This may or may not have been posted recently.
I just finished up with the job and thought I would post my experience with changing the plastic gear in the headlight motor.
Yesterday while showing off the car to some company, after lowering the headlights I noted a strange noise. I turned the headlights back on and once they came up to a full stop the noise quit. I lowered them and once fully down the noise continued. I popped the hood and found the right side headlight motor was running continiously. I turned the headlights on again and once they opened up, I moved the switch to the parking light position and disconnected the battery.
After some debate and a couple of phone calls, I found the part at "Corvette Country" in Fayetteville. All he had was the plastic gear, but it was better than nothing and I did not want to wait a week to get the brass gear.
The replacement should be good for the '97 to 2000 models. I think in 2001 the motors were "sealed".
I tackled the job this morning and it was pretty easy. It took me about 1.5 hours start to finish.
Tools I used -
10 mm sockets for each ratchet.
10 mm combo wrench.
1/4" drive, 1/4" socket.
5/16" "dogbone" wrench for the battery connection.
With the headlights up and the battery disconnected I removed the plastic bezel from around the right headlight. This is held on by three phillips screws.
I removed the "Lid" for the right headlight by removing the four (4) #15 Torx screws. There are two in the back, one on the right side and one on the left side. Notice these have slotted holes. This is how you can adjust the lid so it is flush with the hood, fender and front bumper.
Notice the position of the headlight actuation arm and which direction the elbow bends. Taking note of which way the elbow bends when closing the headlight with the manual **** will save some headaches a little later.
The headlight actuation arm is held on by one 10mm nut.
The headlight motor is held on at three attach points, two of which are 10mm bolts and the last one (upper aft) is a 10mm bolt that runs through the unit and frame and secured with a 10mm nut.
In the picture you should notice the ratchet on the right (inboard) side of the motor, and a 10mm wrench on the left (outboard) side of the motor. The combo wrench is holding the nut.
NOTE: Once the actuation arm is free from the drive shaft, the headlight assy is free to move to the retracted position.
Once the three attach points and the actuation arm hardware has been removed, the motor can be worked free. There is still a harness connected. I opted not to disconnect the harness.
The gear cover is held on by three 1/4" bolts. Once you remove these bolts make sure you remove the gasket as it will be replaced. As you remove the cover, note on the drive shaft there is a washer, then a plastic spacer. Remove these and keep in a safe place. BEFORE you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, make a reference mark on the drive shaft and the housing. This is important so as to relocate the drive shaft in the same position. The opposite end of the drive shaft where it connects to the actuation arm can be connected two ways.
Once you remove the drive shaft and plastic gear, note there is a plastic spacer and a washer on the other side of the plastic gear.
Here is the plastic gear, drive shaft, plastic spacer and washer.
Pull the drive shaft from the plastic gear and replace the gear. The gear has "slots" and the drive shaft has "ears" which will engage easily. I applied a light coat of plastic grease to the gear teeth.
Here at about the six o'clock position you can see the damage to the gear itself and the teeth which caused the motor to run continiously.
Reverse the removal / disconnect procedures and use the reference marks on the drive shaft and the housing made earlier to reassemble everything.