Alien c4

I'll have my car on a lift next week to install new rotors/pads. I'm going to do a differential fluid change as well.

While it's lifted, I'd like to get all up in there and clean out any leaves/debris that has likely collected around the radiator. (I'm not currently experiencing any cooling issues).

I've seen the procedure from the top side of the car. But I'm wondering if it's easier to get up there from below without taking much, if anything apart?

What say you?

Also, what else should I check and do while she's lifted?

Vetteman Jack

You can get quite a bit of debris out of the radiator area by cleaning out the frontal area, but a lot of debris can collect in the area behind the radiator and to get that out, you really need to go in from the top IMO.

I clean out the area in front of the radiator every time I detail the car and I feel that helps a lot in ensuring the cooling remains in good shape.

twostepdon

It would be a good time to clean your udders. Remove the passenger side front tire and remove the access panel on the rear of the fender well. That will give you access to the udders on the passenger side.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ur-udders.html

JETZ

Always keep yer UDDERS clean, you just never know...



frank

Scylla

You can clean the radiator easily on a lift, I check mine every time the car is up. Very few leaves have ever actually built up under there, I think that problem is somewhat exaggerated

runner140*

Now those are utters!

runner140*

I think it matters where you live. Plastic bags and a T-shirt are two of many things I collected.

Velocity_Vette

I jack my car in my garage without a lift. It's about as much fun as you can imagine. Since I'm now lowered a little also it's even more "fun"; jack up the rear first via the rear diff cradle, and then jack up each end up front.

Some things I'd do:

- Everything above regarding cleaning radiator & condenser area and also cleaning the drain udders. If you're having trouble "seeing" up the radiator from below remove the radiator shroud to let light in (I do the opposite; I leave the car on the ground, remove the shroud, and then blow the debris out through the bottom; takes less than five minutes to remove the air bridge and radiator shroud).

- Since the passenger front wheel will be off remove the PCM access panel and check all the connections, clean & remove any debris. The PCM controls a lot of driveability functions of the car.

- If a differential fluid change is being done it needs to be checked for "leaky butt" (very common on a C5). It can be usually left alone if it's not much but since the car is in the air it's a good time to have the work done and not have to worry about it. To do both sides usually costs in the neighborhood of $800-$1,200.

- I use this time to detail the wheel wells and clean the furthest point of the wheel shrouds that accumulate a lot of dirt against the body panels. I scrub them down really good with soap and water, dry them, and since they are molded "plastic" in black use a tire shine or similar to give them a glossy appearance. It's a good bit of detail work that can be done with all the wheels off and really helps the appearance of the car.

- I scrub and clean the air deflectors up front. I usually remove both the side ones and just scrub the center spring loaded one; it's not hard to remove, it's just the sides attach to body work and removing just them helps with detail work. It would also be a VERY good time to buy and install radiator support fangs if your C5 doesn't have them already. You can find them as cheap as $25.

- If you've had thoughts about ever lowering the car now would be the time to do it. Since the car is in the air pressure is relieved from both ends, allowing you to (typically) easily turn the leaf spring bolts and lower the car. Half an hour of work can produce very subtle results with the stock hardware before having to go to longer bolts. I'd read up on a few how-tos online if you've considered this since seriously having the car on a lift makes lowering it exceptionally simple.

Mike98SilVert

I suggest changing the dexcool. If the existing dexcool is still clear and the color looks and smells like when new then it has probably been changed regularly and pretty recently and only in this case won't necessarily need to be flushed. Be careful turning the fragile petcock to drain the coolant. If it's not been changed in a while, it may not flow out immediately since it may have gunked up the petcock but don't be too rough with it or you will need to purchase a new petcock.

If the sway bar end links are the original plastic end links then they are most likely twisted, cracked and worthless. You should replaced them and the bushings while the car is raised.

Absolutely change the brake fluid since you are replacing the pads and rotors.

S.C. vette

Shoot plenty of good pics of the underside for future reference or to use the day you sell it.