I think my new clutch is glazed... is it ruined, or can I "fix" it?
#1
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I think my new clutch is glazed... is it ruined, or can I "fix" it?
Apparently the pressure plate in my new LUK wasn't adjusted correctly and it's not providing full clamping force. Well some said it'd slip a bit then be fine... but it's not. I let it break in for 500 miles then I took it to VIR. Yesterday I was playing w/ supra buddies making a video and the clutch just wasn't holding my measly 371 rwhp.
I need to pull my headers and re-adjust the PP to see if it will make it provide full clamping force, but I'm worried the clutch is ruined. IF I drive it a certain way can I break the glaze?
I need to pull my headers and re-adjust the PP to see if it will make it provide full clamping force, but I'm worried the clutch is ruined. IF I drive it a certain way can I break the glaze?
#2
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It does not sound like your clutch is glazed. What model/year is your car?
If you have a pre 2001 car, your slave cylinder could very well be crapping out on you. Mine did and my SPEC III was doing the same thing.
When a clutch is glazed, a few hard launches should take care or any glazed over surfaces.
I am not endorsing going out and ragging on your car while it is having problems, but posting up more info on your car would help.
Also, I would re-adjust your PP and see if that doesnt fix the problem.
I have heard of many SPEC clutches with ceramic disc getting glazed over and people deglazing them with some track time.
If you have a pre 2001 car, your slave cylinder could very well be crapping out on you. Mine did and my SPEC III was doing the same thing.
When a clutch is glazed, a few hard launches should take care or any glazed over surfaces.
I am not endorsing going out and ragging on your car while it is having problems, but posting up more info on your car would help.
Also, I would re-adjust your PP and see if that doesnt fix the problem.
I have heard of many SPEC clutches with ceramic disc getting glazed over and people deglazing them with some track time.
#3
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I replaced the slave w/ a brand new one I'll adjust the PP and see if that makes it all work. Funny thing is that I had absolutely zero problems w/ the stock '01 clutch w/ 40,xxx miles. The cluth had about 10 1/4 mile passes, lots of auto-x, and four HPDE's. Oh well... glad to know it can be "unglazed" if necessary.
#4
Melting Slicks
I'm about to drop in a LUK clutch into a client's 01 ZO6. This car will see lots of drag race duty, so I will be performing the mod to the PP in order to increase clamping force as described by Tom at Carolina Clutch (turning the PP spacer ring CCW so the fingers are towards the vent louvers).
Robert / Gen 3 MS
Robert / Gen 3 MS
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Is this considered a "mod"? This is how they should come... I mean the stock clutch held fine, and now the new one won't hold crap. Glad to hear Tom is telling people to check/perform this mod... I had a few choice words.
#6
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Is this considered a "mod"? This is how they should come... I mean the stock clutch held fine, and now the new one won't hold crap. Glad to hear Tom is telling people to check/perform this mod... I had a few choice words.
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... but here's the thing. My stock '01 clutch for my Z06 never had any slippage problems. Now this new upgraded clutch w/ supposedly 17% more clamp force can't hold and slips. So even in "normal"/"standard" form it shouldn't slip at all for my application. Mine works worse than before.
#8
Melting Slicks
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
... but here's the thing. My stock '01 clutch for my Z06 never had any slippage problems. Now this new upgraded clutch w/ supposedly 17% more clamp force can't hold and slips. So even in "normal"/"standard" form it shouldn't slip at all for my application. Mine works worse than before.
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Do these new clutches use shims like a RAM setup? We have had to shim and re-shim many RAMS to get them dialed in. And every car is different as far as shims go. usually they are close, but i know it sounds a bit crazy, usually the amount of shims differ from car to car.
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LUK is the OEM manufacturer and this Stage II is visually no different than stock. It just has a better disc and a pressure plate w/ more clamp load.
I think the "adjustment" is supposed to be made from the factory, but some happen to come w/o being turned all the way. I have spoke w/ many tuners and they say that once in a blue moon they get one that slips like mine, and it's the adjustment. Most a/m shops now do the adjustment to all of them if necessary.
I think units with the ring not fully adjusted are mis-adjusted.
I think the "adjustment" is supposed to be made from the factory, but some happen to come w/o being turned all the way. I have spoke w/ many tuners and they say that once in a blue moon they get one that slips like mine, and it's the adjustment. Most a/m shops now do the adjustment to all of them if necessary.
I think units with the ring not fully adjusted are mis-adjusted.
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Originally Posted by rwj383
I'm about to drop in a LUK clutch into a client's 01 ZO6. This car will see lots of drag race duty, so I will be performing the mod to the PP in order to increase clamping force as described by Tom at Carolina Clutch (turning the PP spacer ring CCW so the fingers are towards the vent louvers).
Robert / Gen 3 MS
Robert / Gen 3 MS
#12
Safety Car
BLACKTOP2000 put a LUK in last spring. We didn't do the adjustment, because we weren't told we had to. The darn thing slipped and he only had 340rwhp and 350rwtq. We called LUK and Tom told us about the adjustment. We did it and it holds just fine now, even after a h/c upgrade to around 440rwhp and 405rwtq.
J-Rod, I think if you call Tom @ Carolina Clutch he can give you the details.
Originally Posted by J-Rod
Any link to this adjustment?
Last edited by ArKay99; 02-08-2005 at 12:15 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by J-Rod
Any link to this adjustment?
3. Remove the inspection cover.
4. Have an assistant press the clutch pedal until tension is released from the clutch pressure plate stepped adjusting ring, then continue to hold the pedal.
5. Hold 2 screwdrivers or other suitable tools, and place them against 2 of the 3 stepped adjusting ring tension spring stops (1), just ahead of the adjusting ring tension springs.
6. Using the screwdrivers, rotate the stepped adjusting ring counterclockwise (compressing the tension springs) until the adjusting ring steps are fully adjusted out, then continue to hold in position.
7. Have your assistant release the clutch pedal.
8. Release the adjusting ring tension spring stops.
9. Install inspection cover.
#15
Le Mans Master
Here's a link to a pic on the LUK site. Not sure if this is our exact clutch but it looks similar. The adjusting 'tabs' are the yellow parts with the brown springs.
Here's info on what LUK is trying to accomplish with these adjusters.
http://www.luk.de/content/en/product...lv/SAC1_lv.jsp
http://www.luk.de/content/en/product...lv/SAC2_lv.jsp
Here's info on what LUK is trying to accomplish with these adjusters.
http://www.luk.de/content/en/product...lv/SAC1_lv.jsp
http://www.luk.de/content/en/product...lv/SAC2_lv.jsp
#16
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St. Jude Donor '08
I have a copy of the procedure at home. It is in a Adobe file. E-mail me and I will send it to you. i got it from another forum member! bill327@msn.com
I glazed the clutch in my 98 a few times. I just drove it normally for a sew days and it was fine. It is still giong strong at 65K!!! Stock LS1 clutches do not liks 4000 RPM hole shots!!
There is a pressure plate pivot point adjustment that is suppose to increase the clamping force.
If you dont hear back from me, shoot me a PM
Bill C
I glazed the clutch in my 98 a few times. I just drove it normally for a sew days and it was fine. It is still giong strong at 65K!!! Stock LS1 clutches do not liks 4000 RPM hole shots!!
There is a pressure plate pivot point adjustment that is suppose to increase the clamping force.
If you dont hear back from me, shoot me a PM
Bill C