XSPower C5 Longtube Header LABOR DAY Special $45 off + Free Ship!
08-24-2011, 12:34 PM
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
XSPower C5 Longtube Header LABOR DAY Special $45 off + Free Ship!
XSPower Longtube Header Systems. For Corvette Forum members LABOR DAY SPECIAL, please type in Coupon code: C5LABOR to receive $45 off and still FREE SHIPPING to the 48 mainland US states 
SPECIAL RUNS THROUGH LABOR DAY, 9-5-11
This will make Forum pricing
Catted systems- $874 shipped
Offroad systems- $724 shipped
with normal pricing at $919 and $769 respectively
HOW TO ORDER:
You can order direct from the website at: http://shop.oversteeringonline.com/X...-XSPC5LTHS.htm
Please leave your CF username AND phone number in the description at checkout so I know who and where to send your tracking information
USE COUPON CODE: C5LABOR
XS Power Longtube headers / X-pipe
-Made of high quality 321 Stainless Steel
-Polished to a chrome like finish
-1 3/4" Primaries
-No O2 extensions required!
-Wideband bung in the X-pipe
-Available in either High Flow 220 cell cats or for Off-Road use
-3" X-pipe necked down to 2.5" at the very end to mate to most all catbacks!
-All hardware and gaskets included!
-01-04 AIR fittings with block-off plates!
-97-00’s can change to the 01-04 passenger AIR tube, modify their current tube if you want to keep AIR, or use the block off plates and delete AIR.
-Flanges are thick 7/16" and welds are gorgeous
-Spiked Race merge collectors!
-Complete all the way to the stock catback location!
Check here for customers who have the product and their thoughts along with install input/questions!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...er-thread.html
-Drivers side header slides right up and in from the bottom.
-Passenger side all that is needed is to drop the starter and it will slide right up and in from the bottom as well!
The CATs are metalic core European 220 cell units, VERY free flowing and legal! As a matter of fact, during testing the difference between the CATted versus NonCATted systems were negligable;
Clearences are very good all around, the primary O2 sensors are fine;
No issues with Sparkplugs;
Fly-By (mated to our XSPower 2.5" catback)
In car (mated to our XSPower 2.5" catback)
Here is the process I followed to remove my stock exhaust. I just made some notes of what I did and put them together for any of you that may want some direction of how to get the stock exhaust off. This is what I did!
1.) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.) Remove Oil Fill cap and Fuel Rail Covers http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00030.jpg
3.) Remove spark plug wires from coil packs, simply pull out. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00031.jpg
4.) Having another buddy to tackle one side of the engine bay while you tackle the other is very beneficial/time saving if you can trust their work! http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00037.jpg
5.) Disconnect connection on both coil packs. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00034.jpg
6.) Remove bolts connecting coil pack brackets to valve covers (10mm) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00035.jpg
7.) Remove coil packs on brackets from the valve covers. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00039.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00043.jpg
8.) Remove oil dipstick tube on passenger side. (10mm bolt on manifold) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00048.jpg
9.) Disconnect AIR fittings from manifolds on both sides. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00046.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00049.jpg
10.) Remove the accessory belt
11.) Remove alternator from bracket (2 large bolts) set alternator aside http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00075.jpg
12.) Safely raise vehicle leaving enough room to work under. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00050.jpg If you do not have access to a lift, refer to owner’s manual for proper instructions on lifting your Corvette.
13.) Remove 3 nuts/bolts on each side connecting the stock H-Pipe to the manifolds http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00051.jpg
14.) Remove the 2 bolts holding the stock H pipe up to car http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00053.jpg
15.) Remove O2 sensors in the H pipe, leave harnesses connected http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00055.jpg
16.) Remove 2 bolts per side connecting stock H pipe to your catback http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00057.jpg
17.) Support the H pipe while you remove the last 2 bolts connected to the spring mounts which will allow the h pipe to be removed http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00058.jpg
18.) Remove the H pipe http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00061.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00064.jpg
19.) Disconnect O2 sensors at the ends of each stock exhaust manifold
20.) Relocate to top of vehicle in engine bay
21.) Remove 10mm bolts connecting the manifolds to heads http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00047.jpg
22.) Remove stock exhaust manifolds out the top http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00068.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00073.jpg
23.) Now is a great/easy time to remove sparkplugs if you choose install new ones at this time.
