XSPower C5 Longtube Headers
patiently waiting.
08-19-2014, 04:45 PM
#2005
Pro
OK, I installed the headers on Friday with a help from a friend. This was my first header install ever and his first time under a Vette.
I can not tell you how long exactly it took us for the headers, because we did other stuff on the car and goofed off a little. All I know is, that we were under the car the whole day, but if I had to do it all over again, it would probably take half the time.
We decided to start on the drivers side. For the life of us we could not figure out how in the world would that header ever fit in there. Tried everything possible and even got the shop's owner involved. One guy on top guiding and another one from the bottom pushing. Scratched our heads and sweated for two ours with no success. Then we switched, where I was under the car pushing. At one point my arm got tired and I just propped the header with my elbow. This changed the angle to a position we would never thought of and it just got right in place. Yes, pretty much by accident. So it is all about the angles. Later on my buddy had to go to work, so I was left by myself.
The first time he had put the gasket upside down, so the first header bolt fit and the rest did not. So I loosened them and dropped the header. At first I was mad that I am by myself and how was I going to put that back on. But since I knew how it went in, it was a piece of cake.
Then tightened everything and saw that it is touching the steering shaft. Out it went again and we dent it just a little. Barely visible. Put it back in and it gave enough room to slide a piece of paper in between. Mostly because we did not sent it in the right spot.
Out it came again. We put just a little bit bigger dent that was still almost undetectable by eye. Now it gave me about 1/8" clearance and I was happy. Tried turning the wheel lock to lock and still good.
Then I went to the right side. Removed the starter, disconnected the wires (how anyone has problem putting them back together is a mystery to me) and put the header in the way I learned from the driver one. The entire starter removal, header fitting and starter reconnecting/installing was about 30 min affair.
No issues with any of the sensors, seals, fitment, AC lines (more than 1/2 inch clearance).
Dipstick did not fit. We bent slightly the tube to fit the application and I cut off the original bracket that bolted it to the original collector. Then I drilled a hole in the remaning part of the bracket and attached it to one of the bolts for the EGR block off plates. Worked like a dream.
There are two things that need to be mentioned. The original H-pipe has the flanges that bolt to the axleback exhaust threaded for the bolts. The XS system does not and it does not provide bolts and nuts, which are needed. I personally like it better with separate bolts and nuts and I am by no way complaining. Just keep it mind. In my case I had a store literally next door where I bough four bolts and nuts to complete the job, but I am sure it would have been frustrating if I had to drop everything, clean myself and jump in my other car to go find the bolts I need. So if you are installing this system, be prepared.
The other thing are the clamps. No matter how much I tighten them, the end pipes rotate in the X-pipe receptacles. I understand that SS is some tuff stuff, but maybe then it needs some tuff clamps. Again, not complaining, just saying.
Now….impressions after 3 and a half days of driving.
The primary is seriously rubbing into the steering shaft again. So I guess it expanded from the heat. Now I have to pull the header out again and heat it and bang it some more HOPEFULLY FOR THE LAST TIME!
I installed MSD ignition wires. When I ordered them I was assured that buying "cool sox" to protect them from the heat was a waist of money. This is from vendor specializing in LS motors and Corvettes. The person on the phone told me he is running headers and does not need the extra insulation. WRONG! But not entirely. You pretty much need only one of the wires protected, which is the second from the front on the driver's side. After not that many hours in three days, it put a dent into the wire housing. Not needing replacement, but it was a matter of time. Good thing is NAPA sells protective boots, rated at 1200 degrees in pairs for $10. Buying a full set of eight is going to be a lot closer to $100. Why spend the money if you only need one boot?
When installing the headers I noticed that the big air tube running to the pump in the nose was ripped half way through. So I ripped the hole thing out. Today, Tuesday, just an hour ago it threw a check engine code. It happened right next to an Autozone, so I pulled in and asked them to hook up their OBD. It read Air injection system fault. Air pump defective or hoses blocked This is nobody's fault but mine, but still part of the experience.
Now about the really cool stuff.
I had stock exhaust when I bought the car. It sounded like a minivan. I put Corsa axleback system and it changed it dramatically. It was loud and typical american V8. Sometimes coming home late at night, my wife said I would wake the neighbors.
Now the car is definitely quieter at idle or cruising speeds. This is confirmed by quite few people now. At about 3000 RPM the sound starts to change. Not just the loudness but the tone of it. At 4500 it is not roaring. It is shrieking. Just like a real race car. I had the roof off and the windows down with my kid going through a tunnel. I down shifted it into 3rd on purpose and stepped on it. OMG!!!!!! I exited the tunnel with a hard on. And when we got home my 8year old ran to my wife with "momy, momy, dad's car sounds just like the cars in my video game (need for speed)". After my wife riding in it, I got her approval too. And that means A LOT, considering that she pretty much hates anything to do with cars.
