Potential False Knock... Looking for advise
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Potential False Knock... Looking for advise
Posted below on ls1tech... seem to be more active in tuning section.
Hoping to get some advice… I’m new to LS1 tuning. I’m getting excessive KR at WOT and aggr part throttle... no codes.
I’m in damn hot AZ.
Below are some histograms.
1st 91oct on stock tune…
2nd 91oct with revised IAT correction
3rd E47 stock timing w/ 12:1 Stoich
01 c5 m6 engine (with 95k mi) is completely stock except K&N filter system and oil cooler.
Seems much of this has to be false knock; can't image e47 knocking with stock timing. If so, what actions would you advise?
-tempted to turn them off… best way is set max knock retard to 0? Or zero out gain?
-could replacing them solve it?
With the e47 I did drive for a bit, so I think it has mixed sufficiently... trims seem ok, not pulling a bunch. Plugs look good.
Hoping to get some advice… I’m new to LS1 tuning. I’m getting excessive KR at WOT and aggr part throttle... no codes.
I’m in damn hot AZ.
Below are some histograms.
1st 91oct on stock tune…
2nd 91oct with revised IAT correction
3rd E47 stock timing w/ 12:1 Stoich
01 c5 m6 engine (with 95k mi) is completely stock except K&N filter system and oil cooler.
Seems much of this has to be false knock; can't image e47 knocking with stock timing. If so, what actions would you advise?
-tempted to turn them off… best way is set max knock retard to 0? Or zero out gain?
-could replacing them solve it?
With the e47 I did drive for a bit, so I think it has mixed sufficiently... trims seem ok, not pulling a bunch. Plugs look good.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You can see in the scan snapshots it occurs well into a single gear pull. And o2s are pretty steady.
I’d be surprised if burst knock was included in the KR channel.
Knock sensors are very simple converting vibration into a voltage and PCM reacts based on a very narrow voltage I believe. This voltage may not be matching true knock hz as they got out of wack somehow.
I also seem to have some LTFT swing between each bank, by a few %... although haven’t checked this thoroughly yet. This could point to a lean cylinder and causing the knock… but I think this is unlikely and plugs all looked very similar. Is a few % between banks common? Temping me to pull the cats to rule them out on the bank diff, but wasn't planning this until I install headers down the road.
I’d be surprised if burst knock was included in the KR channel.
Knock sensors are very simple converting vibration into a voltage and PCM reacts based on a very narrow voltage I believe. This voltage may not be matching true knock hz as they got out of wack somehow.
I also seem to have some LTFT swing between each bank, by a few %... although haven’t checked this thoroughly yet. This could point to a lean cylinder and causing the knock… but I think this is unlikely and plugs all looked very similar. Is a few % between banks common? Temping me to pull the cats to rule them out on the bank diff, but wasn't planning this until I install headers down the road.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ok after looking through logs and HPT I have an action plan.
Just about all the knock happens >50kpa MAP and this is the point when global gain is reduced... I will start by increasing the gain (reducing sensitivity).
Just about all the knock happens >50kpa MAP and this is the point when global gain is reduced... I will start by increasing the gain (reducing sensitivity).
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I also zeroed burst knock, but I don't think this is a cause. This was noticeable during shifts.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Aug 2005
Location: CA.
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St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15
I have had the best results by not messing will any of the KR tables other than the
"Cylinder Mode" in your knock software---the frequency--filter and sensitivity tables are a complex hole by hole calibration- But the Clyn mode in the software section is adjustable by RPM vs KPA so much easier to make accurate adjustments exactly where you are getting the false KN Not huge changes adding to the numbers desensitize the sensors Typically at WOT the number is like 1.0 --try small adjustments like a 1.02 see in the KR gets less---If you begin to HEAR pinging you went to far then back off some
"Cylinder Mode" in your knock software---the frequency--filter and sensitivity tables are a complex hole by hole calibration- But the Clyn mode in the software section is adjustable by RPM vs KPA so much easier to make accurate adjustments exactly where you are getting the false KN Not huge changes adding to the numbers desensitize the sensors Typically at WOT the number is like 1.0 --try small adjustments like a 1.02 see in the KR gets less---If you begin to HEAR pinging you went to far then back off some