24.) Your stock exhaust system is now removed!
25.) Move back under the vehicle
26.) Remove the 2 bolts holding starter to the block on the passenger side along with the 2 nuts holding the electrical connections.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00070.jpg
27.) Remove the starter wiring *note what attaches where*
28.) Remove the starter
29.) Place the passenger side header up into place, do not bolt down.
30.) With the header up into the engine bay now, slide the starter over the collector. If the header wants to fall out, having someone hold it here works well.
31.) Re-attach wiring to the starter with the header up into the engine bay but still completely unbolted.
32.) Bolt the starter up to the engine with the header still loose.
33.) With the header still loose, install your front O2 sensors
34.) Now bolt the header down to the engine, still leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
35.) Headers install from the BOTTOM
36.) Install drivers side header from the BOTTOM.
37.) Before bolting the header to the engine, install your front O2 sensor.
38.) Bolt the drivers side header to the engine, leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
39.) Fit the X-pipe up into the header collectors. With help, have someone hold the X-pipe while you re-install the rear O2 sensors and complete the next few steps.
40.) Use Copper Spray Gasket on the ball and socket flanges of the header collectors and X-pipe, loosely bolt the X-pipe to the headers. Using high-temp thread locker on these bolts is recommended.
41.) Moving back, slip the mid-pipes over the X-pipe and hang using the factory spring mounts.
42.) Connect the rear mid-pipes to the catback, don't forget the gasket!
43.) Moving forward, tighten the headers down the engine using proper torque and torquing method.
44.) Tighten the X-pipe down to the header collectors ensuring EVEN tightening to both side to draw the X-pipe in straight to prevent leaks.
45.) Install clamps to the X-pipe to Mid-pipe connection and tighten.
46.) Tighten the Mid-pipes down to the catback
47.) Go over all connections making sure they are properly tightened with everything aligned.
48.) After a heat cycle of the system, it is recommended to re-check all connections to make sure they are tight as the heat with expand the system.
49.) Re-install all factory items such as dipstick, plug wires, coil packs, alternator, and anything else that may have been removed for the removal of the stock system or the install of the new system.
-Jon
SPECIAL RUNS THROUGH LABOR DAY, 9-5-11
This will make Forum pricing
Catted systems- $874 shipped
Offroad systems- $724 shipped
with normal pricing at $919 and $769 respectively
HOW TO ORDER:
You can order direct from the website at: http://shop.oversteeringonline.com/X...-XSPC5LTHS.htm
Please leave your CF username AND phone number in the description at checkout so I know who and where to send your tracking information
USE COUPON CODE: C5LABOR
XS Power Longtube headers / X-pipe
-Made of high quality 321 Stainless Steel
-Polished to a chrome like finish
-1 3/4" Primaries
-No O2 extensions required!
-Wideband bung in the X-pipe
-Available in either High Flow 220 cell cats or for Off-Road use
-3" X-pipe necked down to 2.5" at the very end to mate to most all catbacks!
-All hardware and gaskets included!
-01-04 AIR fittings with block-off plates!
-97-00’s can change to the 01-04 passenger AIR tube, modify their current tube if you want to keep AIR, or use the block off plates and delete AIR.
-Flanges are thick 7/16" and welds are gorgeous
-Spiked Race merge collectors!
-Complete all the way to the stock catback location!
Check here for customers who have the product and their thoughts along with install input/questions!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-p...er-thread.html
-Drivers side header slides right up and in from the bottom.
-Passenger side all that is needed is to drop the starter and it will slide right up and in from the bottom as well!
