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Does the Buick OPS have the same electrical connections as the original? I did not see in the thread where anyone mentioned any differences, but I figured I should ask rather than assuming the Buick one plugs right into the original harness.
Does the Buick OPS have the same electrical connections as the original? I did not see in the thread where anyone mentioned any differences, but I figured I should ask rather than assuming the Buick one plugs right into the original harness.
I believe it plugs in ok.. but, the threads are different. OR you get the brass bodied OPS you should be fine... and DO the relocate if you don't want to do it again.
See post #29 and #270 which is page 14 of this thread...
Last edited by 73Corvette; 04-21-2015 at 03:13 PM.
Does the Buick OPS have the same electrical connections as the original? I did not see in the thread where anyone mentioned any differences, but I figured I should ask rather than assuming the Buick one plugs right into the original harness.
yes, installed mine 4 years ago, still works great!
EDIT Go to post #29 and #270 for the latest and greatest Buick Sensor Mod. EDIT
Getting ta ta ta tired of pulling the intake to change the oil pressure sending unit----on a weekly basis. Yes, I'm torquing it properly.
Until such a time that GM, Standard, BorgWarner, Niehoff, Wells, or whoever else sells these things (all evidently made at the same manufacturer in Mexico), I'm going to do this.
Basically I'm going to relocate the sensor up top next to the left hand fuel rail-----a section of manual oil pressure gauge hose plumbed in to get there. You can buy this hose and fittings as a kit. Each end of the plastic hose has compression fittings ending up with 1/8th inch pipe thread ends.
I took one of the old sensors, drilled the center out and tapped it to 1/8th inch NPT. Then screwed in the hose's fitting. Very easy---looks good:
BTW did you ever see how frigging COMPLEX GM made this sensor? Inside there is a host of surface mount resistors, capacitors, and even an IC! Come on!
OK, ok the engine side is taken care of. Now for the sensor itself. I started out with a round chunk of billet. Hexed off the outside. Drilled one end and tapped it to the sensor's size---M16 X 1.5. Ok I cheated---I used a 5/8 -18 NF which is real close----and so is a 3/8 -18 NPT. And of course on the other end I tapped it to 1/8th inch NPT. Here's a pic of it---you'll also see it in the first picture also with the hose fitting installed. You'll see the plastic pressure hose looping down and around---leading to the back of the block.
And here is a shot of it in place. The connector reaches fine. I plan on securing it to the fuel rail and/or bracket.
Now if I had access to a CNC I'd probably make up a bunch of these----but my lathe is one step up from a wood working unit and my mill isn't much better. Took me half a day. Just how did we churn out thousands of P-38's back in the day before CNC---or even digital readouts??
Anyway I think there is a solution to making the adapter. And that would be the oil pressure sender from a 99 and newer Park Avenue. Looks to be the same unit with the same connector-----only it has what appears to be a 1/4th inch NPT end. In that case all you would need would be a double female to plumb to the oil line. I was just too cheap to order one of these sending units to find out.
Anyway this is my story and I'm sticking to it!
I've replaced mine on my 2003 zo 6 with some patience ,long angled needle nose ,and a socket i got on amazon ,15 minutes it was done ,theres also a UTUBE video of them doing it.
I can't tell you how many times I've had that plastic hose break or melt in my cars since '66...that being said, a better alternative to a nice modification might be some -3 or -4 braided steel line with correct AN fittings/ends.
Just changed my oil pressure sensor using the 'cutting hole method' and it worked worked like a charm. My sensor was stuck on 80/130. My hole was not very neat or nice but its not visible Thank you to the person who posted their directions (Todd157k)!
now...does anyone have any info on taking apart the auto dim mirror (the interior one)....I have it off the car but don't want to break it....
I think I came up with a less expensive remote sensor kit. Here is what I will use on my new to me 03.
I just took my time got the proper socket and took it out ,and replaced it ,patience my son it can be done.
From Summit Racing:
I drilled out the base of a failed switch and tapped it to 1/8" NPT so everything goes together with only one "adapter" which is the 1/8" NPT Coupler listed above.
Should have this installed next week depending on shipping from Summit.
I just bought the proper oil pressure sender socket on amazon ,and along wit a 6" extension and a small mirror ,had it changed in 20 minutes ,believe me it can be done. PATIENCE is all it takes
I just bought the proper oil pressure sender socket on amazon ,and along wit a 6" extension and a small mirror ,had it changed in 20 minutes ,believe me it can be done. PATIENCE is all it takes
Yes, I have also done that.......but by the FOURTH time it gets really OLD.
I noticed mine is reading 29psi all the time now. Forget what they read when the sensor fails. But assuming I have an issue with mine. I bought a lifetime warranty one from O'Reileys so will simply swap it for a new one and hope it fixes the problem.
And have seen questions on where to mount the sensors. I had it out of site along the firewall above the brake booster. I noticed it caused noise in the cabin by vibrating against the firewall, so moved it on top of the fuel lines.
I'm confused by the last part in this list. It's a 16x1.5 female end, but the PS421 Buick replacement sensor (LINK) is M10x1.25. Am I missing something?
Not for sure as I might have even used the one that was in there and it was working fine.
I installed the relocation kit when I did my Fast 92 intake upgrade, figured it would be a good time as I was right there.
That was probably 5 or 6 years ago and have never had any issues.
I wrote Standard Products regarding the differences between PS308 & PS308T. Here's their response:
PS308 is our first” line while T-Series is a competitively priced line which will perform well. It’s hard to give a line by line comparison of the blueprints,( On this particular sensor both housings are aluminum.) In general, we use better quality materials in our first line vs. our Economy “T Series” products. They’re made to last longer via better materials and manufacturing processes. Our first line also carries a more comprehensive warranty.
Using a bunch of tips in this thread, I think I've come up with the least expensive solution, implementing the Buick sensor & braided hose relocation method...
Ordered on Summit:
AutoMeter ATM-2268 (1/8 in. NPT Female to 16mm x 1.5 Male)
Vibrant VPE-10240 (45 Degree, Male 1/8 in. NPT to Male -3 AN, Aluminum, Black)
Russell RUS-658450 (Stainless Steel Braided Hose, -3 AN Female End, Red, -4 AN Female End, Red, 18 in. Length)
Aeroquip AER-FBM2723 (Straight, -4 AN Male to 1/4 in. NPT Female, Steel)
Summit cost: $58.53 (w/ tax + shipping)
Note: cost varies for braided hose. I opted for a longer hose with red fittings that I can receive ASAP for a few bucks more than a 12" hose with blue fittings.
Ordered on RockAuto:
AC Delco 12677837 (Buick sensor w/ female 1/4" NPT thread)
Rock Auto cost: $38.20 (w/ tax + shipping & 5% off promo code)
04-21-2015, 03:00 PM
100% !! 
Thank you to the person who posted their directions (Todd157k)!
