Changing Oil + Filter
03-21-2016, 10:33 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Changing Oil + Filter
I'll be changing my 2000 FRC's oil & filter for the first time soon.
For oil, it's my understanding that Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w30 is the way to go. Just posting a thread in case recommendations have changed over the last 16 yrs.
For filters, any particular brand/type I should go with? (For my S10, I'd usually just run up to my local auto supply store and request a cheap filter.)
For oil, it's my understanding that Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w30 is the way to go. Just posting a thread in case recommendations have changed over the last 16 yrs.
For filters, any particular brand/type I should go with? (For my S10, I'd usually just run up to my local auto supply store and request a cheap filter.)
Popular Reply
03-21-2016, 01:48 PM
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
I will only say this once as if I can remember the words coming from Dave hills lips.
A C5 is a very unique car. Although the LSX motor lives in many cars. Its only the Y body Bottom breather " that runs in the 190F to 230 range, and a normal operating temperature.
The very special heat additive package required for a Y body LSX motor., without the package, shear and heat will break down the total additive package found in other synthetic oils. there is a reason the C5 was designed to run at these elevated temps, and a reason why the OLM was designed to make sure these motors could be certified to 200,000 miles. A very specific oil spec was made for these cars. I really don't care what anyone uses in their car. It no skin off my nose... Buying a used C5 from someone who ignored the Chief Design engineer for the C5, means the motor was abused, especially in climates that exceed ambient temps north of 90 F. when the additive package breaks down, so does the integrity of the lubrication system. There is no actual oil specimen used in the OLM, therefore, there is no means to determine if the wrong oil was used or the additive package destroyed due to shear. The OLM was designed to reflect operating conditions using the correct oil. Not the cheapest synthetic on the shelf.
Just an FYI... with no intent to argue or debate the point.
Bill aka ET
A C5 is a very unique car. Although the LSX motor lives in many cars. Its only the Y body Bottom breather " that runs in the 190F to 230 range, and a normal operating temperature.
The very special heat additive package required for a Y body LSX motor., without the package, shear and heat will break down the total additive package found in other synthetic oils. there is a reason the C5 was designed to run at these elevated temps, and a reason why the OLM was designed to make sure these motors could be certified to 200,000 miles. A very specific oil spec was made for these cars. I really don't care what anyone uses in their car. It no skin off my nose... Buying a used C5 from someone who ignored the Chief Design engineer for the C5, means the motor was abused, especially in climates that exceed ambient temps north of 90 F. when the additive package breaks down, so does the integrity of the lubrication system. There is no actual oil specimen used in the OLM, therefore, there is no means to determine if the wrong oil was used or the additive package destroyed due to shear. The OLM was designed to reflect operating conditions using the correct oil. Not the cheapest synthetic on the shelf.
Just an FYI... with no intent to argue or debate the point.
Bill aka ET
03-21-2016, 11:09 AM
#3
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I use Mobil 1 5W30 full synthetic oil in my car and I use the AC Delco PF 46 filter.
03-21-2016, 11:44 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
I use Mobil 1 High Mileage. It has more zinc and additives to condition seals. These engines are getting old. AC filter. There is a guy with 500K on his C5 that used Castrol so I might try it.
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Last edited by JR-01; 03-21-2016 at 11:45 AM.
03-21-2016, 12:08 PM
#7
Safety Car
I use whatever full synthetic oil I can get a deal on and usually a purolator filter.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
03-21-2016, 01:02 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
I use whatever full synthetic oil I can get a deal on and usually a purolator filter.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
03-21-2016, 01:03 PM
#10
Safety Car
03-21-2016, 01:18 PM
#11
Safety Car
03-21-2016, 01:48 PM
#12
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: small town in S.E Pa. PA
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
I will only say this once as if I can remember the words coming from Dave hills lips.
A C5 is a very unique car. Although the LSX motor lives in many cars. Its only the Y body Bottom breather " that runs in the 190F to 230 range, and a normal operating temperature.
The very special heat additive package required for a Y body LSX motor., without the package, shear and heat will break down the total additive package found in other synthetic oils. there is a reason the C5 was designed to run at these elevated temps, and a reason why the OLM was designed to make sure these motors could be certified to 200,000 miles. A very specific oil spec was made for these cars. I really don't care what anyone uses in their car. It no skin off my nose... Buying a used C5 from someone who ignored the Chief Design engineer for the C5, means the motor was abused, especially in climates that exceed ambient temps north of 90 F. when the additive package breaks down, so does the integrity of the lubrication system. There is no actual oil specimen used in the OLM, therefore, there is no means to determine if the wrong oil was used or the additive package destroyed due to shear. The OLM was designed to reflect operating conditions using the correct oil. Not the cheapest synthetic on the shelf.
Just an FYI... with no intent to argue or debate the point.
Bill aka ET
A C5 is a very unique car. Although the LSX motor lives in many cars. Its only the Y body Bottom breather " that runs in the 190F to 230 range, and a normal operating temperature.
The very special heat additive package required for a Y body LSX motor., without the package, shear and heat will break down the total additive package found in other synthetic oils. there is a reason the C5 was designed to run at these elevated temps, and a reason why the OLM was designed to make sure these motors could be certified to 200,000 miles. A very specific oil spec was made for these cars. I really don't care what anyone uses in their car. It no skin off my nose... Buying a used C5 from someone who ignored the Chief Design engineer for the C5, means the motor was abused, especially in climates that exceed ambient temps north of 90 F. when the additive package breaks down, so does the integrity of the lubrication system. There is no actual oil specimen used in the OLM, therefore, there is no means to determine if the wrong oil was used or the additive package destroyed due to shear. The OLM was designed to reflect operating conditions using the correct oil. Not the cheapest synthetic on the shelf.
Just an FYI... with no intent to argue or debate the point.
Bill aka ET
Last edited by Evil-Twin; 03-21-2016 at 01:52 PM.
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03-21-2016, 02:15 PM
#15
Safety Car
Costco has really good deals on Mobil 1 as well. Last time I got a 6 pack for around $25 after the instant rebate. When the rebate isn't available I normally buy from Wally World. The only downside is that my Costco doesn't have the "high mileage" formula available which I normally prefer.
03-21-2016, 02:29 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
I use whatever full synthetic oil I can get a deal on and usually a purolator filter.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
Picked up 25 quarts of castrol a couple years back for about $30, and when that ran out I got a deal on pennzoil for about $2 a pop. Grabbed about 30 of those so I have some time before I run out again.
I usually buy Castrol or Mobil 1 whichever is on sale and use Wix filters, which I purchased in bulk about a year ago.
Last edited by Sinister-one; 05-17-2016 at 11:18 PM.
03-21-2016, 02:45 PM
#17
Safety Car
The one I got was $1 a quart. It turned out to be a mistake but I already had packed the trunk of the vette full and paid
03-21-2016, 05:30 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
I only use moble1 5w30 full synthetic, for one its whats recommended and besides that in my last zo6 i tried others and the engine seamed nosier on startup i didnt like that so i just keep using M1, its not really that big a of deal to me since i change my oil every 2700 to 3200 miles (yeah i know i can go longer) but keeps me busy, makes me feel better and brings a smile to my face every time the drain plug dont have any metal stuck to it 
i really dont know if one is better then the other seams like you read one day M1 is bad then its good just like most of the rest i personally think long as its a brand name you should be find but i'm not expert
i really dont know if one is better then the other seams like you read one day M1 is bad then its good just like most of the rest i personally think long as its a brand name you should be find but i'm not expert
