LannyL81

Found the reason why the hood light does not work; corroded contacts with one contact completely gone. This is at the connector pair on the right side of the radiator, not the hood light itself.

Anyone happen to know how to remove the contacts out of the connector body?

I thought these were weather pack contacts, but have not been able to find these; so anyone have any information on the contacts?

Thanks

Pounder

I just leave mine unplugged !!!!

Rico7142

Same here!

LannyL81

But it would be nice to have a light should I need it.

I did figure out how to get the contacts out of the body..now I would like to find some new contacts.

I also just installed new front wheel bearings and just before I tossed the old bearings out I noticed the ABS connector was the same as the hood light....so clip...clip and now I have two. So I could just solder one of these in and all would be fine or I can continue to try to locate these contacts.

LannyL81

Quick update: found that the connector type is a Metri Pack...not Weather Pack. Also found that the contacts are 18-16 Gauge, 280 series.....in case anyone ever needs this info.

Guess I will be soldering the old ABS connector in as min buy of the contacts is more than I would use in a couple of lifetimes.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for the info - saved it for future reference.

chasboy

I removed the original bulb, contacts and installed 2 bolt lights thru the cover/lens on my Z. Much more light. Connecting the wires was the easiest part of the job

LannyL81

chasboy: I edit'ed my original posting as I had not stated that the corroded contacts were in the connector that provides power to the hood light, not the hood light itself.
Are these "bolt lights" what are found on motorcycles for license plates lights?

Now that I will have power to the hood light, I am thinking to go with the 48 LED panel mod along with an inline switch.

chasboy

Yes they are. Do the 48 LED resist water? Or would they be enclosed in the stock unit? Friend of mine added an identical one to the drivers side,

LannyL81

Have not seen the 48 LED array for myself, only pictures, but I would think it needs to be inside the housing. Someone on here posted pictures of using the 48 LED array and looks good to me. I do not know the details of how they mounted the array inside the housing.

Adding one to the driver's side would be nice. Did you friend add a stock light or an LED light?

chasboy

He used stock lights with LED bulbs. It's also switched so he can turn them off for daytime shows. I had the bolt lights laying around, but I'm not sure if the 48 will fit inside. I removed the entire light for fabrication purposes, and dealing with the contact/wiring is no biggie.

ascastil

My supercharger belt removed that pesky light for me.

vetintheblood

The switch is a great idea - pix?

pewter99

pic of what you need I may have one laying around if you are interested

chasboy

I will look for a pic, not sure if I took one, however a natural location is thru the wall of the battery compartment. If you have a cover, the wiring is hidden and the switch ****/rocker/whatever is all you see.

Floridasky

Been unplugged since I bought the car in 2002.

Jeff T.

LannyL81

Need another favor: power for the hood light, the connector that attaches to the radiator/condenser cover has two contacts, one "A" other "B"; need to know if "A" is +12Vdc or "B" is.

I have soldered-on pig-tails and want to make sure I put the contacts in the connector body correctly.

Thanks in advance.

LannyL81

Not quite: I can easily check the polarity of the two wires but it is knowing which goes into which position I am not able to determine since the hood lamp does not care which is "+" and which is "-" and the "-" side is isolated from frame in the hood lamp assembly.

So I still need to know if "+" goes into connector position "A" or "B".

Thanks

LannyL81

Sorry, but still disagree: the hood lamp or bulb itself does not have a diode in it so does not care about polarity. Now the hood lamp wiring does care about polarity since not a good thing to connect "+" to return/frame...LOL....

Agree that polarity of the wires can be determined using a multimeter, just not which goes into which contact position....

Or I really missing something here....which has been known to occur....LOL....


Anyways thanks for looking the info up for me. Now I can insert the contacts into the connector body in the correct orientation.