prez1967

LONG TIME Corvette fan, been drooling over them since middle school when a classmates father picked him up from school in an orange '78 that for some reason took my breath away (back then).

Fast forward and I currently have my jollies in my 1993 Mustang GT that i've been fiddling with for the past 15 years. I've had plenty of fun cars in between to include BMWs, Subarues, VW, etc. Currently looking to replace my 2008 R32 and figured now is the time to get my "dream car".

I've found two cars i'm very interested in.

A: 2001 Coupe, Manual, loaded (silver/black), Z51, dual tops, etc. 50K miles, original owner. Only modification would be a custom single DIN Alpine stereo, dual 10" subs, Rockford Amps and Boston speakers. Clean car with only one minor blemish. Noticed that there was a constant humming when driving that didnt change in pitch based on speed (Wheel bearings?). Seller claims he is firm at $14,900. Originally a Michigan car thats currently in White Planes NY. Carfax checks out with what seller was telling me.

B: 2004 Coupe, Manual, (Silver/Black)similarly loaded but not sure if it has Z51. 109K, being sold at a "whole sale" dealership for $12,995. Seems to be bone stock, I'm scheduled to go drive it today or Monday. Carfax says its a 3 owner car. Seems to have started life as a Michigan car and bounced back from NC to OH and currently is offered in Leesburg, VA.

I'm located in Baltimore, MD. Assuming the 2004 is as clean as the 2001, would that be a better buy? The money is a non-issue, but not sure if the "newer" car would be better off for one reason or another. I'm hoping the seller of car A is willing to negotiate considering the car needs some maintenance. I asked him about fluid changes (brake,coolant, etc) and he told me its never been done. Im also not crazy about the amps/subs taking up so much space in trunk but that could always be swapped out im sure.

Big Vig

Id look into what that humming sound is on the 01. See if its a cheap fix. Id rather have a 50k mile vette then the 109k one. Then again ive always heard people say buy the newest one you can afford.

DetroitPlac

There were a host of changes that came for 2001, and it was really the last update for the (non-Z06) cars. I think any 01+ is a good buy.

That said, I put a lot of value in 1-owner or long-time owner cars because they know them inside and out (if they don't, it's a huge red flag to bail). If you can get a solid maintenance history on the car, that would be my choice. The amps and subs could likely be removed without a trace on sold on here for some money back. Given the mileage, $14.9k is a very reasonable price. If you got it for much less than that, you'd be entering great deal territory. Corvette pricing has a ton of seasonality, and this is the most expensive time to buy one (nice summer weather, everyone re-falls in love with them).

Now, the 2004 car wouldn't likely have any improvements over the 01. Double the miles, no solid owner history (or maintenance for that matter), and only a $2k discount. I don't really see the benefit there.

One thing to keep in mind if you don't buy either is what the option packages entail. Z51 really only means beefed up sway bars, springs, shocks, and power steering cooler. At this point, many cars will need new shocks anyway, and the sway bars are cheap and easy to upgrade with take-off parts you can buy on here. My car isn't a Z51 car, yet I scored a really cheap set of C5 Z06 sway bars (beefier than Z51) and bought a set of C6 Z06 shocks on rock auto for cheap. I left the base springs, and it rides extremely well. I track and auto-x the car and it does fantastic. Adding the power steering cooler is easy as well.

Good luck!

dadaroo

Make sure you pull the dash DIC codes before you go for a drive and record what is under each module and if they are H or C. Then delete them and go for a drive. BEFORE you turn the engine OFF pull them again and let us know if there is anything.

To pull them after the drive you will have to reset/delete any DIC messages that are on the screen in order to access the codes.




READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

prez1967

Excellent advice! I cant believe I forgot to check the codes yesterday. It completely slipped my mind. Too bad hes 3.5 hours away or I'd pop on back over.

I'm leaning towards the 2001 as it is. I figure once I find some reading on the buzzing noise and forward it to him, I may offer him the opportunity to keep the stereo equipment also since I'd rather have the trunk/compartment space but we'll see. It did sound good and it doesnt interfere with the storage of the tops. I can always base the sale on the contigency that reading the codes will not result in something unexpected.

I figured the shocks would probably need to be replaced on any car I'd purchase at this point thats whey Z51 wasnt too important to me. I've been eyeballing the Pfdadt suspension options already. But I didnt know that C6 Z06 shocks were a direct replacement. Food for thought

dadaroo

Could the buzzing be a relay in one of the fuse boxes? If you can get the buzzing while you are stopped you can place your fingers on the relays and find it if it is a relay.

Could it also be a bad speaker in the system?

Never thought of wheel bearings as buzzing.

calvins

I seem to recall reading (somewhere on the forum I think) that the Z51 antisways were the best option for the C5's when coupled with Z06 shocks. Something about the Z06 antisways being too big or too stiff for the C5 and actually could degrade handling.

Now, my memory isn't what it once was but I'm sure some of the more techie folks will jump in my.... errr..... correct me if I'm stating incorrectly.

The buzzing may be one of the speakers. Just something to check.

prez1967

The stereo was crystal clear in the 2001. We had it on and off during the generous test drive the owner offered me (actually took the car out twice). I've heard wheel bearing issues in other cars before, I'm almost certain thats the culprit.

Phanni

FWIW

There is one other area that a lot of people forget to inspect on higher mileage C-5s.
That is the harmonic balancer. Any LS-1 with mileage over 50,000 has the potential to have a balancer that is a bit 'wobbly'. Although this is often not a fatal flaw, it can be if it is ignored too long. Buyers of higher mileage Vettes should be sure to have this checked, because the replacement of the balancer is pricey. I just had mine done on my DD 2001 (couple of months ago) and it cost well over $1000. with parts and labor.

yaknow

hands down go with the lower mileage car

prez1967

buzzing stops as vehicle comes to a stop.

dadaroo

I would put the wheels off the ground and rotate them and see what you find. Might have to grab them and do the tug to the left and right, top to bottom and see if there is any play.

Maybe a CV joint?

Loose axle nut?

Torque tube couplers?

Vetteman Jack

I'd probably go with the '01 provides no adverse codes are found on the DIC and you can determine what the buzzing noise is and what the cost of repair would be.

bad455ta

If money is a non-issue then my vote is for the 2001. Less miles and 1 owner is worth the difference in actual age. These cars last forever and I'm not knocking 100K plus mile C5's but with the option to go half that its a no brainer. To my knowledge there is no difference in the 2001 to 2004 coupes.

Good luck!

DetroitPlac

Only difference is the fuel system in the tank (late 03). Earlier cars are generally preferred.

mr_get_iton

screw mileage, I'd go with the 04. That discount is more money for mods is the way I think. I'm sure the test drive will show the car is still 'tight' enough to make you forget about the odometer

Tuco

One owner lower mileage.
When they take it off the showroom floor 9 times out of 10 their is a lot more pride in ownership and care.
Sound is coming from where? And yes it can well be a bearing.

Me.....I always look for the one owner first in any car, and every one has worked out wonderful for me.

Scn1998

I'd go with the lower mileage as well. If you can't determine what the noise is I'd make the sale contingent on finding out what it is. Get the car checked out before purchasing.

napacruzerc5

What tires on the 2001? Original rock hard run-flats? Any run-flat can be noisy especially when worn.

jd911

I just bought my first Corvette about two weeks ago. My stupidity cost me $293.00 even though the problem was staring me right in the face in the picture the dealer had posted online.

Maybe it will save someone else some money.

Jim