JLZ06TR

I bled the clutch on my 02 Z06. Replaced the fluid with Motul RBF600, but it seems to still boil the fluid as the pedal goes to the floor after getting on it hard. I probably opened the bleeder 6 times in total but now I'm thinking i should have done it more often. How much fluid does it take to make sure all the old fluid is gone? is there any other way to make this easier? its a PITA since i still have stock bleeder.

gunluvS14

are you speaking about Brakes fluid or clutch?
Usually a liter full of brake fluid should be enough to flush everything out.

Sox-Fan

Do you have headers or something that is close enough to the clutch line to boil the fluid? Can you wrap it with something to insulate it? It must be awfully hot if you're boiling that Motul if it is.

Socko

Are you sure it is boiling and not just being standard bad clutch hydraulics which isn't that uncommon due to slave placement?

If i recall correctly, haven't bled mine yet this year, its 2 or 3 full pump strokes to empty the reservoir? I would think 6 passes of that would definately flush everything. The clutch system on these cars are known for being hard to get bled. If you search, there are a number of posts similar to yours, and after numerous attempts people generally tend to start replacing parts and it ends up working.

john8642

There was a thread a while ago about using a mightyvac to pull a vacuum on the master cylinder reservoir to get all the air out. I believe the poster modified a rubber sink stopper to fit the master cylinder.

JLZ06TR

I ended up removing the clutch pedal spring and that seems to have solved the issue but my question now is what does it mean that removing the spring ended up fixing it? I think its indicative of a bad pressure plate.

bumble-z

What makes you think that your fluid is boiling?

Insulate your clutch hydraulic lines with insulated sleeve, heat wrap w/stainless zip ties or heat tape.

Personally before doing the above. I would first try a larger bore clutch master cylinder to see if it (aleaviates??) the problem of sticky clutch pedal.

It worked for me & many others.

neutron82

try a tick master cylinder and if that doesn't work replace the clutch with something better, been down the same road myself

Sigforty

I used about 6 oz. of fluid to flush my clutch. A remote bleeder would be a good thing to install. Have you ever changed the fluid before? The C5's are notorious for requiring frequent fluid changes in the clutch. The design of the slave allows clutch dust to contaminate the fluid turning it black. Every few months I typically cycle my fluid with new, and I have never had an issue with my stock hydraulics.

As for fluid I use Castrol LMA #12502. It is a low moisture absorption Dot 4 fluid.

Supercharged111

Another great example of people drinking Ranger's Koolaid. Hint: your fluid isn't boiling.

neutron82

man, I'm glad someone actually agrees with me on that lol

JLZ06TR

I ended up removing the clutch assist spring and it seems to have solved it for now. Thing is I believe that this is just treating a symptom and not the source of the problem.

I believe its the pressure plate starting to give out at high temps. the spring teeth on the pressure plate is what is supposed to give opposite pressure to the hydraulics to keep the pedal up. The assist spring is pushing down on the pedal towards the floor. When the pressure plate gets hot enough the teeth get soft and are no longer strong enough to push the pedal back up since they have to work against the pedal assist spring.

Atleast thats my theory based on the fact that removing the pedal assist spring has solved it.

jimmyLSX

I had this very exact problem, I did the ranger method. Even used some cool it thermo tec heat wrap thinking it was boiling the fluid, But it wasn't. Some days It would work fine, pedal wouldn't stick then it would. Then all of sudden It was a wall at high rpms through all gears 1st thru 4th. Got a tick master cylinder and it cured the sticky problem and all high rpm issues, but I had some hesitation with 2nd to 3rd gear. Installed
a new clutch, tick speed bleeder. No dice hesitation still persisted. Called some guys over at tick and concluded the stock MC is a real POS with age. Problem is when the Original is never bled regularly the fluid becomes very acidic and eats at the seals, it also doesn't move near enough fluid for a clean shift.
I also thought it wasn't the master cylinder now I'm currently in the process of rebuilding my transmission.

Best advice upgrade to a tick MC or a brand new OEM MC. Before you cause some damage to the transmission.

bluewire

The Tick Master cylinder solved the problem for me. Only downside it Higher pedal pressure.

neutron82

tick offers a stock bore master, I wish I would have known that when I bought mine... it was fine with the stock clutch but after adding a twin disc it's pretty damn firm now... I can still drive it just fine but it would be a little better with the slightly lighter pedal... doesn't bug me enough to swap it out just yet though

JLZ06TR

Unfortunately its already too late for the trans. Ill have to rebuild it soon. But definitely going with tick MC when the time comes.