Sorry for the really long post, but let me finish with saying that the system is not 100% perfection. But considering that no system is, what it costs and what it delivers, this is some of the best money spent on my car so far. If anyone is on the fence about getting this, I say go for it!
I can not tell you how long exactly it took us for the headers, because we did other stuff on the car and goofed off a little. All I know is, that we were under the car the whole day, but if I had to do it all over again, it would probably take half the time.
We decided to start on the drivers side. For the life of us we could not figure out how in the world would that header ever fit in there. Tried everything possible and even got the shop's owner involved. One guy on top guiding and another one from the bottom pushing. Scratched our heads and sweated for two ours with no success. Then we switched, where I was under the car pushing. At one point my arm got tired and I just propped the header with my elbow. This changed the angle to a position we would never thought of and it just got right in place. Yes, pretty much by accident. So it is all about the angles. Later on my buddy had to go to work, so I was left by myself.
The first time he had put the gasket upside down, so the first header bolt fit and the rest did not. So I loosened them and dropped the header. At first I was mad that I am by myself and how was I going to put that back on. But since I knew how it went in, it was a piece of cake.
Then tightened everything and saw that it is touching the steering shaft. Out it went again and we dent it just a little. Barely visible. Put it back in and it gave enough room to slide a piece of paper in between. Mostly because we did not sent it in the right spot.
Out it came again. We put just a little bit bigger dent that was still almost undetectable by eye. Now it gave me about 1/8" clearance and I was happy. Tried turning the wheel lock to lock and still good.
Then I went to the right side. Removed the starter, disconnected the wires (how anyone has problem putting them back together is a mystery to me) and put the header in the way I learned from the driver one. The entire starter removal, header fitting and starter reconnecting/installing was about 30 min affair.
No issues with any of the sensors, seals, fitment, AC lines (more than 1/2 inch clearance).
Dipstick did not fit. We bent slightly the tube to fit the application and I cut off the original bracket that bolted it to the original collector. Then I drilled a hole in the remaning part of the bracket and attached it to one of the bolts for the EGR block off plates. Worked like a dream.
There are two things that need to be mentioned. The original H-pipe has the flanges that bolt to the axleback exhaust threaded for the bolts. The XS system does not and it does not provide bolts and nuts, which are needed. I personally like it better with separate bolts and nuts and I am by no way complaining. Just keep it mind. In my case I had a store literally next door where I bough four bolts and nuts to complete the job, but I am sure it would have been frustrating if I had to drop everything, clean myself and jump in my other car to go find the bolts I need. So if you are installing this system, be prepared.
The other thing are the clamps. No matter how much I tighten them, the end pipes rotate in the X-pipe receptacles. I understand that SS is some tuff stuff, but maybe then it needs some tuff clamps. Again, not complaining, just saying.
Now….impressions after 3 and a half days of driving.
The primary is seriously rubbing into the steering shaft again. So I guess it expanded from the heat. Now I have to pull the header out again and heat it and bang it some more HOPEFULLY FOR THE LAST TIME!
I installed MSD ignition wires. When I ordered them I was assured that buying "cool sox" to protect them from the heat was a waist of money. This is from vendor specializing in LS motors and Corvettes. The person on the phone told me he is running headers and does not need the extra insulation. WRONG! But not entirely. You pretty much need only one of the wires protected, which is the second from the front on the driver's side. After not that many hours in three days, it put a dent into the wire housing. Not needing replacement, but it was a matter of time. Good thing is NAPA sells protective boots, rated at 1200 degrees in pairs for $10. Buying a full set of eight is going to be a lot closer to $100. Why spend the money if you only need one boot?
When installing the headers I noticed that the big air tube running to the pump in the nose was ripped half way through. So I ripped the hole thing out. Today, Tuesday, just an hour ago it threw a check engine code. It happened right next to an Autozone, so I pulled in and asked them to hook up their OBD. It read Air injection system fault. Air pump defective or hoses blocked This is nobody's fault but mine, but still part of the experience.
Now about the really cool stuff.
I had stock exhaust when I bought the car. It sounded like a minivan. I put Corsa axleback system and it changed it dramatically. It was loud and typical american V8. Sometimes coming home late at night, my wife said I would wake the neighbors.
Now the car is definitely quieter at idle or cruising speeds. This is confirmed by quite few people now. At about 3000 RPM the sound starts to change. Not just the loudness but the tone of it. At 4500 it is not roaring. It is shrieking. Just like a real race car. I had the roof off and the windows down with my kid going through a tunnel. I down shifted it into 3rd on purpose and stepped on it. OMG!!!!!! I exited the tunnel with a hard on. And when we got home my 8year old ran to my wife with "momy, momy, dad's car sounds just like the cars in my video game (need for speed)". After my wife riding in it, I got her approval too. And that means A LOT, considering that she pretty much hates anything to do with cars.
