Automatic Shifter Failure
05-26-2007, 06:49 PM
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Automatic Shifter Failure
Ok gang...heres a bad problem...on my 2000 Coupe, automatic transmission I went to go somewhere today and as I tried shifting out of park I heard a snap in the console and shazam...the car would not shift. After taking the whole center console apart and removing the shifter assembly I found that where the shift linkage connects to the shifter...at the bottom of the rubber boot where the linkage ties into the car for support...the plastic housing broke...causing the shift linkage to now bend and not be able to properly apply pressure on the cable to shift the transmission. With my face up near the AC control looking back into the hole I can see the parts but cannot get to them to fix...Any ideas from anyone or anyone else ever have this happen??? Will I need to go from the bottom of the car up? The tranny won't need pulled will it??? How do I get the car towed out of the garage if I can shift it out of park? Really freaking out here basically and need to know what i'm up against if anyone knows. Thanks
Kevin
Kevin
05-27-2007, 04:43 PM
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Burning Brakes
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well I doubt you'll need to pull the trans as it is in the rear of the car , they may have to pull the tourque tube and drop the exhaust ... my friends car was stuck in park in his garage.. we jacked up all the wheels and put dollys under the tires... to roll it out ... sorry dude that sucks./.. sounds like a cheap part that will be very labor intensive good luck
05-27-2007, 11:11 PM
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Ok...good news...I went ahead and tried reassembling the shifting mechanisn despite the broken piece in the linkage down in the tunnel...The car seems to shift from P to N - R - D.......I don't dare shift lower than drive since I got the whole console and all finally put together since FEB...So far the car has shifted fine and goes back into P as normal. Still wouldn't mind suggestions and hope it continues to work and doesn't strand me!
Kevin
Kevin
05-28-2007, 09:33 AM
#6
Le Mans Master
I don't think this is an uncommon problem on the these cables. A friend had one snap on an '03 anniversary convertible with about 100 miles on it. I recommend you get a new cable. As I recall, it is a pain to replace it. He had to drop the exhaust and the tunnel plate at least. I can't recall if he had to drop the torque tube.
If you'd like his number, PM me and I'll put you in contact with him.
Good luck... GUSTO
If you'd like his number, PM me and I'll put you in contact with him.
Good luck... GUSTO
05-29-2007, 12:38 PM
#7
Safety Car
The exhaust and tunnel plate need to be removed. Heat the three nuts on each exhaust manifold so the studs don't shear and use caution when connecting the cable end to the shifter. Lifting the shifter more than about 1/3" when connecting the new cable will crack it in the same place. Also synchronize the shifter to the transmission at the transmission end of the cable then lock it in place with the plastic clip.
05-29-2007, 12:57 PM
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Yes all good tips! Of which I now know...it also really helps to have it all shifted to one on the selector...gives you just a bit more leeway...but for now the car is doing fine so until I can pay to have this done i'll leave it. Thanks!
K
K
10-12-2007, 07:35 PM
#10
Race Director
Saw an assembly for sale on ebay the other day.
You will probably have to lower the rear craddle to get the old cable out and the new one in.
You will probably have to lower the rear craddle to get the old cable out and the new one in.
Last edited by ajg1915; 11-16-2007 at 06:53 AM.
11-16-2007, 03:47 AM
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Me TOO
Well I pulled up to a hotel out of town and I got my room and went to drive off and bam...The same thing. The shifter made it into R and the shifter went slack. I drove the car in R to my parking spot and Now I am in here researching. Thank god there's a Chevy dealer right next door that can hopefully help me with not too much pain at the wallet.
I will find out tommorow and post more info!!
I will find out tommorow and post more info!!
11-17-2007, 05:44 PM
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Next day
Well I contacted the dealership the next day and they sent a tech over to see if he could get it to the shop while the wrecker was out.
