LC-2/DB Gauge Issues
#1
LC-2/DB Gauge Issues
I have recently installed the above wideband AFR combo and have not had any luck with it. It seems to always be at 7.8 it will jump to 10.5 every so often. When the power is on but the engine is off what should it read? Mine does not budge from 7.8. But I believe it should read 22+
I have tried every setting in the logworks program and nothing changes it. Even flipped voltage and did not change. (ie 0-5v and 5-0v) I connected everything by the book instructions and my grounds are going to the factory ground block.
I have tried to get ahold of Innovate but have had no luck.
If anyone knows anything or has any suggestions your help is appreciated.
Thanks
Robert
I have tried every setting in the logworks program and nothing changes it. Even flipped voltage and did not change. (ie 0-5v and 5-0v) I connected everything by the book instructions and my grounds are going to the factory ground block.
I have tried to get ahold of Innovate but have had no luck.
If anyone knows anything or has any suggestions your help is appreciated.
Thanks
Robert
#3
Drifting
I installed an LC-2 last night with zero issues.
Those DB gauges use one of analog outputs right?
First I would verify if the AFR issue is for the whole LC-2 or just for that analog output. If you run Logworks and set up a gauge to display AFR on the laptop, what does it say/does it match the DB gauge?
Mine read 20.x when I first calibrated it in the air.
Those DB gauges use one of analog outputs right?
First I would verify if the AFR issue is for the whole LC-2 or just for that analog output. If you run Logworks and set up a gauge to display AFR on the laptop, what does it say/does it match the DB gauge?
Mine read 20.x when I first calibrated it in the air.
#4
Drifting
Did you calibrate the sensor per the instructions? Disconnect the sensor, power up the LC-2...wait for at least 30 seconds (you can also look @ the LC-2 to verify correct LED blink scenario), then power off the unit. Then reconnect sensor, ensure sensor is in free air..... power on... then it takes 30-60 seconds for it to heat up, calibrate and be ready to go.
Last edited by aaronc7; 10-22-2014 at 12:09 PM.
#7
So I just retried calibration and checked the laptop read out. And it points to the gauge being no good. I might try playing around with the wires but doubt anything will come of it....
#8
Drifting
Check the analog output wire with a voltmeter... To eliminate if it's a lc2 problem or gauge problem.
#9
Drifting
Any luck? I just wired my analog output to the EGR pin on the PCM. Seems to be reading voltage just fine.
#11
Dude you are the bomb digity. I checked both out puts and it was good on one but not the other. The one I didnt have connected to the gauge was good. Well... I connected the thing as though it was an LC-1. I went brown instead of yellow. All is good now.
I appreciate your help man.
I appreciate your help man.
#12
Also what is the purpose for hooking up to the egr?
I guess I missed that portion of having a wideband. Only reason I got it was for my tuner. If there is another advantage maybe I should dig deeper.
I guess I missed that portion of having a wideband. Only reason I got it was for my tuner. If there is another advantage maybe I should dig deeper.
Last edited by tuckin22; 10-23-2014 at 09:33 PM.
#13
Drifting
What tuning software do you use and do you have any way to data log yourself? The main advantage or purpose of doing the EGR method is so that you can data log your AFR alongside all other important parameters that you care about. It doesn't really add any value, it just makes tuning easier and more convenient. I will post up more details when I get home.
#14
Drifting
For example you can take a datalog with the logworks software or live view the AFR... this is useful sure, but you can't overlay that with RPM, timing, etc etc. With the analog output wired into the EGR pin, anytime I datalog with my EFILive Autocal.... I get a wideband parameter that's logged too. I created a custom PID so it converts voltage to appropriate AFR. Here's an example... 2nd row, Green is commanded AFR, light blue is actual AFR (LC-2 wideband):
Hope that makes sense. If you or your tuner thinks this would be helpful, let me know and I can show you how to do this.
Hope that makes sense. If you or your tuner thinks this would be helpful, let me know and I can show you how to do this.
#15
Ahh that is cool. Yeah he had used the actual sensor to read the AFR when tuning. He had it hooked separately. Basically bypassing the LC-2. So not sure how it ran with the log he runs or in a separate log. He used hp tuners though. If you have some info on this that would be great. Did you pin it at the OBD 2 location? Or back at the ECU? Or even at the EGR itself? Mine is a '98 so not sure if that makes a difference. And as far as the tuning end goes I am completely oblivious so I would just pass the info on.
