Column Lock Actuator -- with a CLB installed could it accidentially lock?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2004
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Column Lock Actuator -- with a CLB installed could it accidentially lock?
I've been thinking about the whole column lock fiasco and have a question...
I don't know if the column lock actuator is a servo motor, a solenoid, or what, but I was wondering with the column lock actuator unpowered (disconnected) and replaced with a CLB if there might be any way for the actuator to accidentially lock the steering wheel. For instance, could the pin slowly slide into the locked position over time?
If so, obviously this could cause a horrendous wreck... Has anyone looked in detail at the column lock actuator design and have any insight on this?
When GM does the fix on A4s they install the Harness K which has a relay AND a connection to the column lock actuator AND they install a blocking plate. If they aren't worried about the exact scenario I described above why would they install the blocking plate and connect the harness back to the actuator? Seems like the relay alone (basically just a CLB) would be enough....
???
I don't know if the column lock actuator is a servo motor, a solenoid, or what, but I was wondering with the column lock actuator unpowered (disconnected) and replaced with a CLB if there might be any way for the actuator to accidentially lock the steering wheel. For instance, could the pin slowly slide into the locked position over time?
If so, obviously this could cause a horrendous wreck... Has anyone looked in detail at the column lock actuator design and have any insight on this?
When GM does the fix on A4s they install the Harness K which has a relay AND a connection to the column lock actuator AND they install a blocking plate. If they aren't worried about the exact scenario I described above why would they install the blocking plate and connect the harness back to the actuator? Seems like the relay alone (basically just a CLB) would be enough....
???
#6
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by jo8243
I've been thinking about the whole column lock fiasco and have a question...
I don't know if the column lock actuator is a servo motor, a solenoid, or what, but I was wondering with the column lock actuator unpowered (disconnected) and replaced with a CLB if there might be any way for the actuator to accidentially lock the steering wheel. For instance, could the pin slowly slide into the locked position over time?
If so, obviously this could cause a horrendous wreck... Has anyone looked in detail at the column lock actuator design and have any insight on this?
When GM does the fix on A4s they install the Harness K which has a relay AND a connection to the column lock actuator AND they install a blocking plate. If they aren't worried about the exact scenario I described above why would they install the blocking plate and connect the harness back to the actuator? Seems like the relay alone (basically just a CLB) would be enough....
???
I don't know if the column lock actuator is a servo motor, a solenoid, or what, but I was wondering with the column lock actuator unpowered (disconnected) and replaced with a CLB if there might be any way for the actuator to accidentially lock the steering wheel. For instance, could the pin slowly slide into the locked position over time?
If so, obviously this could cause a horrendous wreck... Has anyone looked in detail at the column lock actuator design and have any insight on this?
When GM does the fix on A4s they install the Harness K which has a relay AND a connection to the column lock actuator AND they install a blocking plate. If they aren't worried about the exact scenario I described above why would they install the blocking plate and connect the harness back to the actuator? Seems like the relay alone (basically just a CLB) would be enough....
???
Picture a small D.C. motor driving a gear (probably worm-type) with the mating gear face attached to the pin. The motor would have to spin several revolutions (all on its own) to push the pin forward again. It isn't going anywhere.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2004
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Dan_the_C5_Man
Picture a small D.C. motor driving a gear (probably worm-type) with the mating gear face attached to the pin. The motor would have to spin several revolutions (all on its own) to push the pin forward again. It isn't going anywhere.
I guess my main question is this: When the column lock wiring harness is connected to the motor, is the motor being held in place by power constantly? Sort of like a servo in a remote control car or airplane? Or is power only applied when it is locked and unlocked? I didn't even pay attention when I was installing the CLB, but does the column lock motor have a 3-pin connector or is it only 2 pins? If it is 3 pins that probably means it is wired up like a servo (pos, neg, and control line). That case would worry me..... if it is a 2-pin connector I'll forget the whole thing.
Anyone remember??
#8
For what it's worth, a similar situation.
A couple of years ago, an automobile that I owned experienced a failure of the motor of the automatic trunk lid lowering mechanism. After taking it apart I discovered that it was a worm gear drive retractor. Since I didn't particularly care for this feature anyway (especially when I learned the cost of the replacement motor ), I figured why not just wind the motor/retractor all the way in manually and unplug the power connector thus locking the trunk latch in the down position. So I did. It closed fine and I saved the cost of a new motor. Now the kicker. After a week or so I happened to notice that the trunk lid did not appear to be fully closed. It wasn't. Apparently vibration from the vehicle being driven had caused the mechanism /motor to rotate allowing the latch plate to slowly move upwards (unlatch). Final resolution: I had to take the motor off altogether and wedge the gear mechanism immobile.
A couple of years ago, an automobile that I owned experienced a failure of the motor of the automatic trunk lid lowering mechanism. After taking it apart I discovered that it was a worm gear drive retractor. Since I didn't particularly care for this feature anyway (especially when I learned the cost of the replacement motor ), I figured why not just wind the motor/retractor all the way in manually and unplug the power connector thus locking the trunk latch in the down position. So I did. It closed fine and I saved the cost of a new motor. Now the kicker. After a week or so I happened to notice that the trunk lid did not appear to be fully closed. It wasn't. Apparently vibration from the vehicle being driven had caused the mechanism /motor to rotate allowing the latch plate to slowly move upwards (unlatch). Final resolution: I had to take the motor off altogether and wedge the gear mechanism immobile.
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Member Since: Sep 2004
Posts: 994
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's the type of failure I'm afraid of, although I wonder if in your trunk scenario if constant pressure from the trunk weatherstripping seals and etc against the latch slowly spun the worm gear open.
There are people on here who have had CLBs installed for years with no problems. It might be interesting to have one of them plug the cigarette lighter adapter back into the CL motor and see if they hear it move a little.
There are people on here who have had CLBs installed for years with no problems. It might be interesting to have one of them plug the cigarette lighter adapter back into the CL motor and see if they hear it move a little.
Last edited by jo8243; 10-07-2004 at 08:27 AM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by jo8243
That's the type of failure I'm afraid of, although I wonder if in your trunk scenario if constant pressure from the trunk weatherstripping seals and etc against the latch slowly spun the worm gear open.
There are people on here who have had CLBs installed for years with no problems. It might be interesting to have one of them plug the cigarette lighter adapter back into the CL motor and see if they hear it move a little.
There are people on here who have had CLBs installed for years with no problems. It might be interesting to have one of them plug the cigarette lighter adapter back into the CL motor and see if they hear it move a little.
No power holding it open or closed, even while the car is in operation.
I respect your "deep analysis" of this issue, but honestly, don't loose any sleep over it. I think the fact that folks have had these disconnected for years without an problem "proves" you won’t have one either. But you can always go the extra mile and pull the air bag / steering wheel and locking plate off (hell, remove the C.L. motor while you’re in there as well!). But I've heard getting to this stuff is a pain in the azz.