Originally Posted by LoneStarFRC

Still waiting for the final verdict after some thrashing Chuck. My hopes are running high.

Originally Posted by chuckster

Have not put it back on yet.... I had to take it off when I had my new Cartek clutch put in.. I am still breaking it in.. GOt another 250 miles or so before the thrashing begins..

But I now have to replace the freakin CV boot on the passenger side.. Blew open and made a mess!

Originally Posted by chuckster

Have not put it back on yet.... I had to take it off when I had my new Cartek clutch put in.. I am still breaking it in.. GOt another 250 miles or so before the thrashing begins..

But I now have to replace the freakin CV boot on the passenger side.. Blew open and made a mess!

Originally Posted by vettenuts

When you originally installed this fix, were you still running the stock clutch at that time? I am going to check my pedal travel when I get the car out again. Need to make mental note of this item.

Originally Posted by gpracer1

I have an idea. What if you were to mount a small shock absorber to the pedal....like on a R/C car. Using heavy shock oil, you could shift fast and not over extend. You would mount it so that the shock hits the stop right after the clutch is disengaged. Then keep pressing to compress the shock. Then when you want to start the car you just have to hit the shock portion of travel and slowly depress the shock travel till you make the switch. Its like a hard buffer at the end of the clutch pedal travel.

Originally Posted by chuckster

Have not put it back on yet.... I had to take it off when I had my new Cartek clutch put in.. I am still breaking it in.. GOt another 250 miles or so before the thrashing begins..

But I now have to replace the freakin CV boot on the passenger side.. Blew open and made a mess!

Originally Posted by tstar

That’s pretty inventive! The only issue that comes to mind is the return rate of the pedal and disengagement of the clutch being too slow. It might make doing burnouts a tad tricky!

Originally Posted by tstar

How are you starting the car, you cut off the tab that contacts the starter interrupt switch right?

Originally Posted by chuckster

Yep, I had the original clutch when I installed it.. Funny.. I have since moved my seat back a bit and learned not to bottom out the clutch..

Seems like I can rest my heel on the floor and simply pivot my foot to release the clutch.. I am at full release without ever picking up my foot.. I have been shifing this way during the clutch breakin and like it..

I may not even put the stop back in at this point.. I know... I am YOu may see it for sale shortly..

Originally Posted by nuke61

Go back and look at the install pics on page 1... the ECS designed clutch travel limiter has an adjustable screw with a flat washer top that depresses the starter switch. One adjustment is for how far off the floor it stops, and the other is for when it contacts the switch. Kudos to ECS for the design, Carolina Clutch for selling it, and to Chuck for brining it to our attention and the great write-up

Originally Posted by tstar

OK that makes sense now.... kinda!

Anyone think of a DIY one of these yet other then a block of wood? $75 seems steep for a drilled and tapped block of aluminum.

Originally Posted by nuke61

Well, I'm thinking of putting in a block of wood.

Originally Posted by chuckster

As you know I have found a clutch pedal stop that is custom made by Carolina Clutch.. I have researched and found that overextending the clutch also contributes to sticky pedal.. My main goal was to help eliminate the sticky pedal syndrome and secondarily increase my shifting speed.

http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowItem/110183.aspx

I finally installed and tested it. After looking at it I decided to mod it before installing it... The bolt with the big washer on it is to depress the starter interlock switch and the unheaded bolt is used as the actual STOP. I felt the unheaded bolt was a bit too pointy and could cause a wear point on the floorboard...

Original Stop


I went to Home Depot and replaced it with a 3" Carriage Bolt.. The letters CBH. It is just a bit longer than the original stud and offers more surface area for the stop..





Now to install it.. You need to cut the tab off the side of the clutch pedal to mount this stop.. I used my mini hacksaw. The Tab was only intended to press the start interlock switch.. I found out even without the tab it still works fine..





After it is off, I filed the rough edges smooth..



Here is a pic of it in the mounted position


Here is a pic of it in the fully depressed position. You can clearly see where the stop bolt makes contact with the steel plate on the floor..



I adjusted it so that when the clutch pedal is bottomed out all I need to do is lift about 1/2" and it just starts to engage. I will make this a tad bit more for safety..

The Test Drive... Takes a second to get used to it.. but I love the feel! I noticed the car shifts much smoother now.. Not as jerky when there was 3 extra inches of pedal play before engagement.. And Quick shifting is like lightning now.. Scary fast.. I need get used to it...

I spoke to the owner of Carolina Clutch for quite a while on the phone.. He explained that this is mainly to keep from overextending the clutch. This contributes GREATLY to the Sticky Pedal syndrome as once you are past the release point that centrifical force can keep it there..