Need help passing emmissions "car not ready to test"
10-13-2005, 11:53 PM
#1
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Need help passing emmissions "car not ready to test"
I made an earlier post a month or so ago... I have my car registered in NC and have to have it emissions tested annually in Greensboro, NC. Well this past trip to my parents house the car could not get tested. It did not fail, but hte OBD II computer said the catalyst and on other system were "not ready to test".
They told me to go romp on it some and I did that but still wasn't a go.
I do randomly get 0420 (someting like that) codes for my hi-flo cats but I just clear that and keep going. Car has Kooks headers w/ hi-flo cats, all four o2 sensors, and a stock cam.
I haven't been driving the car as much (about once a week) as opposed to 3-5 days a week now that the weather's been worse (rainy) and I have a beater truck.
I also changed my battery out in May so I'm not sure if the car has had enough clear key cycles w/o codes.
So my real question... is it the codes stuck in history making the car "not ready to test" or the way I'm driving it?
I was told I need to start the car cold then drive it steady state at 55 for 15 minutes so it goes through all the tests then it'll be good to go.
Any input is appreciated
They told me to go romp on it some and I did that but still wasn't a go.
I do randomly get 0420 (someting like that) codes for my hi-flo cats but I just clear that and keep going. Car has Kooks headers w/ hi-flo cats, all four o2 sensors, and a stock cam.
I haven't been driving the car as much (about once a week) as opposed to 3-5 days a week now that the weather's been worse (rainy) and I have a beater truck.
I also changed my battery out in May so I'm not sure if the car has had enough clear key cycles w/o codes.
So my real question... is it the codes stuck in history making the car "not ready to test" or the way I'm driving it?
I was told I need to start the car cold then drive it steady state at 55 for 15 minutes so it goes through all the tests then it'll be good to go.
Any input is appreciated
10-14-2005, 12:37 AM
#2
Your shooting yourself n the foot since its built into the EPA PCM that any time you clear error codes you also force all the internal smog tests to revert back to incomplete state and the drive cycles to start all over again.
EPA did that on purpose so if someone going in for a I/M smog test that had error codes would pull a fast one and simply erase them Some tests like the CATS can take up to 40 cold/hot drives.
Doing the GM testrun as you mentioned will speed some of the tests up but not all of them
The errors your getting are because the exhaust parts your using do not comply with the smog tests so to really solve this if keeping the mods is to have someone who tunes the PCM to turn the codes off but allow it to still do the tests and go into a Complete state.
For the new EPA smog rules you'll see with the C6 that you not only cannot see errors on the DIC but also cannot delete them with DIC.
EPA did that on purpose so if someone going in for a I/M smog test that had error codes would pull a fast one and simply erase them Some tests like the CATS can take up to 40 cold/hot drives.
Doing the GM testrun as you mentioned will speed some of the tests up but not all of them
The errors your getting are because the exhaust parts your using do not comply with the smog tests so to really solve this if keeping the mods is to have someone who tunes the PCM to turn the codes off but allow it to still do the tests and go into a Complete state.
For the new EPA smog rules you'll see with the C6 that you not only cannot see errors on the DIC but also cannot delete them with DIC.
10-14-2005, 01:42 AM
#4
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
Gotcha... so I need to get a bit lucky and have it cycle through, but not through a check enginle code. This'll be fun.
I've been through hell and back with "not ready" codes.
One for evaporative and the other for the cats.
I have an '04 and have had my tuner rework my deal until he's blue in the face and no luck.
I finally got lucky and slipped through after many tries, but my car is STILL reading "not ready" on the OBD.
Wish I had a better answer for you, but as of now I'm not sure what to do when Feb. rolls around for the next round of fun.
Scott
10-14-2005, 11:08 AM
#6
The Evap will almost never be ready. That is why most states will allow one "not ready" and will still pass the test. The evap will reset and have to learn every time you put gas in.
The second problem can be eliminated through programming. While Scott's car had problems due to being a 2004, you will have no problems with your 2001. Just have any tuner program out the cats and the test. Then you will go right through.
The second problem can be eliminated through programming. While Scott's car had problems due to being a 2004, you will have no problems with your 2001. Just have any tuner program out the cats and the test. Then you will go right through.
10-14-2005, 11:09 AM
#7
Le Mans Master
I've become somewhat of a self proclaimed "guru" on this issue recently, and not by choice! 
After removing my AIR system (successfully; test passes as complete, no DTC's) I've been waiting patiently for my Evap test to run (and it should pass, never touched that system at all).
It still hasn't run.. So I started investigating (via the factory manuals and ODBII info on the government web sties) and found out a few things..
The Evap test criteria to even begin to run are very specific..
