A fix for knocking/clunking from rear wheels.
08-22-2001, 04:35 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
A fix for knocking/clunking from rear wheels.
I recently developed a sharp knock or clunk in the drivers rear wheel. I feared that the CV joint was going sour, and I dread that. But with only 15K miles, I had doubts that it was the problem.
This noise would happen when gently engaging the clutch in first, or when backing off the gas in first gear, or putting it in reverse and engage the clutch. Riding around in a parking garage was perfect for hearing knock...knock....knock....knock.
The other day I noticed a Forum thread on this problem. Several responded that it sounded like sway bars links or other suspension points that might have loosened up. But it didn't sound like this to me. Fortunately, C5 Tech saw that thread and mentioned that it might be a dry axle spline in the hub assembly making this noise. That was the case for my car.
So, thanks to C5-Tech, I fixed (or temporarily fixed) the problem.
This is what to do:
Do not jack car or remove rear wheel. Apply park brake and put in 1st gear. Hopefully your brake works. If not, you'll might need a helper to apply brakes.
Remove lug nut covers and center cap. Lug covers are 3/4 inch, BTW.
You will see a large threaded shaft (the axle) and a large nut. This nut is torqued to 118 ft-lbs, according to the service manual.
You will need a 1 5/16 deep socket and a fairly large breaker bar. I was using 3/4 drive equipment, so the rachet was plenty large to begin with. You may have a hard time finding this large of a socket in 1/2 inch drive, but I would think Sears or an auto parts store might have them for single sales. And, it does have to be deep, because the end of the axle (the threaded portion) sticks out about an inch past the nut.
Put some oil on the threads (mine were quite rusty), have your helper hold the brake, and break the nut loose and remove. It's not really very tight...only a little bit more than wheel lug torque. But the initial "break loose" does require some leveragae. Be careful not to gouge the side of your car with the breaker bar!!
Do not worry about removing this nut. The wheel will NOT come flying off and you will not damage anything.
You will probably see some dusty rust in the cavity after you remove the nut. Blow the dust out if you can, but it's not a big deal.
Using the red wand on your WD-40, stick the wand in to the spline area and give it some squirts in a few places. Excess will run out so have a grease rag handy. Give it a few minutes and do it again to try to inject as much lube in as you can. Rock the car in gear (brake off, dummy!) to work the lube into the splines.....it has to creep in, so spray and rock, spray and rock. That's where the noise is coming from, so work it in.
Put a little bit of engine oil in there if you have a squirter, just for good measure. Don't go wild....just a little. I used 3-in-1. Not the thickest oil in the world, but more lube-y than WD.
Your clunk/knock should be gone when you do the rocking in gear test. Mine knocked like crazy when I rocked it (before this fix, that is).
Put some oil on the threads, and run the nut in. It doesn't spin on....you'll have to wrench it on after the first few threads engage.
Have helper apply brake, and tighten to 118 ft-lbs or, in my case, with no 3/4 inch torqe wrench, to goodendamntight specifications.
Finish up with the center cap and lug covers and you're done.
No more clunk!
I'm gonna do the other side now, just for preventive maintenance.
I was thinking that a good quality antisieze spray might be better, but getting it worked into the spline might be difficult. I didn't have any, so I went with the WD to experiment. The WD probably won't last forever, which is why I think a little shot of heavier oil, after the penetrating spray, might keep things quiet longer. But WD soaks in real good, and that's a start!
Total time--15 minutes, assuming you have that big, deep socket laying around.
This noise would happen when gently engaging the clutch in first, or when backing off the gas in first gear, or putting it in reverse and engage the clutch. Riding around in a parking garage was perfect for hearing knock...knock....knock....knock.
The other day I noticed a Forum thread on this problem. Several responded that it sounded like sway bars links or other suspension points that might have loosened up. But it didn't sound like this to me. Fortunately, C5 Tech saw that thread and mentioned that it might be a dry axle spline in the hub assembly making this noise. That was the case for my car.
So, thanks to C5-Tech, I fixed (or temporarily fixed) the problem.
This is what to do:
Do not jack car or remove rear wheel. Apply park brake and put in 1st gear. Hopefully your brake works. If not, you'll might need a helper to apply brakes.
Remove lug nut covers and center cap. Lug covers are 3/4 inch, BTW.
You will see a large threaded shaft (the axle) and a large nut. This nut is torqued to 118 ft-lbs, according to the service manual.
You will need a 1 5/16 deep socket and a fairly large breaker bar. I was using 3/4 drive equipment, so the rachet was plenty large to begin with. You may have a hard time finding this large of a socket in 1/2 inch drive, but I would think Sears or an auto parts store might have them for single sales. And, it does have to be deep, because the end of the axle (the threaded portion) sticks out about an inch past the nut.
Put some oil on the threads (mine were quite rusty), have your helper hold the brake, and break the nut loose and remove. It's not really very tight...only a little bit more than wheel lug torque. But the initial "break loose" does require some leveragae. Be careful not to gouge the side of your car with the breaker bar!!
Do not worry about removing this nut. The wheel will NOT come flying off and you will not damage anything.
You will probably see some dusty rust in the cavity after you remove the nut. Blow the dust out if you can, but it's not a big deal.
