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I tried searching for a thread that covered this exact topic but came up empty handed.
I had the brake fluid flushed in my '01 coupe recently. After inspecting the work done by the dealership I realized that the master cylinder reservoir is filthy. The brake fluid is clean, but there is buildup inside the reservoir that causes the fluid to look dirty.
My question is:
Am I able to remove the master cylinder reservoir and clean it without having to bleed the brakes? If so, is there a DIY available or are there instructions available to do this?
I was thinking of removing the brake fluid with a syringe that I use to perform the "Ranger Method", and then removing the reservoir, cleaning, reinstalling, and refilling. Is this possible?
I understand that this will not likely have an impact on the performance of the braking system, but if I could clean the reservoir out then my OCD itch will be scratched.
I disassembled mine and cleaned the guts and the reservoir with brake parts cleaner. Got about 80% of the reservoir cleaned up. I also know how to bleed my systems and have all the nice tools to make it easy.
Chris
I cleaned my master cylinder with 6" long q-tips. after I removed almost all of the fluid, I was able to remove most of the gunk, but only in the rear resevoir area that has the fill cap. it looks a lot better
I wouldn't mess with it. Air in the master is no fun.
Actually the master cyl. is the easiest part in the system to bleed, as a tech we loved master cyl. replaces, was fast and easy money, compared to any other part in the brake system. As with many repairs to a car or truck people are intimated and fear different parts they are not comfortable working on and that makes the job harder than it might normally be.
Actually the master cyl. is the easiest part in the system to bleed, as a tech we loved master cyl. replaces, was fast and easy money, compared to any other part in the brake system. As with many repairs to a car or truck people are intimated and fear different parts they are not comfortable working on and that makes the job harder than it might normally be.
I must have done my truck wrong, it was a pain in the you know what after I swapped out the master. I later read I should have bench bled it first, maybe that was my problem? Either way, I got tired of taking the wheels off to keep bleeding the system but I guess I needed the exercise anyway
I must have done my truck wrong, it was a pain in the you know what after I swapped out the master. I later read I should have bench bled it first, maybe that was my problem? Either way, I got tired of taking the wheels off to keep bleeding the system but I guess I needed the exercise anyway
Steve, that is why I get into debates with some, because of all my experience I take for granted things I learned thru all my years of wrenching and that they will read the instructions (if available). yes bench bleeding is very important, I also use the gravity method as often as I can, so I am not pumping air into the system. I also cannot remember not using a pressure bleeder. The Automated Bleed with the Tech 2 on my vette this past winter was fun !!!!
Steve, that is why I get into debates with some, because of all my experience I take for granted things I learned thru all my years of wrenching and that they will read the instructions (if available). yes bench bleeding is very important, I also use the gravity method as often as I can, so I am not pumping air into the system. I also cannot remember not using a pressure bleeder. The Automated Bleed with the Tech 2 on my vette this past winter was fun !!!!
Appreciate it. If I ever have to do it again I think I'll be able to do a better job. Usually I learn a better way to do things after the fact, then never have to do it again, haha. I do have a motive power bleeder, but I think I simply introduced too much air into the system which took multiple bleeds to purge. Either way, worked great after it was all done but sure seemed to take forever since it requires multiple bleeds! I also got to do a new booster at the same time since the master failed and leaked brake fluid into the booster, fun times, not!
Appreciate it. If I ever have to do it again I think I'll be able to do a better job. Usually I learn a better way to do things after the fact, then never have to do it again, haha. I do have a motive power bleeder, but I think I simply introduced too much air into the system which took multiple bleeds to purge. Either way, worked great after it was all done but sure seemed to take forever since it requires multiple bleeds! I also got to do a new booster at the same time since the master failed and leaked brake fluid into the booster, fun times, not!
AKApounder is absolutely correct, remove your master cyl. and clean till your hearts content or replace it if you want. Then bench bleed it and reinstall and you will good.
i haven't done this because I doubt it's necessary. But if I were so inclined, would suck as much fluid as possible out with turkey baster. Then stuff lint free cloth in there and mop around with a dowel, socket extension or something. Pull the cloth out with some forceps. Refill the cyl and ride happy.
07-29-2016, 01:13 PM
How To Clean Master Cylinder Reservoir?