Engine Coolant Temp must be within 39* ~ 86*
Intake Air Temp must be within 39* ~ 86*
Start-up IAT and ECT must be within 16* of each other (this implies the test would only run during a completely cold-start
Throttle position less than 70%
Fuel level between 12.5% and 87.5%
Battery voltage between 10 and 18v
An additional bit of information I discovered is that the vehicle should be moving for the test to execute as well.. This (I believe) is what is "killing" my Evap test from running.. I always let the car warm up before driving.. By the time I put it in gear, I'm already outside the temp params for the test to execute.
So the solution there is to do a cold start, then immediately put it in first and let it idle down the road for a bit. I plan on doing the "GM drive cycle routine", just to satisfy my curiosity and see the test complete.
Now here is some light at the end of your particular tunnel..
From 1996 to 2000, the EPA will allow 2 "not readys" and still pass. So if this was my car, I'd have still passed; one "not ready" for the Evap system, one "not ready" for the cats.. The EPA specifically made these allowances for system like the Evap, which can be "flaky" or difficult to get the tests to run to completion.
But alas, on 2001 and up (until ODBIII hits. I wonder if the 06's have ODBIII?) allow just one "not ready", which is why you keep failing.
There is a "work around", only supported by a few states, that says "o.k., I failed the ODBII diag portion of the test, but give me the tail pipe sniffer version, and if I pass that, then I'm good to go". You could check into that option.. It's called "last chance" or similar.
If it were me, I'd fix the cat issue(s) regardless (go with 02 sims if you must), then that would leave you with a single system "not ready" (Evap - and likely there is nothing wrong with it anyway, esp. if you aren't getting a DTC for that system), and BAM! you pass smog..
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
After removing my AIR system (successfully; test passes as complete, no DTC's) I've been waiting patiently for my Evap test to run (and it should pass, never touched that system at all).
It still hasn't run.. So I started investigating (via the factory manuals and ODBII info on the government web sties) and found out a few things..
The Evap test criteria to even begin to run are very specific..
Engine Coolant Temp must be within 39* ~ 86*
Intake Air Temp must be within 39* ~ 86*
Start-up IAT and ECT must be within 16* of each other (this implies the test would only run during a completely cold-start
Throttle position less than 70%
Fuel level between 12.5% and 87.5%
Battery voltage between 10 and 18v
An additional bit of information I discovered is that the vehicle should be moving for the test to execute as well.. This (I believe) is what is "killing" my Evap test from running.. I always let the car warm up before driving.. By the time I put it in gear, I'm already outside the temp params for the test to execute.
So the solution there is to do a cold start, then immediately put it in first and let it idle down the road for a bit. I plan on doing the "GM drive cycle routine", just to satisfy my curiosity and see the test complete.
Now here is some light at the end of your particular tunnel..
From 1996 to 2000, the EPA will allow 2 "not readys" and still pass. So if this was my car, I'd have still passed; one "not ready" for the Evap system, one "not ready" for the cats.. The EPA specifically made these allowances for system like the Evap, which can be "flaky" or difficult to get the tests to run to completion.
But alas, on 2001 and up (until ODBIII hits. I wonder if the 06's have ODBIII?) allow just one "not ready", which is why you keep failing.
There is a "work around", only supported by a few states, that says "o.k., I failed the ODBII diag portion of the test, but give me the tail pipe sniffer version, and if I pass that, then I'm good to go". You could check into that option.. It's called "last chance" or similar.
If it were me, I'd fix the cat issue(s) regardless (go with 02 sims if you must), then that would leave you with a single system "not ready" (Evap - and likely there is nothing wrong with it anyway, esp. if you aren't getting a DTC for that system), and BAM! you pass smog..
Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
10-14-2005, 12:31 PM
#8
It would not make any difference if only one test is in a non complete state if the error light is on it is a automatic fail so he has to make sure when he goes in that no smog errors have tripped.
If he knows someone with a Tech-II or has a PCM scanner that does bi-directional they could force the evap test and maybe get it to trip into a complete state.
By the left side of intake is a EVAP hose with a valve (looks like a tire valve) on it, by using low pressure about 5 PSI have the evap system purged which may solve EVAP test never completing.
If he knows someone with a Tech-II or has a PCM scanner that does bi-directional they could force the evap test and maybe get it to trip into a complete state.
By the left side of intake is a EVAP hose with a valve (looks like a tire valve) on it, by using low pressure about 5 PSI have the evap system purged which may solve EVAP test never completing.
10-14-2005, 12:38 PM
#9
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I have a compressor of my own... have a pic of the evap valve? I might try that. So basically I can get the car tuned to where it will never bother with the cats anymore. I don't have any custom tuning, only factory.
