that supports transmission fluid lines (located on oil sump pan). With these lines loosened, put a 15mm open wrench on tensioner's wheel bolt, push clockwise so the tensioner wheel is at max (spring loaded) down position. With a small jack (scissor/hydraulic), place under the wrench's free end and crank up so the wrench is held in position. Go to top of engine compartment and lube the belt where it just touches the idler wheel (a dab of coolant/grease works OK). Place an open end wrench (1/2”-3/4”) over the belt pushing it down while wiggling it under the idler wheel. Belt should easily slip under the wheel but it might take a few attempts. Go back under the car, check to ensure the belt is fully engaged into the A/C compressor and harmonic balancer groves, remove the jack and wrench. Replace the transmission fluid line clip. With all tools handy, this job should take 30-45 minutes.
In my case ('98 with 127K miles), the entire tensioner assembly needed replacement as the bushing that holds the bracket to the engine deteriorated. The wheel became out of alignment causing the belt to slip off and shred.
While under the car replacing the bracket, I was pelted with small drops of coolant. Wonderful....leaking water pump. I completed the A/C belt replacement then removed the water pump, top and bottom radiator hoses. I replaced the water pump, gaskets, upper and lower hoses. Total time for the pump project was 5 hours. Could have been much less if I did not replace hoses and flush the coolant.
In April 2018 dollars, the total project cost me $317 with parts (belt, hoses, tensioner bracket, water pump, coolant) acquired locally at O'Reilly and NAPA stores.
A/C belt replacement: From above, route belt so it is on TOP of tensioner's lower wheel. Get under car, if car is auto, remove clip (10mm bolt) that supports transmission fluid lines (located on oil sump pan). With these lines loosened, put a 15mm open wrench on tensioner's wheel bolt, push clockwise so the tensioner wheel is at max (spring loaded) down position. With a small jack (scissor/hydraulic), place under the wrench's free end and crank up so the wrench is held in position. Go to top of engine compartment and lube the belt where it just touches the idler wheel (a dab of coolant/grease works OK). Place an open end wrench (1/2”-3/4”) over the belt pushing it down while wiggling it under the idler wheel. Belt should easily slip under the wheel but it might take a few attempts. Go back under the car, check to ensure the belt is fully engaged into the A/C compressor and harmonic balancer groves, remove the jack and wrench. Replace the transmission fluid line clip. With all tools handy, this job should take 30-45 minutes.
In my case ('98 with 127K miles), the entire tensioner assembly needed replacement as the bushing that holds the bracket to the engine deteriorated. The wheel became out of alignment causing the belt to slip off and shred.
While under the car replacing the bracket, I was pelted with small drops of coolant. Wonderful....leaking water pump. I completed the A/C belt replacement then removed the water pump, top and bottom radiator hoses. I replaced the water pump, gaskets, upper and lower hoses. Total time for the pump project was 5 hours. Could have been much less if I did not replace hoses and flush the coolant.
In April 2018 dollars, the total project cost me $317 with parts (belt, hoses, tensioner bracket, water pump, coolant) acquired locally at O'Reilly and NAPA stores.
Last edited by Vulcan73; 04-25-2018 at 03:33 PM.
04-26-2018, 03:31 PM
#12
Pro
Not that its relevant to your problem... you cant repack the pulley bearings.. first of all it requires a very " Special " high heat and High RPM rating, this grease is extremely expensive 40 dollars a pint can. its not wheel bearing grease.. that you can by for 4 dollars a can.
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
AS far as the belt goes, a proper length belt will go on the pulley set, you just need to pry it on using a small tire iron or drift key. the belt has to be buried deep in the crank pulley and over the tensioner, then you just pry the belt over the idler..
I've done this for a few friends and on my own car and the whole job took less than a half hour..
Cy Joint and wheel bearing grease sees 800 rpm and heat in the 120F range.. pulleys run at 5000 plus rpm and heat in excess of 160 /180 F. Both bearing for the idler and tensioner are the same. Cost of the correct NEW bearings is under 40 dollars for both.
you are wasting your time and money using the wrong grease... also without putting a new seal in a old bearing.. ( replacement seals are not available... ) the slightest deformation will cause the grease to leak out,, high speed pulley grease sees 160/180 F temps, when wheel bearing grease sees 120 F.. put that in a high speed engine pulley bearing and it will turn to water and with a deformed seal it will run out over time..
AS far as the belt goes, a proper length belt will go on the pulley set, you just need to pry it on using a small tire iron or drift key. the belt has to be buried deep in the crank pulley and over the tensioner, then you just pry the belt over the idler..
I've done this for a few friends and on my own car and the whole job took less than a half hour..
04-27-2018, 02:05 AM
#13
Melting Slicks
I replaced my a/c and main drive idlers and tensioners, got all 4 at Pep Boys with 25% off ordering online and picking up in the store.
I think they were Dayco no slack.
I think I got all 4 for a tad over 100 bucks.
I think they were Dayco no slack.
I think I got all 4 for a tad over 100 bucks.
05-03-2018, 08:05 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
I did have a problem with the main idler pulley, it started making a squeaking noise while on my road trip to California and left me stranded on my way home on I10 eastbound in the middle of nowhere.
That pulley and bolt and dust shields flew off, one of the dust shields was still on mounting boss.
Got a expensive tow into Blythe California autozone and had to MacGyver a Tahoe pulley, and a bolt and big washer from the "help!" section of bolts etc.
Once home I ordered AC Delco idler pully kit off Amazon 65-70 bucks, had pulley both shields and bolt.
Pep Boys kept emailing me wanting me to give a review of the very part that flew off car, as if the manufacturer knew there is a issue, I never told Pep Boys of the failure/breakdown either, so of out of 4 parts bought they asked more than once to review the one I had trouble with as if they were psychic, hmm... lol
That was September and all other pullies and AC Delco main idler kit is doing fine roughly 6000 miles later.
That pulley and bolt and dust shields flew off, one of the dust shields was still on mounting boss.
Got a expensive tow into Blythe California autozone and had to MacGyver a Tahoe pulley, and a bolt and big washer from the "help!" section of bolts etc.
Once home I ordered AC Delco idler pully kit off Amazon 65-70 bucks, had pulley both shields and bolt.
Pep Boys kept emailing me wanting me to give a review of the very part that flew off car, as if the manufacturer knew there is a issue, I never told Pep Boys of the failure/breakdown either, so of out of 4 parts bought they asked more than once to review the one I had trouble with as if they were psychic, hmm... lol
That was September and all other pullies and AC Delco main idler kit is doing fine roughly 6000 miles later.
05-04-2018, 10:25 AM
#16
Burning Brakes
I did mine a few months ago. Took about 45 minuets. I went at it from the bottom with long extensions and swivels. Not a hard job if you don't mind rolling around the garage. Put an AC tensioner and a gatorback in. The idler was still good, so I didn't touch it. In a previous post someone said they are sealed bearings. That is not true. If you remove one side of the seal, you will clearly see the rollers. I have lubed idler pulley bearings with great success in the past. I did not do it on the Vette as I don't want to patch things. Just me .02c
