73Corvette

[QUOTE=J.Ho;1589065689]Funny it is way more fun in Arkansas, Colorado, or some other winding mountainy highways... but for opening one up, home is ok if you don't hit a deer, pheasant, armadillo, jack rabbit, pot hole, or some other unexpected hazard at 150mph... won't happen again.

J.Ho

Ok great and thanks again to all of you.

I cleared the codes and the light went out. It came back on after three starts. I'm just getting the hang of scrolling through the codes so I accident erased one of the first folders. I've rewatched the video so this next time I'll be sure to properly grab them.

Got to say I got my hopes up that my mechanic simply didn't erase the codes after working on the car lol.

J.Ho

[QUOTE=73Corvette;1589065733]No doubt! I'm a private pilot so a runway was the first thing that popped in my mind.

mclaugj

This Gas leak problem you refer to was it a recall. Has anyone else on the Forum heard of this problem.

SG Lou

It was a recall of sorts...There was a special warranty coverage adjustment which does not recall the cars but only extends the warranty on the item in question, in this case to 10-yrs or 100,000 miles. The coverage is very limited in scope and covers only the quick connectors used to link the two tanks, ie: the problem is not the tanks themselves, but the connectors. Also it only involved 04's that fell into the Serial Number range between VIN 45110258 to 45125500 .

If your VIN # isn't effected then I wouldn't worry about it. But the alloted time frame has also expired so there is really nothing you can do about it even if your car's VIN is in that list.

73Corvette

Nailed it... gas leak was just simpler. Thank you Lou

73Corvette

Thought you might enjoy this

● The little yellow “helper light” on the bottom of the rear-view mirror that illuminates the shifter area.
● That you can put your key in the driver’s door and turn it twice towards the front to unlock the passenger door and a third time to pop the trunk.
● That you can pop the trunk and also pop the gas cap cover by pulling on metal lines hidden in the back.
● The little slotted cover on the dash behind the steering wheel is where the inside air temperature sensor is located.
● All of the option codes are in the glove box.
● Tire inflation recommended pressures are on the driver’s door.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the DIC buttons is a light sensor.
● The thing that looks like a little LED near the defroster vent is a UV sensor for determining A/C usage to compensate for the heating effect of the sun.
● The build sheet is in the front re-bar.
● If you leave your turn signal on, in about 1 minute it will start to ding (loud enough to hear over the stereo) to let you know you have old timers disease.
● You can reset the oil life by pumping the gas pedal 3 times (but not with the engine running).
● Hold down the reset button while on one of the trip odometers and it changes that reading to the miles you’ve traveled since last starting the engine.
● Hold down the Active Handling button for 5 sec. to engage “Competitive Driving” on cars equipped with active handling (2000 and previous years must be stopped.)
● If you pull the seatbelts all the way out while you’re buckled in, they ratchet back in to hold you tighter into the seat. (then move the seat forward to make it extra snug -- Leafty)
● Simply remove fuse #2 under the hood and your DRLs will be out permanently. Only thing affected is that when you unlock at night using the key fob your front turn signal lights and back up lights will not flash. Your front turn signals will operate normally, however.
● The side-view mirrors can twist both forward and backward, decreasing the chance of damage if struck.
● There is a release opening with a flap to let air out of the car when the hatch is closed. It is located just above the driver side rear compartment behind the carpet and on the side of the car. Not that it really works well.
● Also you can ground your amp to a screw/bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame.
● If you have a 6-speed car you can pop the trunk when the car is running by lifting the e-brake.
● There is a spot on the driver side just out of the middle compartment under the carpet for the lug nut key. You should have a compartment on the drivers & passenger’s side (in the trunk) and a center compartment. On the left (drivers) side of the center compartment, on the left side where the center cover fits, there is an ‘indent’ that holds the wheel lock key.
● If you turn on the headlights, then go to parking light position, the lamps remain up but the headlights are not left on.
● If you have the passive entry feature: If you lock the keys in the car, wait a few minutes and then shake the car. That will unlock the car.
● HUD has a shift light for the manuals.
● You can easily shift the M6 trans up or down without the clutch if you match revs. (Not great for longevity, however.)
● You can eject the cd from the in-dash player without turning on any power. Don’t even need key in the ignition.

