Going to attack the stereo next, would like pointers
07-07-2015, 09:52 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Going to attack the stereo next, would like pointers
whats up guys!!!
bought my z in feb and it has a TERRIBLE head unit in it and the bose is about worthless..so since im not the only one thats dealt with this, id like some pointers/tips/tricks for completely wiring new speakers and a head unit and bypassing the oem bose.
the last person to do wiring behind the head unit DESTROYED the wiring and hacked the pac unit or whatever that thing is. so the stereo now sounds like complete garbage.
i would like to know what speakers fit best in the doors (i dont mind making brackets for the doors) and what sizes to shop for. i have no interest in trying to utilize the oem wiring or speakers cause of how it was spliced previously, and i know it may be challenging to re wire, but surely others have, and can chime in for a little help here
the only thing i know im doing for sure at this point is a double din bezel and a kenwood head unit small amp in rear w/10 in speaker in the well
thanks fellas.
bought my z in feb and it has a TERRIBLE head unit in it and the bose is about worthless..so since im not the only one thats dealt with this, id like some pointers/tips/tricks for completely wiring new speakers and a head unit and bypassing the oem bose.
the last person to do wiring behind the head unit DESTROYED the wiring and hacked the pac unit or whatever that thing is. so the stereo now sounds like complete garbage.
i would like to know what speakers fit best in the doors (i dont mind making brackets for the doors) and what sizes to shop for. i have no interest in trying to utilize the oem wiring or speakers cause of how it was spliced previously, and i know it may be challenging to re wire, but surely others have, and can chime in for a little help here
the only thing i know im doing for sure at this point is a double din bezel and a kenwood head unit small amp in rear w/10 in speaker in the well
thanks fellas.
07-07-2015, 10:10 PM
#3
Instructor
I am sure everyone on this forum will advise you to contact Dennis at Double D.
I set mine up by myself and it was fairly easy. Running wires in this car is a piece of cake. I used a 5 channel amp so all my signal and speaker wires go to the amp.
For the doors I bought brackets from Double D that housed a 6.5" component speaker set. I ran the wires from the doors to the rear speaker holes (that is where my crossovers sit) and then from the rear speaker holes to wherever you want to mount the amp.
For the headunit you just need a constant power, igniton power, and ground. I forget exactly where I tapped in for those but a test light can easily help with that. The signal wires run to the amp.
I hope this helps you get started.
I set mine up by myself and it was fairly easy. Running wires in this car is a piece of cake. I used a 5 channel amp so all my signal and speaker wires go to the amp.
For the doors I bought brackets from Double D that housed a 6.5" component speaker set. I ran the wires from the doors to the rear speaker holes (that is where my crossovers sit) and then from the rear speaker holes to wherever you want to mount the amp.
For the headunit you just need a constant power, igniton power, and ground. I forget exactly where I tapped in for those but a test light can easily help with that. The signal wires run to the amp.
I hope this helps you get started.
07-07-2015, 10:19 PM
#4
Administrator
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: In a parallel universe. Currently own 2014 Stingray Coupe.
Posts: 342,707
Received 19,233 Likes
on
13,933 Posts
C7 of the Year - Modified Finalist 2021
MO Events Coordinator
St. Jude Co-Organizer
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-
'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
CI 5, 8 & 11 Veteran
get in touch with Dennis and talk over what you want out of your stereo. Dennis should be able to give you recommendations and help you with a killer system.
07-07-2015, 10:47 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I am sure everyone on this forum will advise you to contact Dennis at Double D.
I set mine up by myself and it was fairly easy. Running wires in this car is a piece of cake. I used a 5 channel amp so all my signal and speaker wires go to the amp.
For the doors I bought brackets from Double D that housed a 6.5" component speaker set. I ran the wires from the doors to the rear speaker holes (that is where my crossovers sit) and then from the rear speaker holes to wherever you want to mount the amp.
For the headunit you just need a constant power, igniton power, and ground. I forget exactly where I tapped in for those but a test light can easily help with that. The signal wires run to the amp.
I hope this helps you get started.
I set mine up by myself and it was fairly easy. Running wires in this car is a piece of cake. I used a 5 channel amp so all my signal and speaker wires go to the amp.
For the doors I bought brackets from Double D that housed a 6.5" component speaker set. I ran the wires from the doors to the rear speaker holes (that is where my crossovers sit) and then from the rear speaker holes to wherever you want to mount the amp.
For the headunit you just need a constant power, igniton power, and ground. I forget exactly where I tapped in for those but a test light can easily help with that. The signal wires run to the amp.
I hope this helps you get started.