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
11-17-2007, 05:54 PM
#14
Just went throught this a few weeks ago. My shift cable detached at the tranny end, but the connection is the same type as at the shifter end. I jacked up the car and was able to find a temporary fix, enough to shift and get out of the garage and to the repair shop. I bought the new cable at a local dealer (no time to mess with shipping from Gene Culley) which cost around $90. The shop took around 2 hours to swap in the new cable and charged me $150. So, total bill was around $250. Big pain in the ars, but it is probably worth fixing it the right way to avoid getting stranded sometime down the road.
11-17-2007, 05:58 PM
#15
Race Director
Well I contacted the dealership the next day and they sent a tech over to see if he could get it to the shop while the wrecker was out.
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
Yeah, you would have to at a minimum lower the whole rear drive train to get at the tunnel area where the cable is hooked on.
11-17-2007, 06:30 PM
#16
MFIC
Document ID# 102112
1997 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shift Cable Replacement
Removal Procedure
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. If replacing a damaged cable, be sure that BOTH the floor shift control and the transmission are in NEUTRAL.
Remove the intermediate exhaust pipes. Refer to Intermediate Pipe in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel in Propeller Shaft.
Unsnap the shift control cable end clip from the floor shift control arm stud. Use care to not suddenly jerk the shift control cable, the cable is extremely rigid.
Remove the shift control cable from the driveline tunnel bracket.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, pry the cable retaining staple clip from the cable.
Depress the cable retaining tabs.
While depressing the tabs, push the tabs through the hole in the driveline tunnel bracket.
Slide the cable out of the bracket slot.
Remove the nuts retaining the shift control cable bracket to the transmission.
Reposition the cable and cable bracket away from the studs.
Unsnap the shift control cable end clip from the transmission shift lever stud. Use care to not suddenly jerk the shift control cable, the cable is extremely rigid.
Remove the shift control cable and bracket.
Remove the shift control cable bracket from the shift control cable, if necessary.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, pry the shift cable retaining staple clip from the cable.
Depress the shift cable retaining tabs.
While depressing the tabs, push the tabs through the hole in the shift cable bracket.
Slide the cable out of the bracket slot.
Installation Procedure
Install the shift control cable bracket to the shift control cable, if removed.
Slide the smaller diameter portion of the cable into the slot in the shift cable bracket.
Push the tabs through the hole in the bracket to lock the cable in place.
Insert the shift cable retaining staple clip between the shift cable retaining tabs. Press the staple clip firmly to secure.
Position and install the shift control cable to the driveline tunnel bracket.
Slide the smaller diameter portion of the shift cable into the slot in the driveline tunnel bracket.
Push the shift cable retaining tabs through the hole in the bracket to lock the cable in place.
Insert the shift cable retaining staple clip between the shift cable retaining tabs. Press the staple clip firmly to secure.
Press to snap and secure the shift control cable end clip to the floor shift control arm stud.
Install the shift control cable bracket to the transmission studs.
Install the nuts retaining the shift control cable bracket to the transmission. Tighten
Tighten the transmission shift control cable bracket retaining nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Check to be sure that BOTH the floor shift control and the transmission are in NEUTRAL.
Press to snap and secure the shift control cable end clip onto the transmission shift lever stud.
If installing a NEW transmission shift control cable, remove the shipping guard from the adjuster lock.
If installing a NEW transmission shift control cable, depress the shift control cable adjuster lock.
Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel in Propeller Shaft.
Install the intermediate exhaust pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe in Engine Exhaust.
Lower the vehicle.
1997 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Shift Cable Replacement
Removal Procedure
Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL. If replacing a damaged cable, be sure that BOTH the floor shift control and the transmission are in NEUTRAL.
Remove the intermediate exhaust pipes. Refer to Intermediate Pipe in Engine Exhaust.
Remove the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel in Propeller Shaft.
Unsnap the shift control cable end clip from the floor shift control arm stud. Use care to not suddenly jerk the shift control cable, the cable is extremely rigid.
Remove the shift control cable from the driveline tunnel bracket.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, pry the cable retaining staple clip from the cable.
