Replacing rear bushings and rear upper balljoint???
#1
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
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Replacing rear bushings and rear upper balljoint???
Hi guys,
I put on new tires and during the inspection the mechanic told me that my rear upper bushings on the control arms were worn, and also my rear upper ball joints. He priced everything out with dealer items and with labor will cost $1800
I may attempt the fix myself but have a few questions...
- Should I change the upper control arms or just change the bushing and go after market polyurethane?
- The dealer has the rear upper ball joint and knuckle/spindle as one piece, although I have found after market companies that offer the ball joint only...is it possible to press out the old one?
I put on new tires and during the inspection the mechanic told me that my rear upper bushings on the control arms were worn, and also my rear upper ball joints. He priced everything out with dealer items and with labor will cost $1800
I may attempt the fix myself but have a few questions...
- Should I change the upper control arms or just change the bushing and go after market polyurethane?
- The dealer has the rear upper ball joint and knuckle/spindle as one piece, although I have found after market companies that offer the ball joint only...is it possible to press out the old one?
#2
Le Mans Master
If it were me, I would just replace the bushings. The polyurethane should not be too hard to make the ride much harder. The handling should be improved.
Never seen a ball joint that could not be pressed out or removed (older Mopars were not pressed in). Not at home to look in my FSM.
Here is a link to review. Hopefully, if properly done you will not damage the aluminum.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=190050
If you need me to send you all the info from the FSM in PDF form I can do it. Just PM me your year and email.
You could end up doing it yourself for little money.
Never seen a ball joint that could not be pressed out or removed (older Mopars were not pressed in). Not at home to look in my FSM.
Here is a link to review. Hopefully, if properly done you will not damage the aluminum.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=190050
If you need me to send you all the info from the FSM in PDF form I can do it. Just PM me your year and email.
You could end up doing it yourself for little money.
#3
Le Mans Master
Thread Starter
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: ALL governments are legalized mobsters, so doesn't matter where I live :(
Posts: 5,213
Received 184 Likes
on
133 Posts
If it were me, I would just replace the bushings. The polyurethane should not be too hard to make the ride much harder. The handling should be improved.
Never seen a ball joint that could not be pressed out or removed (older Mopars were not pressed in). Not at home to look in my FSM.
Here is a link to review. Hopefully, if properly done you will not damage the aluminum.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=190050
If you need me to send you all the info from the FSM in PDF form I can do it. Just PM me your year and email.
You could end up doing it yourself for little money.
Never seen a ball joint that could not be pressed out or removed (older Mopars were not pressed in). Not at home to look in my FSM.
Here is a link to review. Hopefully, if properly done you will not damage the aluminum.
http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/foru...d.php?t=190050
If you need me to send you all the info from the FSM in PDF form I can do it. Just PM me your year and email.
You could end up doing it yourself for little money.
#4
Burning Brakes
I had to replace my lower a while back, it was easier than one that was pressed into steel. My uppers are new (LG drop spindles) so i haven't had to deal with them.
#5
if you go online the knuckles are about 150 each. c6 zr1 parts fit and are beefier but do have slightly different toe arms so will need a slight alignment adjustment.
I was sure i had a rear upper balljoint issue buts its fairly uncommon they fail as they are shielded from the heat of the rotor relative to the tie rod and lower balljoint. I replaced the tierod and it fixed my issue, so it may be worth investigating yourself.
I was sure i had a rear upper balljoint issue buts its fairly uncommon they fail as they are shielded from the heat of the rotor relative to the tie rod and lower balljoint. I replaced the tierod and it fixed my issue, so it may be worth investigating yourself.
#6
Safety Car
I replaced all of my ball joints and bushings. Yes, ball joints can be pressed out and back in but you have to be very careful to make sure they go in perfectly square. What I did was put the ball joints in the freezer overnight to help shrink the metal a wee bit.and the day of the job I heated the ball joint socket with a paint remover gun to help expand the aluminum and when it was hot I pressed in the ball joint. Worked like a charm. Again, I cannot stress how important it is to make sure you press them in square. If you see aluminum shaving emerging as you press the ball joint in then it's not going in properly. No FSM will tell you this, Matter of fact the FSM says to replace the entire knuckle.
Last edited by SG Lou; 05-09-2015 at 03:08 AM.