Sorry for the really long post, but let me finish with saying that the system is not 100% perfection. But considering that no system is, what it costs and what it delivers, this is some of the best money spent on my car so far. If anyone is on the fence about getting this, I say go for it!
Last edited by mrm13; 08-19-2014 at 04:58 PM.
08-20-2014, 01:39 AM
#2006
Racer
^^^^^^^^^^^^
I ended up buying my heat socks from Amazon.com they were $40 for all 8, flat plus free shipping. I also got the normal U-exhaust brackets instead of the clamps that came with it.
Also love the sound!
I ended up buying my heat socks from Amazon.com they were $40 for all 8, flat plus free shipping. I also got the normal U-exhaust brackets instead of the clamps that came with it.
Also love the sound!
08-20-2014, 03:46 AM
#2007
Pro
Yeah. I am going to switch to the U-clamps too. I was also thinking to fabricate a little flat bracket for where the rear pipes are attached to the springs. I am pretty sure that those hangers are welded to the pipes on a jig. So my idea is to get a little flat bracket with two holes on it that will be installed between the bolts and the hangers on the pipes. This way it will keep the distance between them constant, will eliminate independent movement between the two pipes and it will also prevent any rotation once tighten up. All this should also make proper alignment of your exhaust tips a breeze. It should be really easy, fast and inexpensive to make.
08-20-2014, 11:49 AM
#2008
Drifting
Member Since: Jan 2012
Location: Hopatcong New Jersey
Posts: 1,341
Likes: 0
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I installed mine over the weekend. Was also doing a heads/cam/converter/diff swap at the same time....I was able to slide the passenger side in from the top while the heads were off so I didn't have to touch the starter. Driver side went in pretty easily, fitted it, took it out and beat the crap out of it, put it back in, took it back out and beat the crap out of it again....Definitely NOT "massaging," it's a pretty significant amount of denting that needs to be done. And after all that, the steering shaft STILL touches, BARELY, I think I can live with it for now.
The gaskets are a complete joke, as are the clamps. Even with GM MLS gasket there is no way my header was going to seal without leaks, a straight edge confirmed that the flange was warped....So I used the remflex gaskets and that worked. The flange at the midpipe-axle pipe, I was hoping that a GM graphite gasket would seal it, but that flange is warped too.
The cheap U-clamps from autozone are 10000% better, and acually tighten and prevent the pipes from twisting, causing the exhaust tips to misaligne.
Overall, for the money I can't really complain too much, you get what you pay for....But if I could do it over again, I would have spent the extra money on a set of LG headers.
Tips:
Don't even bother with the gaskets or clamps that come with the kit. Don't waste you money on GM gaskets until you put a straight edge to the flanges.
Put a MUCH MUCH bigger dent in the primary than you think you're going to need.
Buy koolsox for the spark plug wires.
Get everything lined up, but still somewhat loose, and tighten down the header to heads first (I tried tightening everything evenly a little at a time, but when I would tighten the header to x-pipe it would pull the headers away from the heads at an angle.)
Spend the extra money on exhaust manifold studs, I wish I had.
The gaskets are a complete joke, as are the clamps. Even with GM MLS gasket there is no way my header was going to seal without leaks, a straight edge confirmed that the flange was warped....So I used the remflex gaskets and that worked. The flange at the midpipe-axle pipe, I was hoping that a GM graphite gasket would seal it, but that flange is warped too.
The cheap U-clamps from autozone are 10000% better, and acually tighten and prevent the pipes from twisting, causing the exhaust tips to misaligne.
Overall, for the money I can't really complain too much, you get what you pay for....But if I could do it over again, I would have spent the extra money on a set of LG headers.
Tips:
Don't even bother with the gaskets or clamps that come with the kit. Don't waste you money on GM gaskets until you put a straight edge to the flanges.
Put a MUCH MUCH bigger dent in the primary than you think you're going to need.
Buy koolsox for the spark plug wires.
Get everything lined up, but still somewhat loose, and tighten down the header to heads first (I tried tightening everything evenly a little at a time, but when I would tighten the header to x-pipe it would pull the headers away from the heads at an angle.)
Spend the extra money on exhaust manifold studs, I wish I had.
08-20-2014, 01:45 PM
#2010
Instructor
Member Since: Mar 2007
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 233
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Received 0 Likes
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I love my set, decided against the straight pipes for now. I'm really liking the sound of these, it does sound a bit foreign, almost like a ferrari! Really happy with my purchase!
08-20-2014, 10:30 PM
#2014
Burning Brakes
08-29-2014, 11:12 AM
#2017
Drifting
The price of xspower vs any other American brand is not even close.
FYI, I had Kooks and I still had to hack up my car to get them to fit properly.
Only pay that top dollar if you must have the lifetime warranty.