Depress the cable retaining tabs.
While depressing the tabs, push the tabs through the hole in the driveline tunnel bracket.
Slide the cable out of the bracket slot.
Remove the nuts retaining the shift control cable bracket to the transmission.
Reposition the cable and cable bracket away from the studs.
Unsnap the shift control cable end clip from the transmission shift lever stud. Use care to not suddenly jerk the shift control cable, the cable is extremely rigid.
Remove the shift control cable and bracket.
Remove the shift control cable bracket from the shift control cable, if necessary.
Using a flat bladed screwdriver, pry the shift cable retaining staple clip from the cable.
Depress the shift cable retaining tabs.
While depressing the tabs, push the tabs through the hole in the shift cable bracket.
Slide the cable out of the bracket slot.
Installation Procedure
Install the shift control cable bracket to the shift control cable, if removed.
Slide the smaller diameter portion of the cable into the slot in the shift cable bracket.
Push the tabs through the hole in the bracket to lock the cable in place.
Insert the shift cable retaining staple clip between the shift cable retaining tabs. Press the staple clip firmly to secure.
Position and install the shift control cable to the driveline tunnel bracket.
Slide the smaller diameter portion of the shift cable into the slot in the driveline tunnel bracket.
Push the shift cable retaining tabs through the hole in the bracket to lock the cable in place.
Insert the shift cable retaining staple clip between the shift cable retaining tabs. Press the staple clip firmly to secure.
Press to snap and secure the shift control cable end clip to the floor shift control arm stud.
Install the shift control cable bracket to the transmission studs.
Install the nuts retaining the shift control cable bracket to the transmission. Tighten
Tighten the transmission shift control cable bracket retaining nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
Notice
Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Check to be sure that BOTH the floor shift control and the transmission are in NEUTRAL.
Press to snap and secure the shift control cable end clip onto the transmission shift lever stud.
If installing a NEW transmission shift control cable, remove the shipping guard from the adjuster lock.
If installing a NEW transmission shift control cable, depress the shift control cable adjuster lock.
Install the driveline tunnel closeout panel. Refer to Driveline Tunnel Closeout Panel in Propeller Shaft.
Install the intermediate exhaust pipe. Refer to Intermediate Pipe in Engine Exhaust.
Lower the vehicle.
Well I contacted the dealership the next day and they sent a tech over to see if he could get it to the shop while the wrecker was out.
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
He felt the shifter and agreed that something must have come loose. He then took apart the console and shroud that goes around the shifter and radio. After removing these he removed the shifter and when we pulled it up the linkage at the bottom was not attached to the shifter. He told me we could put it back on a a temporary fix or take it to the shop. Well I opted for the temp fix but I plan on fixing it properly in the future at my home. It appeared that the end of the linkage that fits on the ball at the end of the the shifter rod was possibly cracked on the inside and allowed it to seperate.
The tech actually admitted that I could probably zip tie or jb well the two together and I prob would not have any more problems but I don't know if it would cause probs later on or not.
Ever since we put the linkage back on the **** it has not come off but I have taken it very easy on it. NO more manual downshifting!!! But ohwell. I hear the replacing the cable is quite a job...Any info??
11-18-2007, 01:27 AM
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Thank you guys so much for the quick reply's!!! After reading that list of all the things I need to remove just to install the cable I better leave it to the professionals...but it would be a good time to get familiar with the bottom of that C5 that I love so much
11-18-2007, 03:10 PM
#18
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****er cable
Now the next question....Does anyone know where I could find a SHIFTER cable besides at the dealer??? I have looked around a little with no success....Any ideas would be appreciated...Thanks to all that have helped me with this bump in the road
11-20-2007, 09:17 AM
#19
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11-20-2007, 01:48 PM
#20
Le Mans Master
I've replaced the cable on my 04 and you don't have to lower the drivetrain, the hard part is hooking the cable into the retaining bracket up by the shifter but it can be done by reaching down thru the hole.