Air Conditioning - Intermittent AC Issue
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Air Conditioning - Intermittent AC Issue
I’ve got a 2001 convertible with an odd A/C issue. At the end of last summer, the A/C started acting a little strange. Sometimes it would put out what felt like “room” temperature air, while at other times it would blow 45 degrees (100 degrees outside).
Not sure if is a coincidence that I have my driver’s side knee pad, HVAC sensor, and other related components semi disassembled to replace the multi-function switch. The HVAC sensor is securely plugged in and dangling in the spot where it belongs. Any thoughts, similar experiences, or some other possibilities before I reassemble the MFS project just in case this would require taking the same thing apart.
Thanks
Not sure if is a coincidence that I have my driver’s side knee pad, HVAC sensor, and other related components semi disassembled to replace the multi-function switch. The HVAC sensor is securely plugged in and dangling in the spot where it belongs. Any thoughts, similar experiences, or some other possibilities before I reassemble the MFS project just in case this would require taking the same thing apart.
Thanks
Last edited by Ran-D; 01-03-2017 at 12:28 AM.
#3
Drifting
Does the A/C light on the HVAC unit go out when you feel the temp change? Have you looked to see if the clutch is still engaged when this happens? Could be a few things....could just be low on refrigerant. Need more info....
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Other than working on the MFS, nothing major changed in 10 years.
Not sure about the A/C light and it's probably too cold to check this time of year. What other info needed?
Not sure about the A/C light and it's probably too cold to check this time of year. What other info needed?
Last edited by Ran-D; 01-03-2017 at 11:05 PM.
#7
Instructor
What is the OAT reading on the HVAC display? I replaced my defective (leaking) A/C compressor and had the same issue. My display was out so I soldered the resistors and got it working only to find that on a 90* day it showed 55*. I replaced the OAT sensor and the display then read the correct temp and the A/C worked like a champ.
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Ran-D (01-18-2017)
#8
1/4 mile/AutoX
maybe this can help ??
#9
There is a trick that works surprisingly often. This is from another thread:
1.) Clear the DIC's and be sure your ac and car is off
2.) Go to your passenger side floor board
3.) Find the fuse box access panel
4.) Pull the top of the panel out a little to break the top velcro strips loose
5.) Pick up on the bottom of the panel and it should come free
6.) Locate Fuse # 27, it's the 10 amp fuse
7.) Pull it
8.) Wait a FULL 60 seconds
9.) Put back in the # 27 fuse (be sure its good)
10.) Put the bottom of the fuse box access panel in first
11.) Push the top of the fuse box access panel to secure
12.) CRANK her up
13.) Car will recalibrate the actuator, about a minute
14.) Clear codes again...shouldnt come back up....
AC should be working!
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
What is the OAT reading on the HVAC display? I replaced my defective (leaking) A/C compressor and had the same issue. My display was out so I soldered the resistors and got it working only to find that on a 90* day it showed 55*. I replaced the OAT sensor and the display then read the correct temp and the A/C worked like a champ.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
What is the OAT reading on the HVAC display? I replaced my defective (leaking) A/C compressor and had the same issue. My display was out so I soldered the resistors and got it working only to find that on a 90* day it showed 55*. I replaced the OAT sensor and the display then read the correct temp and the A/C worked like a champ.
I am not a codes expert BUT all of the codes are history.
There is a trick that works surprisingly often. This is from another thread:
1.) Clear the DIC's and be sure your ac and car is off
2.) Go to your passenger side floor board
3.) Find the fuse box access panel
4.) Pull the top of the panel out a little to break the top velcro strips loose
5.) Pick up on the bottom of the panel and it should come free
6.) Locate Fuse # 27, it's the 10 amp fuse
7.) Pull it
8.) Wait a FULL 60 seconds
9.) Put back in the # 27 fuse (be sure its good)
10.) Put the bottom of the fuse box access panel in first
11.) Push the top of the fuse box access panel to secure
12.) CRANK her up
13.) Car will recalibrate the actuator, about a minute
14.) Clear codes again...shouldnt come back up....
AC should be working!
There is a trick that works surprisingly often. This is from another thread:
1.) Clear the DIC's and be sure your ac and car is off
2.) Go to your passenger side floor board
3.) Find the fuse box access panel
4.) Pull the top of the panel out a little to break the top velcro strips loose
5.) Pick up on the bottom of the panel and it should come free
6.) Locate Fuse # 27, it's the 10 amp fuse
7.) Pull it
8.) Wait a FULL 60 seconds
9.) Put back in the # 27 fuse (be sure its good)
10.) Put the bottom of the fuse box access panel in first
11.) Push the top of the fuse box access panel to secure
12.) CRANK her up
13.) Car will recalibrate the actuator, about a minute
14.) Clear codes again...shouldnt come back up....
AC should be working!
#4) My panel cover just has a thumb screw for removal. Not sure what you're referring to in regards to the velcro strips.
#5) At a loss, my fuses are exposed was the cover is removed.
#6) The panel cover refers to fuse 27 as "HVACCON". Is this the fuse you're actually referring to?
Could steps 4 and 5 refer to a year different than my 2001?
Sounds like an easy thing to try, but won't know the results til AC weather returns sometime in April.
Thanks.
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
Looks a bit challenging to follow for my level. I'm going to try the battery disconnect for an hour, fuse 27 suggestion, and maybe a Freon level check first. Of course I won't be to know the results until it warms up enough for AC use. I'll revisit your helpful tips, with a more knowledgeable friend, if none of the easy tips works.
Thanks
Thanks