Dublbubl

What do you do to winterize your corvette.
1- should the tank be full. Sta-bil or startron?
2- when using a cover. Windows up tight or cracked?
3- Tires off the concrete? Place carpet squares under tires?
4- battery tender. Leave on full time if it's automatic.?
5- WD-40 spray on metal motor components?
Any other good tips.

JR-01

Over-inflate tires 5-10 pounds.
Staybil and Techron
Full tank
I pull battery and store in basement on tender.
Mothballs in battery compartment and under car.
Stainless steel pot scrubbers in tailpipes.
Unlatch convertible top
Treat rubber with silicone grease
Spray 303 protectant on tires, interior vinyl and seats.
Wax exterior
Cover

If your garage gets damp, it would not hurt to park it on a vapor barrier and put a tub of stay dri desecant in it.

BADBIRDCAGE

Put the top up

DDaaryl

At the end of the season I recommend you fill the fuel tank with ethanol free marine fuel which is available in your area. I'd also add a 20 oz can of Techron. I leave the battery in the car with a good quality tender (not the Harbor Freight $5 unit). The rest depends on whether you store in a garage or not.

calvins

When I lived in upstate NY, to winterize I did the following:

Washed and polished
changed oil and filter
filled the tank with 93 octane
tires +5lbs
bounce dryer sheets in engine compartment and interior
steel wool in pipes covered by 'baggies' held on with rubber bands
left the battery in the car, hooked up, Battery Tender Plus hooked up
cover with CoverCraft winter cover and woke it up in the spring.

And they sat outside on blacktop. Changed the oil again in the Spring too. I know, I know.... overkill, but cheap insurance in my opinion so hold the poison darts.

I ALWAYS freekin' forgot to pull the baggies off and the steel wool out of the pipes before firing it up in the Spring. Was kind fun to see how far they shot though.

Never had an issue with this procedure

Crosis

I "winterize"by throwing a windbreaker on. Top stays down though.

deejbee

Here is what I am doing, and I have been storing various sports cars and sport trucks for years now

1: Wash it
2: Check the oil level
3: Pour a bottle of Techron in it and put some gas in it
4: Park it
5: Disconnect the battery
6: Go back in the spring, reconnect the battery and drive away

Have done this for years and never have had problems with any vehicles.

Mind you, this year it is going to be in a heated parking facility so I am not so worried about cold temperatures.

Vetteman Jack

My answers are in red above.

You can also place some dryer sheets in the engine bay/interior to keep unwanted critters from taking up residence. Also, putting in some Techron concentrate along with the Sta-Bil will help keep the fuel gauge sensors clean.

Xavierbank

Quick question, I park my vette in storage unit not heated what will happen if I leave battery connected. Will start it occasionally....

leadfoot4

Depends on what you mean by "start it occasionally". C-5s tend to run the battery down in 10-12 days, due to parasitic drains inherent to the various electrical components. So, unless you intend to start the car every week, or so, just leaving it then coming back in 3-4 weeks, you might find a dead battery.

My car is stored at home, but in an attached garage. I do NOT trust leaving a battery charger/tender hooked up 24/7, so once a week, usually on a day when I'm out "exercising the snowblower", I'll put the battery charger on the car for an hour or so. I start mine 2-3 times, during the winter.

Been doing it that way, with various cars, since the late 1970s......

Xavierbank

will start it at least once a week, so it's cool to leave the cable on...

leadfoot4

Xavierbank

Thanks

JR-01

According to the experts, if you don't drive it for 20-30 minutes it's not a good idea to start it every week. It adds moisture to the crankcase, not to mention 90% of wear occurs during cold/dry startup. Removing the battery eliminates some potential problems.
https://www.hemmings.com/magazine/hs...e/1395911.html

Xavierbank

Ok what would be a good solution to that ???? or other alternative...

JR-01

I don't start mine until spring. Battery is in the basement on a maintainer. Idling a car for 30 minutes once a week in the winter does more harm than good according to hardcore car collectors.

Macleod52

I do the following.

1. Change oil at the end of October/Beginning of November
2. Wash the car at the end of October/Beginning of November
3. Drive it around until we're about to have our first snowfall or I've about used a tank of gas then I'll put a can of seafoam in and fill up my tank (I always have less than 1/2 a tank at this point).
4. I remove the battery and store it in the basement. I put a charger on it once every two weeks or month.
5. In spring I'll put the battery back in and drive like normal.

I don't over inflate my tires (I have run flats and never had any flat spots) and I do drive it once or twice during the winter if we haven't gotten any snow or the roads are clear. I also normally store from November-March/April.

One thing I will not do is start the car and just let it idle that does more damage than good. If I'm going to start it I will be driving it to get all fluids warmed up.

jackthelad

Tough living in those northern climes. My "winterization" got done yesterday - bringing tire pressure back up to nominal after the colder weather set in. 30 had gone down to 25 all round, now back to 30. May have to do it again round Dec/Jan when temps head into the teens and below.

leadfoot4

But if you DON'T start it up 2-3 times during the winter, and run the heat, and the a/c, you run the risk of seals and gaskets drying out, and the valve springs sitting in one position for months.


The "moisture in the crankcase" is fixed by an oil change, when you put the car back on the road. However, since it's still a free country, you can do whatever you like. As I previously said, I've been practicing my ritual for 40 years, with no ill effects....

JR-01

You can do what you want, but the experts don't recommend starting and idling for a half hour every week. That's 12 hours of idling every winter. That moisture and vapors form acid and corrosive compounds in the crankcase that eat at metals, seals and gaskets and forms sludge.
Seals and gaskets don't "dry out" sitting in a box on the shelf why would they "dry out' in the engine?. Modern seals and gaskets are a lot better now than in the old days. Not to mention most wear occurs during cold start up. I have been storing cars since 1969 and never start them in the winter. Never had an issue. Do the research and decide for yourself. I have decided for myself.