Well now that I know more about it hopefully I can beat this!
Well now that I know more about it hopefully I can beat this!
10-14-2005, 01:53 PM
#10
Le Mans Master
Welcome to the "new & improved" world of OBDII testing. As a used car dealer, this issue is a nightmare. A pre-1996 car can be puking black smoke and still be made to pass inspection while the 1996-later cars with a check engine light caused by as little as a loose fuel cap is an automatic fail. Certain cars can take 30+ days to be "ready" to test once the codes are cleared.....A real nightmare!!!!
10-14-2005, 04:32 PM
#12
Le Mans Master
Originally Posted by jawsski
Slam that thang till it's so low it won't roll into the test bay.......I got a 2 year extension for it. 
Thats what I'm talking about!
USA - home of wonderful Freedom and the strangest loopholes anyone's ever heard of.
Scott
10-14-2005, 04:51 PM
#13
You cannot miss the valve, look above the coil for cylinder 7, the valve has a lime green cap on a flex hose and a label saying to use low pressure.
If EVAP is plugged up from oil and such the low air pressure would allow moving air from the engine back to the evap tank in rear of car.
Closer to the throttlebody on that hose you will see the EVAP solenoid make sure the wiring connector is clean and plugged in and you also can check to see its not plugged up
Yes with tuning all the error codes including CAT, O2, EVAP, AIR, etc can be prevented from tripping, preventing error light coming on and still have the internal smog tests in PCM to show those functions passed the tests
If EVAP is plugged up from oil and such the low air pressure would allow moving air from the engine back to the evap tank in rear of car.
Closer to the throttlebody on that hose you will see the EVAP solenoid make sure the wiring connector is clean and plugged in and you also can check to see its not plugged up
Yes with tuning all the error codes including CAT, O2, EVAP, AIR, etc can be prevented from tripping, preventing error light coming on and still have the internal smog tests in PCM to show those functions passed the tests
Originally Posted by Cobra4B
I have a compressor of my own... have a pic of the evap valve? I might try that. So basically I can get the car tuned to where it will never bother with the cats anymore. I don't have any custom tuning, only factory.
Well now that I know more about it hopefully I can beat this!
Well now that I know more about it hopefully I can beat this!
10-14-2005, 05:29 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
This is what has prevented me from installing long tube headers with high flow cats. I am in MA, which now has ODB II. My vette is a 01. As I am reading this thread, I can go to a tuner and have him tune out the rears an I should be all set? Don't they check for this? Do rear sims work all the time? I have sean some threads that say NO. I don't want this hassle, and I am sure Cobra4B would like a difinitive answer how to get around the cat issue.
10-14-2005, 05:57 PM
#15
Any visual smog test would also fail long tube headers.
Most areas that do EPA IM testing via the PCM connected to a scanner do not also look at what parts are installed for if the PCM says the rear O2s pass they do not then look to see if they really are installed.
Yes simms once installed fool the PCM all the time but you could just have a tuner turn off the codes have no O2s or simms and if tuned correctly still will report the O2 and their heaters pass the tests without them even being installed.
Before I installed a supercharger and lived in Ca the car did not have CATs and rear O2s and my tuner tuned it by looking at what the makeup of exhaust was ( had car pretested and got the results) and the car passed CA smog tests and that was with IM 240 where they also put car on a threadmill
Its all who is doing the tune and what they know.
Most areas that do EPA IM testing via the PCM connected to a scanner do not also look at what parts are installed for if the PCM says the rear O2s pass they do not then look to see if they really are installed.
Yes simms once installed fool the PCM all the time but you could just have a tuner turn off the codes have no O2s or simms and if tuned correctly still will report the O2 and their heaters pass the tests without them even being installed.
Before I installed a supercharger and lived in Ca the car did not have CATs and rear O2s and my tuner tuned it by looking at what the makeup of exhaust was ( had car pretested and got the results) and the car passed CA smog tests and that was with IM 240 where they also put car on a threadmill
Its all who is doing the tune and what they know.
10-19-2005, 11:27 PM
#17
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Well I've been driving the car a bit different and haven't gotten my "normal" check engine lights from the cats any more. Knock on wood 
Normally I baby the car until oil temp gets to 140 but now I drive it harder while still keeping the car under 3k rpms and no wot... gets the cats up to temp quicker so maybe they're passing the tests now.
Hopefully I can swing to NC one weekend and get my sticker.
Normally I baby the car until oil temp gets to 140 but now I drive it harder while still keeping the car under 3k rpms and no wot... gets the cats up to temp quicker so maybe they're passing the tests now.
Hopefully I can swing to NC one weekend and get my sticker.