The CATs are metalic core European 220 cell units, VERY free flowing and legal! As a matter of fact, during testing the difference between the CATted versus NonCATted systems were negligable;
Clearences are very good all around, the primary O2 sensors are fine;
No issues with Sparkplugs;
Fly-By (mated to our XSPower 2.5" catback)
In car (mated to our XSPower 2.5" catback)
Here is the process I followed to remove my stock exhaust. I just made some notes of what I did and put them together for any of you that may want some direction of how to get the stock exhaust off. This is what I did!
1.) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.) Remove Oil Fill cap and Fuel Rail Covers http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00030.jpg
3.) Remove spark plug wires from coil packs, simply pull out. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00031.jpg
4.) Having another buddy to tackle one side of the engine bay while you tackle the other is very beneficial/time saving if you can trust their work! http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00037.jpg
5.) Disconnect connection on both coil packs. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00034.jpg
6.) Remove bolts connecting coil pack brackets to valve covers (10mm) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00035.jpg
7.) Remove coil packs on brackets from the valve covers. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00039.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00043.jpg
8.) Remove oil dipstick tube on passenger side. (10mm bolt on manifold) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00048.jpg
9.) Disconnect AIR fittings from manifolds on both sides. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00046.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00049.jpg
10.) Remove the accessory belt
11.) Remove alternator from bracket (2 large bolts) set alternator aside http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00075.jpg
12.) Safely raise vehicle leaving enough room to work under. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00050.jpg If you do not have access to a lift, refer to owner’s manual for proper instructions on lifting your Corvette.
13.) Remove 3 nuts/bolts on each side connecting the stock H-Pipe to the manifolds http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00051.jpg
14.) Remove the 2 bolts holding the stock H pipe up to car http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00053.jpg
15.) Remove O2 sensors in the H pipe, leave harnesses connected http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00055.jpg
16.) Remove 2 bolts per side connecting stock H pipe to your catback http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00057.jpg
17.) Support the H pipe while you remove the last 2 bolts connected to the spring mounts which will allow the h pipe to be removed http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00058.jpg
18.) Remove the H pipe http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00061.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00064.jpg
19.) Disconnect O2 sensors at the ends of each stock exhaust manifold
20.) Relocate to top of vehicle in engine bay
21.) Remove 10mm bolts connecting the manifolds to heads http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00047.jpg
22.) Remove stock exhaust manifolds out the top http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00068.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00073.jpg
23.) Now is a great/easy time to remove sparkplugs if you choose install new ones at this time.
24.) Your stock exhaust system is now removed!
25.) Move back under the vehicle
26.) Remove the 2 bolts holding starter to the block on the passenger side along with the 2 nuts holding the electrical connections.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00070.jpg
27.) Remove the starter wiring *note what attaches where*
28.) Remove the starter
29.) Place the passenger side header up into place, do not bolt down.
30.) With the header up into the engine bay now, slide the starter over the collector. If the header wants to fall out, having someone hold it here works well.
31.) Re-attach wiring to the starter with the header up into the engine bay but still completely unbolted.
32.) Bolt the starter up to the engine with the header still loose.
33.) With the header still loose, install your front O2 sensors
34.) Now bolt the header down to the engine, still leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
35.) Headers install from the BOTTOM
36.) Install drivers side header from the BOTTOM.
37.) Before bolting the header to the engine, install your front O2 sensor.
38.) Bolt the drivers side header to the engine, leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
39.) Fit the X-pipe up into the header collectors. With help, have someone hold the X-pipe while you re-install the rear O2 sensors and complete the next few steps.
40.) Use Copper Spray Gasket on the ball and socket flanges of the header collectors and X-pipe, loosely bolt the X-pipe to the headers. Using high-temp thread locker on these bolts is recommended.
41.) Moving back, slip the mid-pipes over the X-pipe and hang using the factory spring mounts.
42.) Connect the rear mid-pipes to the catback, don't forget the gasket!
43.) Moving forward, tighten the headers down the engine using proper torque and torquing method.
