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Old 06-09-2006, 09:37 PM   #1
Slalom4me
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Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Edmonton AB
Default LSx Water Pump Heater Hose Fittings - Possible to Tap for NPT?

Is there sufficient meat in the water pump boss where
the tubes for the heater hoses are to remove the tubes
and tap for pipe thread?

Alternatively, do any versions of the pump have tube
fittings that point up and forward instead of to the
passenger outboard side?

Thanks,
Ken R.

Click the image to open in full size.

Photo credit - CHarris85Vette

.
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Old 06-09-2006, 11:25 PM   #2
kpforce1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Is there sufficient meat in the water pump boss where
the tubes for the heater hoses are to remove the tubes
and tap for pipe thread?

Alternatively, do any versions of the pump have tube
fittings that point up and forward instead of to the
passenger outboard side?

Thanks,
Ken R.

Click the image to open in full size.

Photo credit - CHarris85Vette

.
someone is doing an LS1 swap... in a C4 maybe? I'd like to know this as well for my swap
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Old 06-10-2006, 01:31 AM   #3
Slalom4me
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpforce1
someone is doing an LS1 swap... in a C4 maybe? I'd like to know
this as well for my swap
Yes, I was thinking of CHarris85Vette and you while I was working on
another plumbing project. I got some ideas, came back and started
looking at his pictures of the WP.

While he has solved the immediate matter of creating a hook-up, I
know we all would like to revisit this when time permits.

In the image here, the upper part of the boss simply looks too thin
to take a thread. The bottom looks so, so. I've had three or four
ideas about how to tackle the matter. Wouldn't it be nice if GM
has already rearranged the fittings for another application like, say,
the CTS-V. Failing that, some swapping, fabrication or even machine
work could solve the issue.

I've got a question for you on an item related to the same adventure.
Watch for your new thread in C4 Tech - coming soon.

.
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Old 06-10-2006, 10:14 AM   #4
Slalom4me
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Comments anyone?

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Old 06-14-2006, 01:51 PM   #5
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bump
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Old 06-15-2006, 09:56 PM   #6
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Does anyone have a crap pump that "we" could experiment with?
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:41 PM   #7
SteveDotenMotorsports
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ck out Katech for the different tstat housings, this should get the hose pointed in the right direction

the pumps aren't cheap, next time I get a spent pump I ck out the how much casting is there
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Old 06-15-2006, 11:58 PM   #8
tiojames
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Default water pump

How about heliarcing the piece in. I did it with a Summit radiator I adapted to my Trans-am. You can buy an aluninum bung with the female pipe size threads you need and have it heliarced at any welding shop. It cost me $15 to have the bung welded into the radiator which is thinner than the waterpump housing.
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Old 06-16-2006, 02:57 PM   #9
Slalom4me
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Location: Edmonton AB
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Another image of the present situation

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

connecticut. Thank you for the tip about Katech's straight
neck thermostat housing. I think this would provide the
bottom hose with less interference at the frame horn.

tiojames. Welding aluminum bungs would work. I think they
perhaps have a larger OD than the width of the WP casting
at the top tube, but it would be a simple matter to fill in
with weld around the back side.

Click the image to open in full size.

BTW - Your suggestion led me to think about whether Earl's
90º fittings with tube sections could be welded in place.
Either modify something like this or build (bend & flare)
from scratch and then weld into place.

Click the image to open in full size.

Wait a minute. Instead of bungs or tubing, why not just weld
aluminum AN fittings to the pump?? If someone took a 45º
cut off the heater hose boss so the fittings could angle upward,
so much the better. Earl's offers 'Male Weld Fittings - AN Thread'
from -4 to -24.

Another idea (that I've just discarded) was to use rectangular
bar stock to make a block that bolts onto the heater hose boss.
The block would create a 90º change in direction with inlets on
one face that intersect with tapped outlets on an adjoining face.
It would bolt to the water pump (after removing the OEM tubes)
with a gasket or o-rings for sealing.

Welding bungs or tubes with fittings are all probably simpler
approaches.

Thanks again for the help !!
Ken R.

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; 06-16-2006 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:03 PM   #10
Randy@DRM
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Pull out the steel tubes and drill-tapped to the next size up NPT. We just did one on our WC car. It worked prefect.

Randy
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:13 PM   #11
Slalom4me
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Location: Edmonton AB
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy@DRM
Pull out the steel tubes and drill-tapped to the next size up NPT.
We just did one on our WC car. It worked perfect.
Even better !

Thanks, Randy.

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Old 06-17-2006, 11:00 PM   #12
Cory@LS2PortWorks
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Those are some good ideas guys!

I've got another waterpump back in the storage room that I'll eventually get around to modding in some way

The thermostat housing really isn't a problem in the C4... it JUST clears everything with room to shake. but that straight fitting is very nice looking!

Last edited by Cory@LS2PortWorks; 06-17-2006 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 06-17-2006, 11:00 PM
 
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