I do want to attack it on my own.(wiring that is) pre made brackets sound awesome lol. Everything else is just fishing wire then if guess
Roger that !! Thanks
07-07-2015, 10:53 PM
#7
Melting Slicks
I did mine over the Christmas holidays, this link may give you some ideas and it shows what worked for me.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...5-day-1-a.html
I hope it can help
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...5-day-1-a.html
I hope it can help
07-07-2015, 10:58 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I did mine over the Christmas holidays, this link may give you some ideas and it shows what worked for me.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...5-day-1-a.html
I hope it can help
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...5-day-1-a.html
I hope it can help
HOLY COW ya thats exactly what im talking about. i think half way between what you did and NOT pulling the carpet LOL is where ill land. BUT if i can hold off till winter, it would be an awesome project like yours did@!
thanks man
07-08-2015, 01:32 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Aug 2014
Location: Richmond VA
Posts: 1,169
Received 270 Likes
on
198 Posts
St. Jude Donor '18
Sorry that was the case, but for knowing what fits in factory locations, Crutchfield is great. It seems as though you are wanting to go a little deeper into this investment than your original post, based on subsequent replies.
Do you already have a cargo area block off to make it a true "trunk"? Also, if you are investing that much; likely a sound deadening kit is going to make your new tunes all that much better.
Do you already have a cargo area block off to make it a true "trunk"? Also, if you are investing that much; likely a sound deadening kit is going to make your new tunes all that much better.
07-08-2015, 02:11 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
If you want the ultimate killer system in your car, here is the recipe I went with (and have no regrets):
1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.
Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!
2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.
3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.
4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.
Woofers:
Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.
Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.
Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.
1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.
Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!
2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.
3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.
4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.
Woofers:
Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.
Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.
Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.
Last edited by Z06ster; 07-08-2015 at 02:17 AM.
07-08-2015, 06:19 AM
#11
Drifting
If you want the ultimate killer system in your car, here is the recipe I went with (and have no regrets):
1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.
Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!
2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.
3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.
4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.
Woofers:
Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.
Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.
Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.
1) Sound deaden the car. This will involve removing all interior panels and carpeting. Apply a vibrational dampener followed by with layer of sound absorbing padding.
Note: The above may sound like a real pain but the beauty in it is that with everything out, after the sound deadening is applied, this is when you are going to run your supply, ground, pre-amp out wiring,and speaker wiring...oh... and mount the amps!
2) Perform a double din conversion to your HVAC area and then install a Double din head unit. I am a tremendous fan of Kenwood. I had Pioneer head units...2 to be exact... and I think Pioneer head units are awful.
3) Get two Alpine class D amplifiers: One will be a mono block for bass. I recommend 500W. The other will be a 4 Channel for mid and highs. I recommend 100W/channel. There are a few different mounting options. My preference was the "Stealth" option where the amps are mounted behind the seats on the bulkhead. However, some guys get an Amp rack with cooling fans. If you go this route, you can save some money on the amps and don't need the class D's because the amp rack and support motorized cooling fans. Hopefully, someone will chime in if you want to go this route. I believe you can buy the rack or build it yourself.
4) Speakers....you will get lots of opinions on this. Here is what I went with...
Subwoofer: JL Audio 10" W6V3 which is in a bass hang box. Very important: The JL Audio sub can support a sealed bass enclosure of X square ft. Make sure your bass hang box is within or near this spec.
Woofers:
Fronts: Component Speakers for sure. Many different to choose from. I recommend Focals.
Rears: Alpine SPC13's. They have done the job fine.
Dennis at Double D Mod's has fabulous pricing and outstanding customer service. He can get you setup. For example, one thing you will need is a double din radio bezel... Dennis has them.
07-08-2015, 09:40 AM
#13
Le Mans Master
Pro Mechanic
Here is what I did as part of my Grand Sport project (start at post #48 for the stereo info)...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...project-3.html
...sounds like you may want a new HU, which I did not do, but maybe you can pick up a few ideas that will help.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...project-3.html
...sounds like you may want a new HU, which I did not do, but maybe you can pick up a few ideas that will help.