44.) Tighten the X-pipe down to the header collectors ensuring EVEN tightening to both side to draw the X-pipe in straight to prevent leaks.
45.) Install clamps to the X-pipe to Mid-pipe connection and tighten.
46.) Tighten the Mid-pipes down to the catback
47.) Go over all connections making sure they are properly tightened with everything aligned.
48.) After a heat cycle of the system, it is recommended to re-check all connections to make sure they are tight as the heat with expand the system.
49.) Re-install all factory items such as dipstick, plug wires, coil packs, alternator, and anything else that may have been removed for the removal of the stock system or the install of the new system.
-Jon
Last edited by Superman09; 08-24-2011 at 03:07 PM.
08-27-2011, 03:28 PM
#6
Instructor
Superman - I am the proud new father of a beautiful bone stock 02 Vert . I am probably going to take you up on your Labor Day Special, but I've got a couple of questions before I order. I want the off-road x-pipe, but what do I do with the O2 sensors? Am I going to throw a code and, if so, how do I get rid of the code? When you remove the AIR tubes do you just clamp them off somewhere?
08-27-2011, 03:50 PM
#7
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Superman - I am the proud new father of a beautiful bone stock 02 Vert . I am probably going to take you up on your Labor Day Special, but I've got a couple of questions before I order. I want the off-road x-pipe, but what do I do with the O2 sensors? Am I going to throw a code and, if so, how do I get rid of the code? When you remove the AIR tubes do you just clamp them off somewhere?
Offroad X-pipe means no catalytic converters, therefore you will throw a code for not having them. Secondly, the rear O2 sensors monitor the cats so running them without cats really isn't necessary. You can run them if you wish, just have the cats tuned out. Alternatively you can also have the rear O2 sensors tuned out. For an offroad system, a tune is greatly advised as you should expect to throw a code. With a catted system, you should not throw a code as you can retain all 4 O2 sensors with them all functioning properly and the 220 cell high flow cats keeping up to your Corvette's needs.
When you remove the AIR tubes, I would suggest simply removing the system from the car. The headers will come with block off plates to block the ports on the headers themselves. Then simply remove all components of the AIR system from your Corvette for a nice, more clean looking engine bay also with less clutter to cut your hands on when wrenching!
To remove the system you will have the following:
AIR pump located under the drivers side headlight. Access this by removing the access panel under the front bumper on the drivers side. A couple bolts and the pump comes out. You will then depending on your year have a rubber tube running from the pump to your air intake tract. You can remove this and plug the area where it entered your air intake.
Finally you will have the two AIR tubes in the engine bay to remove. They connect to each other behind the intake manifold so the intake manifold must be removed to get these tubes completely out of the engine bay.
Any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to answer!
Jon
08-27-2011, 04:56 PM
#8
Instructor
Member Since: Aug 2009
Location: Cleveland TN
Posts: 107
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Header System
Hey man just sent you the $$$ via paypal for a C5 offroad system! System looks great in the pics man and seems like a great deal cant wait to get it. I will give you some feedback as soon as I receive it. I will have it on within a few hrs of getting it! LOL
08-28-2011, 12:54 AM
#9
Instructor
Sounds good, I am glad to assist you with your questions
Offroad X-pipe means no catalytic converters, therefore you will throw a code for not having them. Secondly, the rear O2 sensors monitor the cats so running them without cats really isn't necessary. You can run them if you wish, just have the cats tuned out. Alternatively you can also have the rear O2 sensors tuned out. For an offroad system, a tune is greatly advised as you should expect to throw a code. With a catted system, you should not throw a code as you can retain all 4 O2 sensors with them all functioning properly and the 220 cell high flow cats keeping up to your Corvette's needs.
When you remove the AIR tubes, I would suggest simply removing the system from the car. The headers will come with block off plates to block the ports on the headers themselves. Then simply remove all components of the AIR system from your Corvette for a nice, more clean looking engine bay also with less clutter to cut your hands on when wrenching!