He is still working on it because I completely redid everything so there have been quite a few irregularities, it might help him nail down some of them. Only thing that blows is it will be a while as I blew out my rear end. So car wont move now. So his tuning will be on hold. I am just trying to get as much as I can fixed and ready to go.
He is still working on it because I completely redid everything so there have been quite a few irregularities, it might help him nail down some of them. Only thing that blows is it will be a while as I blew out my rear end. So car wont move now. So his tuning will be on hold. I am just trying to get as much as I can fixed and ready to go.
#16
Drifting
Pretty simple install overall
PCM is located behind the passenger front wheel.
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_c5_pcm_removal.pdf
I ran one of the analog outputs down there. You will need some pcm connectors/terminals for a clean install. I got a 25 pack on ebay for $10, I can mail you a few if you want them....now I have 24 of them with nothing to do, ha. I crimped/soldered that onto the wire end.
Once you're there you need to remove the blue pcm connector...for me this was the one further away from me. Getting the grey plastic clip off was a pain but I made it work with some pliers. Then on the opposite side you have to remove this blue plastic clip...now all the terminals etc will be exposed.
Then you just have to run your new wire into Pin 55 and put it all back together.
I forget the exact PID name, but it was something like EGRS (S for solenoid) and it will now display the voltage from the LC-2. If you're really picky like me you'll notice that there is a very slight difference/voltage offset between what the laptop/serial comms reads vs analog. The amount of error will depend on where you grounded the LC-2.
The good thing though is you can fix it either way. They way I approached this was to go into LM programmer and change the analog output behavior temporarily. I would set 0v=10AFR, 0v=20AFR... basically you are forcing it to output 0v ALL the time. Then I would look at my handheld logger and see what it was actually seeing. In my case it was like 0.003v. I repeated this process for 1v, 2v, 3v, 4v and 5v and plotted the line in excel and got a linear equation. It was something like y=1.994x + 9.94.
So then I went into EFIlive software and defined a custom unit conversion from Voltage to AFR
So now I can view AFR directly in the logs.
PCM is located behind the passenger front wheel.
http://www.aacorvette.com/pdf/aa_c5_pcm_removal.pdf
I ran one of the analog outputs down there. You will need some pcm connectors/terminals for a clean install. I got a 25 pack on ebay for $10, I can mail you a few if you want them....now I have 24 of them with nothing to do, ha. I crimped/soldered that onto the wire end.
Once you're there you need to remove the blue pcm connector...for me this was the one further away from me. Getting the grey plastic clip off was a pain but I made it work with some pliers. Then on the opposite side you have to remove this blue plastic clip...now all the terminals etc will be exposed.
Then you just have to run your new wire into Pin 55 and put it all back together.
I forget the exact PID name, but it was something like EGRS (S for solenoid) and it will now display the voltage from the LC-2. If you're really picky like me you'll notice that there is a very slight difference/voltage offset between what the laptop/serial comms reads vs analog. The amount of error will depend on where you grounded the LC-2.
The good thing though is you can fix it either way. They way I approached this was to go into LM programmer and change the analog output behavior temporarily. I would set 0v=10AFR, 0v=20AFR... basically you are forcing it to output 0v ALL the time. Then I would look at my handheld logger and see what it was actually seeing. In my case it was like 0.003v. I repeated this process for 1v, 2v, 3v, 4v and 5v and plotted the line in excel and got a linear equation. It was something like y=1.994x + 9.94.
So then I went into EFIlive software and defined a custom unit conversion from Voltage to AFR
So now I can view AFR directly in the logs.
#17
Excellent info!!! I will be doing this. It is better to have all the info in the log side by side. Sure if you dont mind sending afew of them over that would be great.
#18
Burning Brakes
Great post Araon. I was thinking to do this also, but instead of new wire move the rear O2 1v wire to pin 55. This way you can just plug into rear O2 harness. I think all you need is 3 wires:12v, ground, and 1 0-5v analog right?
#19
Drifting
What's the purpose of moving the rear O2 wire to pin 55? If you took the O2 signal wire and cut it, and instead routed the LC-2 analog wire to it to be fed into the ECU....yes that should work also. The idea is to just get that analog signal into the ECU one way or another, then you can manipulate it to make it read out in normal AFR format.
I just didn't really want to start cutting up stuff (although I guess my rear O2s really serve no purpose).
I just didn't really want to start cutting up stuff (although I guess my rear O2s really serve no purpose).