doug rippie brake bias spring?
02-11-2005, 06:46 PM
#2
Team Owner
works great on cars that don't have auto bias like 2000 and up does or 99. Check with DRM. Takes some dive out when you brake and may some a bit faster.
02-11-2005, 08:38 PM
#4
Instructor
Just ordered mine today. I was told by Mark at VNM that this was a very worthwhile upgrade for my '99.
The guys at DRM confirmed that. I understand that it will result in less nose dive on heavy breaking and because the rear brakes are utilized more, I can expect more even wear on the front & rear pads and rotors.
And let's face it - you can't beat the price ($12.95)!
Looks like it's only available for the '97 - '00 C5.
You can check it out here:
http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_...eBias%20Spring
The guys at DRM confirmed that. I understand that it will result in less nose dive on heavy breaking and because the rear brakes are utilized more, I can expect more even wear on the front & rear pads and rotors.
And let's face it - you can't beat the price ($12.95)!
Looks like it's only available for the '97 - '00 C5.
You can check it out here:
http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_...eBias%20Spring
02-11-2005, 09:00 PM
#5
Team Owner
I have it on my 99... right from the start you will notice that under hard braking the rear stays low... you feel as though you have much more control of the car too. 
VR
VR
02-11-2005, 11:19 PM
#7
Safety Car
Originally Posted by John Shiels
works great on cars that don't have auto bias like 2000 and up does or 99. Check with DRM. Takes some dive out when you brake and may some a bit faster.
2001 and up have auto bias. That's why the bleed sequence went to diaganol from rear to front.
02-14-2005, 08:20 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
The instructions come with the spring. Basically, you empty the master cylinder, then take of the proportioning block below the master cylinder. Take the cap off, and replace the spring. If you take it off slow enough, you can see how it all fits together. If not, you can figure it out pretty easy.
Put it all back together, fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes as usual.
Put it all back together, fill the master cylinder and bleed the brakes as usual.
02-14-2005, 09:13 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
I'll relate my experience that led me to put the DRM spring in:
I was running at the local PCA time trials, and one corner was up on the rev limiter in 3rd gear (about 108 mph) into a hairpin down around 30, which necessitated a downshift into 2nd.
This particular time when I downshifted I didn't heel/toe and got a good bite when I let out the clutch (just lucky, no sliding or wheel hop). I literally felt the rear squat down, and got a great brake going into the corner.
So, I installed one. I didn't worry about draining the master, but just disconnected the four lines from the distribution block (use good line wrenches and a large crescent wrench to help hold the block) and tied small baggies around their ends.
Then you can fairly easily R&R the brake bias spring.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
I was running at the local PCA time trials, and one corner was up on the rev limiter in 3rd gear (about 108 mph) into a hairpin down around 30, which necessitated a downshift into 2nd.
This particular time when I downshifted I didn't heel/toe and got a good bite when I let out the clutch (just lucky, no sliding or wheel hop). I literally felt the rear squat down, and got a great brake going into the corner.
So, I installed one. I didn't worry about draining the master, but just disconnected the four lines from the distribution block (use good line wrenches and a large crescent wrench to help hold the block) and tied small baggies around their ends.
Then you can fairly easily R&R the brake bias spring.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