07-08-2015, 10:13 AM
#14
Melting Slicks
I'm going to start collecting do to my system, I already have a corner sub box on order from Marc (vettenuts)
these cars are not all that hard to remove every thing I was able to gut my z06 in about 1.5 hours when I installed a pre-cut insulation kit, one person the driver seat was a little tricky for me to unplug while holding the seat up at the same time but other then that its straight forward
tips!
run the power & amp turn on wires for your amps on one side and all your RCA & speaker wires on the other (drivers speaker & RCA / Passenger power & turn'ons) to keep un-wanted engine noise down, really pay attention to the + & - connections to make sure you get them right as well as the RCA left & right channels a nice system out of phase will sound like crap if not proper, seal the doors to best you can cover all openings it will make your speakers sound much better!
use the proper gauge wiring for your power lever of your amps and speakers to make sure they get enough power if not you will hate the out come (not enough bass or your mids & high's will sound horrible when turned up)
figure out what speakers you want to use then keep the amps RMS per channel rating under the speakers RMS rating (always look at RMS not PEEK power!) other then that just good connection (soldered or crimp) stay away from electrical tape as much as possible
a true 40 to 50 watts RMS for your mids & high's is really plenty with good quality speakers, depending on your sub or subs and how much bass you like 300 to 600 RMS watts will get the job done unless you like a system with heavy bass, I prefer a soft dome tweeter they sound less harsh and more true IMO
if you have any questions shoot me a pm!
these cars are not all that hard to remove every thing I was able to gut my z06 in about 1.5 hours when I installed a pre-cut insulation kit, one person the driver seat was a little tricky for me to unplug while holding the seat up at the same time but other then that its straight forward
tips!
run the power & amp turn on wires for your amps on one side and all your RCA & speaker wires on the other (drivers speaker & RCA / Passenger power & turn'ons) to keep un-wanted engine noise down, really pay attention to the + & - connections to make sure you get them right as well as the RCA left & right channels a nice system out of phase will sound like crap if not proper, seal the doors to best you can cover all openings it will make your speakers sound much better!
use the proper gauge wiring for your power lever of your amps and speakers to make sure they get enough power if not you will hate the out come (not enough bass or your mids & high's will sound horrible when turned up)
figure out what speakers you want to use then keep the amps RMS per channel rating under the speakers RMS rating (always look at RMS not PEEK power!) other then that just good connection (soldered or crimp) stay away from electrical tape as much as possible
a true 40 to 50 watts RMS for your mids & high's is really plenty with good quality speakers, depending on your sub or subs and how much bass you like 300 to 600 RMS watts will get the job done unless you like a system with heavy bass, I prefer a soft dome tweeter they sound less harsh and more true IMO
if you have any questions shoot me a pm!
Last edited by Stroker87; 07-08-2015 at 10:26 AM.
07-08-2015, 04:03 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
HEY guys, sorry for late replys, been at work all day. instead of multi quoting, i will multi reply to each of you.
SYDWAYZ--after looking back at my reply, it may have came across a little snippy lol. not what i meant at all. when i visited crutchfield it was way too overwhelming for me. and when i did select my car, nothing model specific came across, so either im an idiot, or the site just isnt for me LOL after seeing some replys i dont want to rush this and regret not doing it right so my plans are to wait till winter now. thanks again
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
Z06 cracker--man i have had pioneer for ever, but lately ive seen nothing but kenwood and have LOVED them. i just missed one for sale on the classifieds that was a STEAL. thats kinda what got me started on this process. i am stoked to get the sound deadening material down but im not fully committed to pulling up the carpet.
Chicago1--i know ive heard LOL thanks man
4XLR8N--thats a slick set up man, i like the mounting of the amp for sure. do you know if there is enough space under the box that fills the well in the center of the trunk (z06)
STROKER87--winter for us is the best time for mods huh!! thanks for the heads up on the rpm power and the +/- connections, that has to be a MUST for great sound
futureOWNR--im trying to decide whether to fully commit and pull the carpet for sound deadening , or do a weekend project before winter like yours. i believe i could get the thing wired in a weekend.
guess need to start at double d and get this ball rolling i guess
SYDWAYZ--after looking back at my reply, it may have came across a little snippy lol. not what i meant at all. when i visited crutchfield it was way too overwhelming for me. and when i did select my car, nothing model specific came across, so either im an idiot, or the site just isnt for me LOL after seeing some replys i dont want to rush this and regret not doing it right so my plans are to wait till winter now. thanks again
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
Z06 cracker--man i have had pioneer for ever, but lately ive seen nothing but kenwood and have LOVED them. i just missed one for sale on the classifieds that was a STEAL. thats kinda what got me started on this process. i am stoked to get the sound deadening material down but im not fully committed to pulling up the carpet.
Chicago1--i know ive heard LOL thanks man
4XLR8N--thats a slick set up man, i like the mounting of the amp for sure. do you know if there is enough space under the box that fills the well in the center of the trunk (z06)
STROKER87--winter for us is the best time for mods huh!! thanks for the heads up on the rpm power and the +/- connections, that has to be a MUST for great sound
futureOWNR--im trying to decide whether to fully commit and pull the carpet for sound deadening , or do a weekend project before winter like yours. i believe i could get the thing wired in a weekend.
guess need to start at double d and get this ball rolling i guess
07-08-2015, 04:13 PM
#17
Melting Slicks
>
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
<
True... this is a more expensive route to take. Some ways to save:
1) For now, keep the OEM speakers and get an integration boxes between the new head unit and the existing speakers.