To remove the system you will have the following:
AIR pump located under the drivers side headlight. Access this by removing the access panel under the front bumper on the drivers side. A couple bolts and the pump comes out. You will then depending on your year have a rubber tube running from the pump to your air intake tract. You can remove this and plug the area where it entered your air intake.
Finally you will have the two AIR tubes in the engine bay to remove. They connect to each other behind the intake manifold so the intake manifold must be removed to get these tubes completely out of the engine bay.
Any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to answer!
Jon
Offroad X-pipe means no catalytic converters, therefore you will throw a code for not having them. Secondly, the rear O2 sensors monitor the cats so running them without cats really isn't necessary. You can run them if you wish, just have the cats tuned out. Alternatively you can also have the rear O2 sensors tuned out. For an offroad system, a tune is greatly advised as you should expect to throw a code. With a catted system, you should not throw a code as you can retain all 4 O2 sensors with them all functioning properly and the 220 cell high flow cats keeping up to your Corvette's needs.
When you remove the AIR tubes, I would suggest simply removing the system from the car. The headers will come with block off plates to block the ports on the headers themselves. Then simply remove all components of the AIR system from your Corvette for a nice, more clean looking engine bay also with less clutter to cut your hands on when wrenching!
To remove the system you will have the following:
AIR pump located under the drivers side headlight. Access this by removing the access panel under the front bumper on the drivers side. A couple bolts and the pump comes out. You will then depending on your year have a rubber tube running from the pump to your air intake tract. You can remove this and plug the area where it entered your air intake.
Finally you will have the two AIR tubes in the engine bay to remove. They connect to each other behind the intake manifold so the intake manifold must be removed to get these tubes completely out of the engine bay.
Any other questions feel free to ask and I will be glad to answer!
Jon
08-28-2011, 09:30 AM
#10
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Superman - Thanks very much for answering my questions. A couple of more follow-up questions. With the offroad system, codes will come up. 1)Do you just ignore the codes? 2) Can I do some kind of reset to cancel the codes (even if it's temporary)? 3)When you say "tuned out" are you saying a tuner can basically turn off those particular sensors?
If you take your car in to have a professional tune done, they can turn off the AIR as well as the cats, rear O2's, etc so not having them will no longer toss a code and your car will act just as it does normally
Anything else feel free to ask!
08-28-2011, 12:18 PM
#11
Instructor
No problem, I am here to help! You can ignore the codes if you like. They will come on when you start the car and you can reset them on your DIC if you wish, but you will have to every time you drive your car.
If you take your car in to have a professional tune done, they can turn off the AIR as well as the cats, rear O2's, etc so not having them will no longer toss a code and your car will act just as it does normally
Anything else feel free to ask!
If you take your car in to have a professional tune done, they can turn off the AIR as well as the cats, rear O2's, etc so not having them will no longer toss a code and your car will act just as it does normally
Anything else feel free to ask!
08-28-2011, 12:26 PM
#12
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I would recommend a tune although one is not a complete necessity. With a tune you will get the most power out of the system and your car, best gas mileage, and get rid of any annoying codes that may be tossed. What you are referring to is O2 simulators I believe which work fine. Most people will just put that money towards a tune and have the rear O2's tuned out however
-Jon
08-28-2011, 03:05 PM
#14
Instructor
Tossing a code will not effect the performance, you will just have the DIC annoying you to remind you of the absence of your cats or AIR system I would recommend a tune although one is not a complete necessity. With a tune you will get the most power out of the system and your car, best gas mileage, and get rid of any annoying codes that may be tossed.
What you are referring to is O2 simulators I believe which work fine. Most people will just put that money towards a tune and have the rear O2's tuned out however
-Jon
I would recommend a tune although one is not a complete necessity. With a tune you will get the most power out of the system and your car, best gas mileage, and get rid of any annoying codes that may be tossed. What you are referring to is O2 simulators I believe which work fine. Most people will just put that money towards a tune and have the rear O2's tuned out however
-Jon
08-28-2011, 03:56 PM
#15
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
08-30-2011, 08:54 PM
#19
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
