bparker

I am getting a bit worried as it just wont go away..

I am also getting (now and then) P 332 C - it for some reason doesnt store as I only see it in "C" = Current mode and never in "H" = History mode..

Broken Spring? Bent Rod? Bad Spark Plug?

Anyone in Dallas (Plano) got an Auto Tap they can help me out with?

Thanks,

BP

Theblkraven

According to the DIC codes listing :

P0325 Knock Sensor (KS) System -B

P0327 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Front -B

P0332 Knock Sensor (KS) Circuit Rear -B

Probably resulting from the last mod(s) you did. I have seen other members with these codes. Cant remember what they refer to, but someone here will know :confused:

bparker

Thx for the post :D - I was aware of the "definition" but havent a clue about the "cause" - thus I am trying to see if anyone else has had these codes and if they are linked to a "common" problem ..

Also - my last mod was a PowerLoader..

Thx,

BP

c4c5specialist

Hi there,
From your sig, I think it may be due to a crushed wiring harness when your intake was installed. If the vent tube was not changed, or the intake was mispositioned, your harness could have been rubbed through, causing this code.
I would proceed with this inspection first, best to you, c4c5

bparker

Humm - well check everything as suggested. However, the LS6 intake has been on for about 6K miles with no codes - thus I guess you mention "rubbing through". :D

Also - here are more symptoms.. this is when I get the codes consistently..

Cold engine @ startup (temps below 178) and within the first mile of driving it very easily during warm up down a few blocks from the house on the way to work... The DIC shows "H" & "C" all the way to work. Once I get to the office I clear the codes. Then when I go to lunch (the engine is still warm) I dont throw the codes usually. If I dont take a luch, and the engine cools, I wil get the codes (P0327 & sometimes P0332) again on the way home during warm up..

Is this a parallel symptom with what you have suggested?

The other things that I have noticed that are different - my engine temp is always above 200 now (round 205-210). I have a 160 Degree TStat and it was ALWAYS below 200 (Round 178-185) in traffic.. My thoughts were that the extra temp was comming from the Power Loader II timing advancement.. ???...??? Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks for everyone's help!

BP

Flintstone

FWIW, what are the ambient outside air temps when you are throwing codes?

For me, above 95 degrees, I get knock at WOT since loading the Powerloader II. I've been told it's the reformulated gas in Dallas.

Filled up in OKC with 91 octane this weekend, and added a can of octane boost. Anything over 1/2 throttle on the way home caused detonation problems (temp was 103 degrees).

F

bparker

Temps have been from 86+

2 Slow

I just installed the B1 and got the same two codes, turned out that I pinched the wires going to the knock sensors and the pcm could not find them. Fixed the wires and codes went away, timing went back to normal and runs very strong now.

P.S. Did you have to drill a hole in the throttle body and if so what size?

bparker

Cool - thats what c4c5 said, btw where the heck are the wires as I didnt instal lthe cam - I paid a shop to do it ..

Can you point me in the right direction please?.?.?

Also, yes when I first installed the B1 Cam, I had to drill a hole cant remember the size (but I can find out if you need, let me know) cause the car would stall @ every red light!. In addition, I borrowed a TB from the shop that did the install and we drilled that one. I left mine alone and orderd a PowerLoader II and requested that the idle be set to 950 (apporx. per MTI) and it turned out to be too high.. so my PL II is back with Steve Cole being re-programmed to his specs ...

Third, I just put on a ported TB from WestCoast (Forum Vendor) and it now idles even higher! LOL - thus I think stock idle settings with the ported TB will be my sweet spot for me..

Take care and thanks for your reply,

BP




[Modified by bparker, 8:08 PM 8/22/2001]