xdmikey

My c5, stock except for longtubes and vararam, can't be tuned any better?

I stopped by the shop to check on it and asked a few questions and the guy who tuned/tried to tune said it was dead on(from the factory?)and couldn't be improved on.

Any ideas on this? I mean aside from get it out and leave it stock or sell it and fix up my truck?

And these guys want me to have them supercharge it? Pass.

jhopper408

It must have already been tuned. And I think that I would take it somewhere else!

Hanlon's Law

Did you buy it already modded? As jhopper said, it may have already been tuned. I assume you were getting a dyno tune done, how much did it make?

xdmikey

That's my thought.

I don't know what's going on but I canceled the things they didn't complete yet: oil catch can. Well, that's all.

I did talk with them about working on my truck but I think I'll pass on that one for now.

Thanks for the replies.

xdmikey

Yes, it came modded.

xdmikey

I was reading "should I retune my ecu" zfor about the fourth time and it hit me-I have nothing to gain from a tune since I'm an m6.
I remember back when I had my first truck; it was a five speed and everyone told me I didn't need a "chip" since all a chip did was change the shift points. I paid the big bucks and bouht a hypertext, which was about $100 more than anything else available and had to be special ordered but it was a getter, as long as you had 93 octane.

Hanlon's Law

I was only trapping 110mph in the 1/4 after installing my vararam and long tubes, 114mph after tune. The stock tune is extremely conservative on timing (mine was as low as 19* at tq peak), and my car was running very lean before adjustments (+15% fuel long term fuel trims).

M6 cars absolutely stand to gain from a tune, especially after mods, but even stock they pick up ~15-20whp mostly from timing.

oh1vette

When I went from stock to headers and vararam I picked up 40rwhp and 31tq for an idea, I baselined a little low at 291rwhp, but those are the gains I saw from a tune with headers and vararam only.....

2001 MN6 - maybe had around 40-50k mi at the time....

xdmikey

I wasn't charged for the tune.
But I canceled other things I was going to have done, too.

Question: now my key fob doesn't work; could it have been from disconnecting the the battery, or anything else that would be relative to a clutch install?

I usually have the Tpms warnings going off constantly; maybe there isn't enough stored driving memory? I drove straight home from the shop(eight miles), tried to remote lock it but no luck. Replaced the battery, no luck.

Going back to the shop today to see if they can get it working.

xdmikey

My baby's back home.

Not without drama though. The key fob died so I got to go buy one at the stealer, got it programmed at the stealer(but got a deal cause I know people there).

Now I just have to knock out the easy does it first 500 miles then I can begin to play.

And I was able to put all three "nice cars" in the garage!
/\ High Point of my day/week /\

tblu92

What issues are you having with your car that makes you think it needs to be retuned ?
lack of HP
surging--idle hunting--dying etc ??
This would help you determine if something needs to be done
Just to be sure---You car is a manual trans ?
PS: most tuners runs your car on a dyno and ONLY check for max HP at WOT--No drivability issues are addressed unless they also do a "street driven tune"
depending on the issues you are having will tell us a lot

Also the TPMS warnings are very common for any car over 5-7 years old-- the batteries on the sensors go dead--You can live with the codes or replace all the sensors do a dismount and mount of your tires all for about $500 to me NOT worth the effort-
Any time you dis connect the battery the key fob needs to be --re-set--you can do this yourself--It is shown in the owner's manual-- If it won't reset--chances are it's just to old
either again live with it or spend another $500 to fix it---to me--leave it be--

DOUG @ ECS

Just playing devils advocate here, but possibly the car was tuned correctly and they were being honest and fair with you?

Tuffguy610

^^ What Doug said ^^

I took my car to get a tune when I put an LS6 intake, P&P TB and LG Longtubes on it. I was expecting to see big gains afterwards, and in the end only saw 7 hp! Wanna know why? It was tuned before I purchased it. The only thing that was off was the air/fuel ratio in the upper RPMS, and this was due to the long tubes. It makes sense because my Vette pulled like a raped ape compared to my similarly modded 99 Z28 Camaro at the time. Anyways, I'm not sure when/where it got tuned prior and the tuner also mentioned a neutral rev limiter programmed into the old tune at 3k....hmmm. At least I've had the car for 3 years and haven't found anything fishy with it. Maybe the same happened to you??

Joshboody

Tuning a NA car is basically mapping the airflow (stable AFR) and timing. Subtle mods won't change airflow by much and the ECU compensates over time. AFR varying by 10% won't change HP significantly, but timing will. If timing is optimized already, once airflow increases the timing maybe on the high side (depending on octane) so you're tuning more for reliability, consistency then HP.

xdmikey

The surging at idle has subsided somewhat and the stumbling on takeoff has some what as well.

My funds are down now so I don't have to worry about what to do next cause I can't do anything right now!