K-Spaz

I'm in the process of finishing up the install of a new motor and tran to my car. Swapped a stock LS1 for one with some mods, swapped the auto trans for a M6, and 3:15 rear for a 3:42.

Began with stock LS1, A4 Auto and 3:15s, stock exhaust, pretty much a factory car. Car is a 98.

Now has a cammed 99 LS1, M6 and 3:42s, Long tubes, catted x pipe and Ti axleback. Will add a wideband shortly. Motor is mildly cammed, made 395/386 whp before I bought it.

Probably early next week sometime I'll be ready to power the car back up and would like to know what I should expect when I first turn the key.

Should I obtain a stock tune for an M6 car and go from there? Can I just change my current tune and tell it the auto is gone, EGR is gone, and whatever else?

Using HP Tuners Pro, and I know basically nothing about it. Any help is appreciated.

RonSSNova

Hey Phil,

I'd just start from your current stock tune and see if it runs.
Since the auto trans isn't there now, I'd expect check engine light for sure.

If you were to write entire an M6 tune, your VIN wouldn't match which would lead to issues I think.

Since I haven't been hands on with such a swap, I am not sure if you can simply tell the car it doesn't have the auto anymore.

Ron

K-Spaz

Thanks Ron,

I just today got enough parts that if I was really ambitious I could probalby get it started today (late tonight). I have some miscellaneous stuff I want to do first but I think I'm pretty close.

Here's a question for ya. EGR delete. I've got the air pump still in the car, wiring in place, etc. Obviously, with the LTs now, I don't have that stuff in the engine bay. What do I tell HPTuners to do the "Egr delete"?

RonSSNova

The AIR system.
There are dtc's you can simply turn off.
Same as rear O2 etc.
There will also be auto trans stuff to turn off as well.

K-Spaz

I've got the car basically together. Made a tune with a number of things modified and DTCs disabled. Mostly copy/paste from a stock M6 tune just so I didn't have to pay for another license (in spite of having 10 credits now).

Right now I'm stumped on the wiring for the clutch switch so the anti-theft relay will allow the motor to crank. My service manual has no diagrams for the manual transmission so I'm handcuffed trying to 'compare' auto vs manual wiring. Searching the web has been pretty fruitless, and though I've had a couple guys help via pm, I do not have any idea what wires I need to run where. I also don't have the connectors for the clutch switches but do have them on the way. So at some point I'll actually have the proper plugs for those.

There have been a few other setbacks on the car which require some repairs. I want to get that crap out of the way too but that's a slow process.

Had to actually do real earning-money style work today so I didn't have time to even look at the car. Should be able to start on it now but not sure how long I can stay tonight and mess with it.

Getting reduced engine power now (pre-start) and might go back to the original tune and change less stuff at once.

RonSSNova

Phil,
I believe the clutch switch connection is the same as the TCC (tq converter clutch) line.

Ron

K-Spaz

I'll take another look at that Ron, thanks. I keep getting sidetracked on customer crap here at work and it's slowing things down a bit.

K-Spaz

Ok, at long last, I got a new PCM and Tac module for the car and have that installed. I'm trying to read up on tuning-101 posts around the web and figure out what the car needs to get it roadworthy. Engine is running, idles half decent, drives 'o...k...'. Clearly there are things that need addressed in the tune. Got a code P0101 today and the engine cut out while attempting to get on the highway. Had to get it started and limp it back to the shop. Not fun. Didn't have books with me to tell what that code was so that had me wondering till I saw it's just the tune is way off.

I'd appreciate any help on where to begin with this.