2) Get a single 5 channel amp that will handle 4 channels for mids and 1 channel for bass (this saves buying one amp) and new speakers.
I do hope you do the sound deadening. From what I recall, you can get the needed materials for $200 or less. What is expensive here is your time. It took me two full days to do entire cabin, doors, and wheel well. At that time, you can lay all your wiring out for the future upgrade.
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
<
True... this is a more expensive route to take. Some ways to save:
1) For now, keep the OEM speakers and get an integration boxes between the new head unit and the existing speakers.
2) Get a single 5 channel amp that will handle 4 channels for mids and 1 channel for bass (this saves buying one amp) and new speakers.
I do hope you do the sound deadening. From what I recall, you can get the needed materials for $200 or less. What is expensive here is your time. It took me two full days to do entire cabin, doors, and wheel well. At that time, you can lay all your wiring out for the future upgrade.
07-08-2015, 04:51 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
dont be afraid to remove the carpet it really is very simple! all the trim peaces just pop in place you'll only need tools for the center console, radio/shift bezel & seats IIRC the carpet just pulls out once its all removed
I usually just gather every thing i'm going to install then tackle it in a day, the full system in a c5 with insulation 5 to 10 hours depending on your skills with wiring and how well you know the car its not something I'm planing on saving for winter just waiting and trying to find killer deals when the extra funds are around is my problem lol
I usually just gather every thing i'm going to install then tackle it in a day, the full system in a c5 with insulation 5 to 10 hours depending on your skills with wiring and how well you know the car its not something I'm planing on saving for winter just waiting and trying to find killer deals when the extra funds are around is my problem lol
07-08-2015, 05:03 PM
#19
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
>
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
<
True... this is a more expensive route to take. Some ways to save:
1) For now, keep the OEM speakers and get an integration boxes between the new head unit and the existing speakers.
2) Get a single 5 channel amp that will handle 4 channels for mids and 1 channel for bass (this saves buying one amp) and new speakers.
I do hope you do the sound deadening. From what I recall, you can get the needed materials for $200 or less. What is expensive here is your time. It took me two full days to do entire cabin, doors, and wheel well. At that time, you can lay all your wiring out for the future upgrade.
Z06ster--that may be a little outta my budget as i plan on saving, but dont want TOO much i guess. its been a while since (10 yrs) ive had a "proper" system. im not the best at planning this stuff out lol i do know these posts and links are very helpful for my plans
<
True... this is a more expensive route to take. Some ways to save:
1) For now, keep the OEM speakers and get an integration boxes between the new head unit and the existing speakers.
2) Get a single 5 channel amp that will handle 4 channels for mids and 1 channel for bass (this saves buying one amp) and new speakers.
I do hope you do the sound deadening. From what I recall, you can get the needed materials for $200 or less. What is expensive here is your time. It took me two full days to do entire cabin, doors, and wheel well. At that time, you can lay all your wiring out for the future upgrade.
a 5 ch amp sounds like a winner for sure. im leaning towards the sound deadening cause it helps with heat as well
dont be afraid to remove the carpet it really is very simple! all the trim peaces just pop in place you'll only need tools for the center console, radio/shift bezel & seats IIRC the carpet just pulls out once its all removed
I usually just gather every thing i'm going to install then tackle it in a day, the full system in a c5 with insulation 5 to 10 hours depending on your skills with wiring and how well you know the car its not something I'm planing on saving for winter just waiting and trying to find killer deals when the extra funds are around is my problem lol
I usually just gather every thing i'm going to install then tackle it in a day, the full system in a c5 with insulation 5 to 10 hours depending on your skills with wiring and how well you know the car its not something I'm planing on saving for winter just waiting and trying to find killer deals when the extra funds are around is my problem lol
when i see a killer deal, i know in my mind i gotta have it. especially if its from the forum. i love trading on the forums
07-08-2015, 05:25 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
i'm cursed every time i find a nice one no funds for it 
i'm also not sure what i want to use for mids & highs? last system i had i used JL Audio C2-650 6.5-Inch 2-Way Components witch after I sealed my doors sounded really good but been wanting to try Focal or Hertz so i'm not sure
5 channel amps are cool keeps things on the simple side, but some times its hard to really dial in the setup and if you really like to crank it up makes the amp work HARD and will over heat and shut down till it cools, with 2 amps if the bass amp over heats you'll still have the mids & highs playing... something to think about