73Corvette

Nice to have a copy of this in the glove box...

How to Pull Codes:
1. Turn your key to the "ON" position, but do not start the engine.
2. Clear any present messages by pressing the RESET button.
3. Hold the OPTIONS button down, and press the FUEL button 4 times. (This will get you into the "codes" section of the DIC.
4. The computer will automatically display all the codes your car has created. It will cycle through each code every 3 seconds. (Have a pen and paper handy to write down the codes)

Note: Any code that ends in an "H" is a history code (something that has occurred in the past, but is not reporting as an error currently.)

5. Once the computer has finished going through all of its codes, press RESET to enter Manual Configuration mode. It should start with a module and show "NO CODES" or "# Codes."
6. To optionally reset codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until is displays "NO CODES."
7. Press OPTIONS to go into the next module (ie, from PCM, or Powertrain Control Module, to TCS, or Traction Control System.)
8. Repeat Step 6 until you have reset all the codes in all the computer modules.

Note: Only reset the codes if you want to- it is not necessary to reset them every time you pull the codes.

9. When finished, simply take your key out of the ignition.

Crosis

Not in the Corvette world. There are many examples of C5s with mileage like that. Many Corvettes are garage queens that only see the light of day once a week if they are lucky.

rjwz28

Many of us got our cars used with very low miles... these cars are commonly driven very little. My 03 had 17k miles when I bought it a year and a half ago, and I test-drove an 04 with 12k-14k miles before I bought my 03. Mine is only at 21k now, and a thousand of those were just driving it home.

mclaugj

Thanks for your reply SGLou. Here's what's going on I'm looking at a 2004 and the VIN # is in the range. The C5 has 22000 miles on it. I'm buying it from a distance. I have not seen the car yet but will be taking a trip shortly. If the gas leak problem has not been repaired should I take a chance and buy the car or just keep looking.

SG Lou

You can find out if the repairs were made.. First of all, I can safely assume that you already have the VIN being you looked it up to see if this 04 falls into the repair category. Take the VIN to ANY Chevy Dealer and they can look it up to see if it was done under the Extended Warranty. As for taking the chance? That my friend is up to you.
If the repairs were not done you have one of two option: First, While your at the dealer you can ask them, if the repair wasn't done how much would it cost? Then, armed with that info, you can negotiate with the seller. Explain to him whats involved with the repair and how much it will cost and try to get the Repairs total amount deducted from the the actual selling price. The other option is pay for the repairs yourself. IMO, I'd go with the first option

SG Lou

To be perfectly honest 73C, I didn't see that you already posted the "gas leak" and the serial numbers info before I shot my mouth off ! .....my bad

J.Ho

Thanks so much 73, great information.

Ok, cleared it multiple times and this is the only code I'm seeing: 10PCM - P0449 HC

Did a Google search on the code and a thread in this fine forum showed up... I think I got the check engine light the first time immediately after I refueled. Now I've refueled and cleared the code multiple times since first seeing the light so it might be a fuel cap O ring issue. The car would also go dead on the first crank after refueling. Hoping it's something this simple!

Mechanic just replaced rear solenoid so I know it isn't that.

mclaugj

Thanks again SGLou for the quick reply and the good information. I have some thinking to do and I will definitely check the VIN # out with a local Chevy dealer.

73Corvette

No prob...your information is outstanding ... tag teamed it

SG Lou

Damn good choice !

SG Lou

J.Ho

Why are there two part numbers for this CE nose emblem?

http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...tion-2004.html

I'm seeing prices online from the one-off part sites that are some $50-$70 cheaper than the specialty Vette sites.

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/...803&modelYear=

o2bnkc

Ecklers will always have the highest prices, but sometimes they are the only ones that will have a certain part. I won't buy from them unless nobody else has it.