Using the red wand on your WD-40, stick the wand in to the spline area and give it some squirts in a few places. Excess will run out so have a grease rag handy. Give it a few minutes and do it again to try to inject as much lube in as you can. Rock the car in gear (brake off, dummy!) to work the lube into the splines.....it has to creep in, so spray and rock, spray and rock. That's where the noise is coming from, so work it in.
Put a little bit of engine oil in there if you have a squirter, just for good measure. Don't go wild....just a little. I used 3-in-1. Not the thickest oil in the world, but more lube-y than WD.
Your clunk/knock should be gone when you do the rocking in gear test. Mine knocked like crazy when I rocked it (before this fix, that is).
Put some oil on the threads, and run the nut in. It doesn't spin on....you'll have to wrench it on after the first few threads engage.
Have helper apply brake, and tighten to 118 ft-lbs or, in my case, with no 3/4 inch torqe wrench, to goodendamntight specifications.
Finish up with the center cap and lug covers and you're done.
No more clunk!
I'm gonna do the other side now, just for preventive maintenance.
I was thinking that a good quality antisieze spray might be better, but getting it worked into the spline might be difficult. I didn't have any, so I went with the WD to experiment. The WD probably won't last forever, which is why I think a little shot of heavier oil, after the penetrating spray, might keep things quiet longer. But WD soaks in real good, and that's a start!
Total time--15 minutes, assuming you have that big, deep socket laying around.
08-22-2001, 06:02 PM
#2
Drifting
Member Since: Jun 2000
Location: Fontana CA
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Re: A fix for knocking/clunking from rear wheels. (tracy)
I would think that if the splines are loose enough to clunk then they must be a bit worn and should possibly be replaced. I would consult your dealer, if you have a good one, and get the hub and/or axle replaced while they are still under warranty. You have to be careful not to put a Band-Aid on a stab wound. It would be :mad if I put oil on something and the oil covered up the problem until the warranty ran out.
just my $.02
just my $.02
08-22-2001, 06:15 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Re: A fix for knocking/clunking from rear wheels. (SoCal C5)
The splines are not actually "loose". What we have here is a mechanical joint with some inherent motion that should have a little antisieze goop on the splines. It's not a taper fit, so there has to be some miniscule amount of clearance between the spline and the hub. Since it was bone dry, it allowed the joint to "work" just a microscopic amount, and creak like a door hinge creaks. And those can be loud, but the door's not falling off. The sudden creak of the splines under a slight load sounds like a knock when it's magnified and telegraphed by the wheel hub.
I agree that WD-40 is probably not the best route. Taking the whole thing apart and wiping the splines with moly-disulfide is "probably" the best fix, but I ain't doing that.
On the other hand, I'm positive that if you didn't mind the knock there would be no reason to "fix" this problem. That unlubed spline is good for about 350K miles, give or take a few trips to the grocery store.
I agree that WD-40 is probably not the best route. Taking the whole thing apart and wiping the splines with moly-disulfide is "probably" the best fix, but I ain't doing that.
On the other hand, I'm positive that if you didn't mind the knock there would be no reason to "fix" this problem. That unlubed spline is good for about 350K miles, give or take a few trips to the grocery store.
08-22-2001, 06:56 PM
#4
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Re: A fix for knocking/clunking from rear wheels. (tracy)
Tracy:
Thanks for taking the time to provide us with the details on how to eliminate the "clunking" problem. Thanks also to C5-tech for the recommended course of action.
I'm not sure if this is the same problem that I've recently started to experience, but I think I'll give your fix a try. The sound I'm hearing is a dull clunk that seems to be coming from either under my seat or the rear of the car. Also, it doesn't happen all the time (i.e. if I go out for a 20 mile drive, I'll hear the clunking sound only for the first mile, and only as I take off in 1st gear :confused: ).
Anyway, the fix you've described doesn't take much time and doesn't cost anything, so why not give it a try :yesnod: .
Thanks again for passing it along!
Thanks for taking the time to provide us with the details on how to eliminate the "clunking" problem. Thanks also to C5-tech for the recommended course of action.
I'm not sure if this is the same problem that I've recently started to experience, but I think I'll give your fix a try. The sound I'm hearing is a dull clunk that seems to be coming from either under my seat or the rear of the car. Also, it doesn't happen all the time (i.e. if I go out for a 20 mile drive, I'll hear the clunking sound only for the first mile, and only as I take off in 1st gear :confused: ).
Anyway, the fix you've described doesn't take much time and doesn't cost anything, so why not give it a try :yesnod: .
Thanks again for passing it along!
08-09-2004, 09:07 PM
#6
Safety Car
I've used this fix before with great results....but now I have a drivers side click/clunk that won't go away. 
Time to bust out the torque wrench and see what else could be causing the noise. Already tried re-lubing the splines and re-torquing the sway bar mounting bracket bolts but that hasn't helped. I may try pulling the brake hub off and applying some high temp grease to see if that will help.
Time to bust out the torque wrench and see what else could be causing the noise. Already tried re-lubing the splines and re-torquing the sway bar mounting bracket bolts but that hasn't helped. I may try pulling the brake hub off and applying some high temp grease to see if that will help.
