john8642

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but what is the best way to torque the oil drain plug? The socket I have doesn't clear the frame cross member. Will a thin wall socket fit, or do you need to use a crow's foot?
Thanks

GCG

Using a crow's foot with a torque wrench will not apply the target torque to the plug. For it to be true, you have to use a socket, or be able to do the math for the lever effect introduced by the crow's foot.
Try to use a short socket with a "wobble" extension that would allow you move just the minimal angle needed to clear the cross member.

Chicago1

Open end takes 5 secs

175rgr

Open end wrench, tighten it down.

tandt

Who torques a drain plug, JEEZ!

R1 Rider

I never torque an oil plug, more importantly did you raise the rear of the car off the ground to properly drain the oil from the oil pan?

wcsinx

You ... seriously use a torque wrench on an oil drain plug?

Dude, just clean off the mating surfaces and snug it up with a box wrench.

tbrent

Maybe someone who doesn't know better, "GEEZ". Thus the post.

73Corvette

German torque specs... Gootntight

bluestreak63

Torque, schmorque...Loctite red 271...

Allieboy

Vetteman Jack

I just use a box end wrench and snug it up. Never had any problems with the plug leaking.

john8642

Thanks for the reply. I read Toque's write up, which called for torqueing the plug. I haven't done my own work on cars since the days of steel oil pans and engine blocks, and was a little worried about the aluminum threads. For the rest of the posters, I'm glad you got some entertainment from it.

phoneman91

I am surprised that you guys don't use a torque wrench on this drain plug. It threads into aluminum--and it can be stripped out. It happened to the original owner of my Corvette. The bottom of the oil pan had to be replaced on warranty.

Any time a steel plug is threaded into an aluminum pan--a torque wrench should be used in my opinion. And the oil filter should be torqued also.

I use a very short/shallow socket and I haven't had an issue with clearance.

yanmar

the oil pan on the c5 is aluminum and therefore subject to stripped threads when tightening drain plug, but you can do as i have done and use a 'fumoto engine drain valve ' which once installed, never needs to be taken out. easy to open, locks shut, saves time, and makes the job of changing oil a snap. the oil pan on c5 improves structural rigidity and if the pan has to come out due to stripped threads, well............

phoneman91

No, not trying to stir up trouble--but I bought my C5 from a Chevrolet dealer and drove it 500 miles and for some reason decided to change the new dealer installed motor oil--and found out that the oil filter was less than finger tight--it moved on the threads when accidentally touched with my forearm. It was ready to fall off and destroy my 10k engine!

I have worked on motorcycles for over 30 years and I have found out that any time steel is threaded into aluminum--it needs to be torqued correctly. As does anything relating to oil pressure and supply.

phoneman91

That is a neat idea--but the possibly of someone easily releasing that lever when it is parked in a public place--has always haunted me. No oil and you would start it up dry without realizing that there is zero oil pressure.

Kind of like someone that opens the kill switch on a motorcycle parked in a public space-- and then watches the rider come back and wonder why the bike will not start with the starter button!

Some sick people out there with weird humor. But you probably don't have sick people in your area!

imlowr2

Do not use Loctite red!!! I hope this guy is joking. Loctite red will lock the plug. In fact in some cases you need to use a torch to melt the loctite if you plan to remove it. If anything, you can use the blue Loctite. If your using Loctite red, you might as well use JB Weld, at least it won't leak!

phoneman91

True that!

GCG

You're welcome! and yes, they've been having fun!